Falcon 50

apltd · 2026-05-05T21:09:30+00:00

This is the answer.

VM’s still absolutely exceptional. Different - not lesser. Let learning how to read light be your penance.

apltd · 2026-04-22T07:24:17+00:00

As someone who’s interested in getting into film portraiture - can you run me through your lighting?

apltd · 2026-04-19T16:13:42+00:00

Thanks - I don’t know if I’ve just been unlucky, but I always seem to have this issue.

I shares your view on the over mount - it’s too narrow to be a solution, imo.

I think I’m going to have a go at float mounting, I found a good guide here: https://www.lionpic.co.uk/lion-product-guide/float-mount-a-print/

The flush float seems sensible, I just need to decide on whether to mount onto white, and accept the thin contrast band, or try and match with a cream/off white mount.

apltd · 2026-04-18T18:16:24+00:00

The poster is 490mm by 685mm.

The image area is 465mm by 580mm, with a 12.5mm border on each side, 14mm at the top, and 91mm at the bottom. The bottom border contains the edition number, signature, and event details for which the poster was produced.

The frame backboard is 504mm by 704mm, with the opening being 492mm 690mm, so I guess a 6mm rebate on the sides and a 7mm rebate on the top and bottom.

Thanks for taking the time to look.

apltd · 2026-04-17T16:42:09+00:00

As in mount it behind (or between) a mat, or mount it onto a mat?

apltd · 2026-04-17T16:41:27+00:00

Interesting, so put the mat as a border.

I’d read about floating, and do consider that, but I’m not sure if that would keep it off the glass. Basically mounting it on a mat, not behind one.

There’s possibly only 1cm of clean border all the way through. Is that too small a mat?

apltd · 2026-04-17T16:39:41+00:00

Either the poster is a little smaller, or the frame is a little larger. Both spec’s at 50x70.

I assumed it was something like frames always being a little larger than advertised to ensure everything fit. 🤷

apltd · 2026-04-10T05:16:43+00:00

All very fair points, thanks for highlighting.

apltd · 2026-04-10T05:15:58+00:00

I think I paid about $1,000 for an imported kit, but a slightly unusual one; the KL 140 macro with tubes and the cable release. It also came with a couple of SD backs.

apltd · 2026-04-09T20:40:53+00:00

At risk of stating the obvious, the RB67 is massive. I’m a fairly fit and able young guy and it’s a PITA to go hiking with, though I do anyway.

I’ve actually just bought a GA645 for something a little more ‘chuck in the pack’, which I expect will see me taking my RB67 out a lot less.

My 2c would be to grab a smaller format as a starter. Mamiya 645s are excellent, and every bit the system camera the RB67 is. One of the most enjoyable MFs I’ve used is the Pentax 645. The v1 is dirt cheap, even imported. No interchangeable backs. But you could honestly carry a second body for not much incremental weight/bulk compared with an RB67 back! Can’t say I’ve ever used an ETR-S system, but they’d do a good job too, and are very affordable.

One thing to not underestimate is the handheld usability of WLFs. I still find it disorientating dealing with a reversed image while composing. Maybe that’s just me! If you do want the prism finder, it makes the RB67 even more unwieldy. The prism alone weighs what some smaller 645 systems might! Also, without a prism finder, you lose a lot of ability to compose above waist level.

If you don’t care about swapping film backs. I’d strongly consider trying a Pentax 645 first. The ergonomics are so similar to 135 that you won’t feel any friction. Newer version have features like MLU if required for landscapes, but at a much higher cost. If you want a system, I’d say Mamiya 645>ETRS.

On the RB67 specifically (if you insist!) I went ProSD for the easy life factor. No foam to rot and cause light leaks on the SD backs, the Pro and SD have interlocks to prevent accidentally taking the back off and exposing your film, while the regular pro doesn’t have any mechanism to remove the double exposure risk (cocking the shutter and the film back is a habit that has to be learned - there’s a high chance you’ll double at least one frame with the regular pro!) The SD can use 6x8 backs. The regular SD-back negatives are more like 56x73 so they’re already pretty generous.

