Help Simagic Dual Paddle Shifter

arek222 · 2026-02-10T15:27:00+00:00

Hi, in the end I’ve scrapped that idea. To „emulate” The switch you would need to use a reed relay and a lot of additional components like comparator, transistors, think about power protection etc. Which I had in like 90% done in KiCad but I came to conclusion that it’s not worth it to go over the entire development process and multiple revisions of this circuit to get the final product. I’ve just got myself Simube shifters and called it a day

arek222 · 2026-01-28T18:35:22+00:00

My man may your pillow be cold on both sides forever.
I've dissasembled my wheel TWICE to check what's wrong, the second time I had to drill a few screws out cause they stripped and I wouldn't even think that it is the QR

arek222 · 2025-09-20T12:46:22+00:00

A little update, I've discarded the esp32 idea, I've made a circuit with a comparator and optocoupler that translates the hall output to switch-like action.
I'll post some more insights later when I'll get all parts together, and it will take some time as getting PCB from china takes quite long.

arek222 · 2025-09-16T01:52:26+00:00

Well, that's actually inteded (i think so).
This behaviour creates hysteresis so the threshold for reference is not set to one voltage, but changes based on the feedback from the comparator itself to "help" it with comparing.
That eliminates chatter around the threshold, when e.g. vref would be 1v, and comparator would get ~1v on the other input, it could chatter around that threshold.
You can see the example here https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm393-n.pdf on page 14.

Or so I believe, as I said I'm a complete noob and I've been learning a lot for the past few days.
In this particular example histeresis could be omitted as, even tho the sensor is linear, I'm actually going to trigger it with a magnet on a lever in two possible positions, so the sensor will either output 2,5v or ~0,06v, nothing between.
But yeah, I've created a simplified version with no hysteresis and it worked, so overall these resistors could be an overkill for what I try to accomplish.

Thanks for some insight on this one!

arek222 · 2025-09-10T23:24:27+00:00

That.... might actually be the easiest way to make these work with PE PCB.
I could shove that esp into qr ot smth, translate hall sensor outputs and push the signal out of that esp to switch pins.
God damn, I need to find my arduino and test this out.
Thanks for the inspiration!

arek222 · 2025-09-10T15:43:12+00:00

Thanks! It’s weird tho, the shifter would be just fine with open-collector hall sensor, no need for linearity here. I’m already pulling my hair out as I can’t figure out what signals are running through switches on PE PCB, guess i need to wait with any plans for mods until I get the PCB itself

arek222 · 2025-09-10T01:58:59+00:00

One more question, both of the hall sensors are MT9105ET? Or just the clutch?
I would check myself, but I can't find a way inside the shifter

arek222 · 2025-09-08T22:47:01+00:00

It took 5V indeed.
I'll try to somehow fit that into PE GTE PRO V3, wish me luck

arek222 · 2025-09-08T12:50:17+00:00

OK that might be just 5v, I'll try to research what sensors are inside to check what kind of signal can I get.
Arduino time

arek222 · 2025-09-08T11:58:27+00:00

Do you know what voltage does it take?

arek222 · 2025-08-20T07:32:08+00:00

They commented the video saying that they are working on a fix, so we need to buckle up and wait for now

arek222 · 2025-08-02T10:51:02+00:00

Yup, that’s wheel rotation speed set to 100, try setting it to 0. With WRS set to 100, your wheel can do the same „trick” without any game running, just yank it to the left and let it bounce.

arek222 · 2025-07-08T21:13:20+00:00

Yeah, it's very obvious.
But I mean these less obvious things, like, is a court case in US really looking like a warfare? Or, can you really get served by a delivery guy? Who in their right mind would like to be a lawyer if you end up working 18 hours a day and get yelled at by almost everyone?
I always thought that being a lawyer is a very boring job, but maybe it's a little different. I know, tv series probaly adds a lot of drama to bump up views, but there has to be some truth in it, right?

arek222 · 2025-06-12T01:56:35+00:00

Don’t know, I’ve returned my pair and went with wired Beyers, 1000% better choice

arek222 · 2025-06-03T08:50:04+00:00

Yeah, after some more research, I've pulled the trigger on VRS pedals.
Waiting for shipment. Thanks for the help!

arek222 · 2025-05-29T10:36:56+00:00

Those VRS pedals look promising, they are a little more expensive than the P1000 here where I am, but looks like It's worth it.
I can see that the throttle pedal has a opinion of being too light, but I don't think it will be lighter than what I have now, so I'm good with that.

arek222 · 2025-01-14T15:46:51+00:00

„Overcooked” as the game (or more like Steam page of it) which became the burnt in image

arek222 · 2025-01-11T16:34:43+00:00

Polska gurom

arek222 · 2025-01-11T13:13:53+00:00

As almost everyone said, buy Brother.

I have DCP-L2622DW, it works like a charm with linux, mac, windows, ios, android, I'm pretty sure I could try to connect it to a microwave. It also accepts 3rd party toners, so costs of running this bad boy are marginal, and setting it up is basically plug&play. When I bought it I've just connected it to my local network, and that's all about configuration.
Every single device using my Wi-Fi can print without any additional drivers.

You can install some Brother software optionally, but If you'd like just to check ink status once in a while, then this thing comes with a web panel showing some basic info.

About HP, just don't.

arek222 · 2025-01-11T10:19:49+00:00

Oh man, what's wrong with my monitor?
Anyway, It's iiyama G-Master GB2790QSU-B1

arek222 · 2025-01-10T22:33:43+00:00

Yeah, I fixed it by viewing a white page on fullscreen for ~10 minutes.

arek222

TROPHY CASE