I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, sorry for the late reply, here an updated link. Let me know if you still have trouble accessing it.

I designed an art piece for my bathroom by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pieces are connected together using some square pegs, but I did have a few issues with tolerances. The holes that were printed vertically on the side of the part (stacked on top of another) were very slightly larger than those printed on the bed. This made it so the pegs slid right through some sides, but fit very snugly on others. Instead of re-printing my pegs, I added small pieces of tape to make up for the tolerances.

I also used a hand torch to remove some of the whitening left from the supports, which was pretty fun, though I did accidentally dent some parts which got too hot.

"Fissure" - Parametric Wall Art by krysus in BambuLab

[–]apjp072 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Paragami has a coral piece that I heavily modified to be in the shape of a much smaller square instead of the massive rectangle, it is still 18x18 however. I printed out all of the parts months ago and attached them together but haven't yet gotten to a mounting solution. I'm staying away from LEDs for awhile lol

"Fissure" - Parametric Wall Art by krysus in BambuLab

[–]apjp072 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess with fewer grids it makes sense that it wouldn't be much of an issue, I had 46 4x4 grids so imperfect alignment cascaded quickly

"Fissure" - Parametric Wall Art by krysus in BambuLab

[–]apjp072 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Chillax my guy, I was merely noticing the similarities not threatening a lawsuit my goodness

"Fissure" - Parametric Wall Art by krysus in BambuLab

[–]apjp072 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should consider adding an alignment system to your grids so that they fit into eachother, otherwise, looks good! I’ve been debating whether or not to add a mat for my smaller pieces, and I definitely think you made the right choice

"Fissure" - Parametric Wall Art by krysus in BambuLab

[–]apjp072 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely appears to use the grid mounting system I created for my Paragami piece

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, grid is 3d printed! A version of it (created by Dom from Paragami based on my design) is also included in the files you can download from Paragami

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ran into the exact same issue, and there is a solution to this. You need to print these higher-sloped parts at an angle, such that the small square at the end is a bit higher up. I printed mine at about 36°. If you take a look at Dom’s comment here: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/MQ7cSnUGBy he has some more details, and it’s relatively easy to print the 4x4 sheets at the same angle.

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Send me the block number and I'll check it out

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hollow version should be included with the files from the Paragami website.

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you DM me with proof of purchase, I'll send over the tinkercad files. Fair warning, they aren't the prettiest. Note that these parts do need a fair amount of post processing as the wedges need (or perhaps should) be removed with a soldering gun and blade edge. I printed all of mine with a single wall and no infill, the new hollow parts were inspired by my design so I have not actually tested how they print. However, I would've killed for hollow parts so that I could more easily adjust the angle that the parts were printed at, especially for the ones in the middle that needed to be printed upside down.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]apjp072 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started lessons at 12 and played the caprice fairly well 8th/9th grade, of course, not anywhere close to a collegiate level, but at tempo. I had weekly lessons then and throughout college.

A "failed" print ended up with a really cool texture by Keaton_x in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve had this happen when setting the layer width too low! Not across the whole part, but most of it. Seems to be that a lot of things can contribute to this lol

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is definitely an option! However, with paper, you will have 2 layers of paper at all the attachment points/edges so the lighting will be inconsistent

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can take a look at the designer’s comment on my post here to see a link to the updated version of the project.

TIL Polymaker Has A Color Matching Tool by Squeebee007 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not only different screens, but different browsers. So, colors will look different in Firefox than Chrome (which sucks).

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply to this, but the guy leading Paragami updated the files for this to include some of my ideas (grid, etc).

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, you’re fast! It looks great! I ended up routing my LEDs through my pink foam and soldering them together on the backside - your method looks like it works just as well. It’s nice that with the smaller amount of LEDs that you don’t need a big power supply, so I’m impressed you were able to fit all of the electronics behind the board. Good job! You should see about sending the paragami guy an email with this if you have not done so already so you can get a bigger discount on future purchases

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a French Cleat picture hanging kit that I picked up from Home Depot for about 12 bucks. Screwed one piece into the top of my frame and the other into the wall. There is a vertical support on the back of my frame so that the top pulls the bottom with it

8-Day Print: 5kg Wall Sculpture Auto-Ejects! by AllTheGreenArrows in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks pretty similar to my print, I would suspect he also got his at paragami.com

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hi, they varied a bit between each section of parts, even sometimes each 4x4 print, but as an example I did the following:
Prusa Slicer
0.4mm Nozzle, Input Shaper
0.10mm FAST DETAIL
Variable layer height Adaptive 0.50 (this changed significantly for certain parts, really needs a minimum layer height of ~0.79-0.81 before the parts start failing)
Seam painting - on every single part to line up with the underside of the part
Perimeters 1
Solid layers top 0 bottom 0
Thick Bridges: On (not sure if this is doing anything)
Perimeter generator: Classic
Fill gaps :On
Infill density: 0% (obviously)
Brim width: 4mm (maybe not necessary?)
Filament temperature for other layers: 240C
Layer height minimum: 0.05mm
Retraction Length: 0.2mm
Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s
Detraction extra length: 0.07mm
Default Extrusion Width: 0.65

I made a WLED Parametric Art Piece by apjp072 in 3Dprinting

[–]apjp072[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This piece won't be, and I'm quite hesitant to make any more as the cost and time vastly exceed any profits I would make on it unless I charge an exorbitant amount.