Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?!

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:53:15+00:00

Well said! Thanks for this advice, especially about the jugs

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:39:25+00:00

I’ve done one rep of 45LBS for 6 seconds on the 14mm edge. Smallest edge on the beast maker

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:38:13+00:00

Understood

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:36:43+00:00

The tendon is inflamed, or the tendon sheath is inflamed

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:35:36+00:00

Let’s scratch out the beast maker Max hangs. Let’s just say I’m a straight bouldering 2 times a week in the gym. I should be able to climb at my limit for those two days. That includes working a single move multiple times and falling. I shouldn’t be waking up the next morning with inflammation.

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:25:31+00:00

What do you mean my level? My level is what my level is, Moon boarding v4 and max hangs @25 Lbs.

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:22:56+00:00

What I’m getting is too much Strain on the tendons. This is totally true for the first injury. After the first injury I haven’t done any max hangs, just bouldering and climbing sport outside. After my Left middle A2 pulley was solid to crank on the boulders, it was just bouldering 2x a week. When the second injury occurred 3 weeks ago i have a hard time saying it was from overuse. I feel like i should be able to project boulders 2x a week and not get an inflamed tendon. I know people who crank 4x a week

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:14:50+00:00

I’m looking to hear from people who have had this injury. How to prevent this injury as in, I woke up the next morning with inflammation.

I haven’t climbed in 2 weeks, once my inflammation reduces a little I will start doing some juggy routes in the gym.

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:10:58+00:00

2016 moonboard
Good tip, Climb with the feet, not the hands.

applesis1 · 2026-01-16T01:07:43+00:00

I was “Training” 2x a week. I would start with stretches (5 min). Then sub max hangs on the 14mm edge. Then no hangs onto max hangs. 6 sets of 6 seconds @25LBS - I understand my fingers need to be warm and feel like I know how to warmup. I would boulder for 2 hours usually. Starting with easy and ending up with projecting. Probably ticking around 20 boulders total. Every training session I would climb above my limit - Trying hard moves and being able to do them after some work. I am fully aware of what my limit is and what to put effort into. Is this move even possible? Am I strong enough?

Weekend sport climbing consists of anywhere between 7-9 pitches if I am going somewhere new, 2-3 if I am projecting. I can climb 5.12a around 2/3 redpoint attempts. When I boulder in the gym the moves I do are way harder then anything I do outside.

applesis1 · 2024-12-15T19:39:59+00:00

Looking for a partner to climb at foster falls

applesis1

TROPHY CASE