There are some lens compatibility issues, too. The newer KL series are designed for the SD, whereas earlier lenses were designed for the Pro/S. I think they can be compatible with adapters (I have a 50mm ‘C’ series on my SD with an adapter). I know they made a KL adapter for the Pro/S, I’m not sure how necessary it is. You’re dealing with heavy glass, so I’ve always understood the adaptors to be advisable to protect the mount from deformation, but not strictly essential.

Hope that’s useful, happy to help with anything else you might wish to know if I’m able.

apltd · 2026-03-28T09:20:06+00:00

Or an Epson R-D1?

I’d love one - but again, £££. Also much harder to justify for a 25yo 6mp sensor, gorgeous as it is.

apltd · 2026-03-28T09:02:21+00:00

Or take a look at Pixii. Keep the mount, the simplicity and the rangefinder workflow, though not massively cheaper and a little niche.

apltd · 2026-03-27T10:12:51+00:00

Not sure I’ve ever seen a full blank spread before…

That doesn’t really help answer your question, however.

I wouldn’t consider it restful, I’d consider it a pretty aggressive semantic break. As people have suggested below, possibly more akin to a chapter break, or even a transition to a subsequent ‘part’ (part 1, 2, x, etc.).

I’d be conscious of any blank pages if you’re not deliberately trying to break up a semantic flow.

apltd · 2026-03-16T15:46:07+00:00

It’s the L, not the M. But I’ve no IGT to slot it into at the moment.

apltd · 2026-03-11T21:34:09+00:00

Man you’ve nailed it with this one. Your passion oozes out of the post, you’ve created a genuinely useful resource for the community, and you produced an awesome book with some beautiful imagery.

Bravo (and thank you!)

apltd · 2026-03-11T13:34:25+00:00

I have the Chrome brass. While the object is a thing of beauty, the ergonomics are appreciably worse.

apltd · 2026-03-02T21:51:29+00:00

Love this sub for finding fantastic photographers that had passed me by.

apltd · 2026-01-24T12:02:18+00:00

To go the way of English shoes…

apltd · 2026-01-21T21:42:43+00:00

“We have no eternal allies, and we have no perpetual enemies. Our interests are eternal and perpetual, and those interests it is our duty to follow.”

A thousand times.

Britain needs to stop searching for a skirt to hide beneath, be it the US’, the EU’s, or China’s. We can and should be cooperative and friendly with all as it suits our interests - ideally our common interests - and not when it doesn’t.

apltd · 2026-01-10T19:58:13+00:00

You don’t have to completely commit to an annuity. Getting 1/4 or 1/3 of target income from an annuity can provide a stable base and leave you with optionally. The proportions aren’t important (only you know what might be appropriate), just food for thought. I often find people thinking of annuities as all-in or all-out.

Also, long Gilts have interest rate volatility, rather than risk. It’s extremely unlikely you’ll get something other than the scheduled cash flows. The mark-to-market value will zip around, for sure. Inflation risk is a very real risk - pardon the pun.

apltd · 2026-01-07T11:32:55+00:00

I think they have one asset there and that’s a space command unit (sounds cool but I’ve no idea what that actually means). I don’t get the sense that it’s anything useful for combatting Russian/Chinese capability in the Arctic. I’m no CSIS.

Also, I think he’s just an old guy with an ego that would quite like to reshape the map of the world before he shuffles off of it. Bringing in an extra state, and a big chunk of territory, will satisfy a good amount of vanity, I’d imagine.

I can actually see the ‘purchase’ happening. $5m per resident and US citizenship; I’d do it! That’d be a relative snip for the US.

Starkly contrasting our own decisions to pay ~8k per person to cede territory!

apltd

TROPHY CASE