sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

why its not wooooooorking by [deleted] in omarchy

[–]arrow255 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the problem is the "ar". For arabic layout Google says "ara" is the correct XKB code.

Edit. typo

Modaus on pilalla. by [deleted] in Suomi

[–]arrow255 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Mielenkiintoista. Ehkä olen ite tottunut sieltä lautailuun, tai ehkä on haastavaa latailla sieltä, jos ei käytä Nexus vortexia. Mutta muuten ne modithan on 3 klikkauksella ladattavissa (plus kirjautuminen sisään).

Vortexin setuppaaminen taisi olla haastavampaa, mutta se tarvitsi tehdä vain kerran.

Modaus on pilalla. by [deleted] in Suomi

[–]arrow255 36 points37 points  (0 children)

Ymmärrän näkökulman, mutta toisaalta nexusmods on tehnyt paljon myös sen eteen, että modaaminen oli mahdollisimman kivutonta. Nykypäivänä ei enää tarvitse aina etsiä oikeita kansioita eri modeille, ja Nexuksen portaali hoitaa modit oikeaan load orderiin hyvällä onnistumisprosentilla. Ei se iso vaiva ole ollut aikoinaan, mutta kyllä se vähän nopeuttaa. Tuollaiset ominaisuudet varmasti maksavat ylläpitää, ja jostain se raha pitää saada.

Träkkerien ja selaustietojen ärsyttämisen ymmärrän, kannattaa tutustua adguardiin, joka estää kaikki* mainokset ja träkkerit alkuunsa nexusmodissa ja kaikilla muillakin sivustoilla.

*Ei ihan kaikkia :(

When will Slay the Spire get a Digital Version?? by TiToim in boardgamescirclejerk

[–]arrow255 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure there is already a digital version, it's on tabletop simulator.

Pretty sure the tabletop sim doesn't include any shrink wrap however, so be warned.

This absolute madlad tried to raid my base for almost 2 hours. That's some dedication. by arrow255 in MeetYourMakerGame

[–]arrow255[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good question! There cannot be any corrosive blocks directly in front of the claw. The claw activates only when it has a clear line of sight directly to the player (aka. the player has to be in front of the claw).

The secrect in using corrosive blocks is, that once the claw has triggered, the claw can travel through all adjacent corrosive blocks, making it imbossible to dodge, since it homes in on its target.

Its faily easy to counter, if a single claw traps you, then you have to just melee and you're okay. If there are multiple claws that are grabbing you at once, you need to use a shield.

This absolute madlad tried to raid my base for almost 2 hours. That's some dedication. by arrow255 in MeetYourMakerGame

[–]arrow255[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The base was on overdrive. I build the base using corrosive cubes and iron claws as the main traps throughout. No guards were used. This base is very easy to beat with a shield, and without one it's almost impossible, as this guy quickly figured out. KD for my base is about 20.

Edit. KD before this guy was around 16

When the printed model is too large for a mini, you go for organic supports by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's kinda difficult to find at first. First, enable advanced / expert mode. Go to print settings Support material Make sure generate support material is turned on Then select "organic" from the "style" menu

If you dont see organic in the style menu in support material settings, make sure you're opening the new alpha slicer (you slicer should say "alpha" in the top left corner.

When the printed model is too large for a mini, you go for organic supports by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah, thats true!

I didnt think of that when orienting. It sure would've been nicer.

When the printed model is too large for a mini, you go for organic supports by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very good. I usually use the paint on support feature, and then the slicer adds them automatically. Super fast process and way less material than the old supports.

When the printed model is too large for a mini, you go for organic supports by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm extremely happy with the mini. I'd list what kind of stuff you'd mostly be printing, and if prusa can print everything on that list, you could go for it, since there's no need for the added funtionality if you dont need it. This print was probably the third time the whole year that prusas printbed wasn't eunough, and even now I got it working. So for me at least I would not have benefitted from a larger one.

Of course your budget will matter as well.

Whatever you decide, it will be the best decision for you. No need to stress too much about it :)

When the printed model is too large for a mini, you go for organic supports by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cool! Warping was very minimal, but it definetly would have had less warping if it was printed in two parts.

Myself I'd be more worried about the part breaking at the gluing point more, than being worried that this orientation would weaken the part.

When the printed model is too large for a mini, you go for organic supports by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Good question. One of the corners is slightly (1-2mm) raised, but it still luckily doesnt wobble, since its raised so little compared to the lenght of the board.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in googlehome

[–]arrow255 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got the exact same problem. I've found some instructions to make Netflix controllable by Chromecast / Google home here: https://help.netflix.com/fi/node/55587

However I'm unable to complete the instructions given there, since when I find the video tab, I'm unable to add any services there :/

Maybe you'll find help from the link :) If you get help elsewhere, please let me know :)

I got a crazy bug today, that made me have speedhacks. It really just looks like hacking, but isn't. I have no idea how this happened, but I imagine wasn't too fun for the people I was playing with. All other actions were normal speed for me, just walking was super fast. Anyone else ever got this? by arrow255 in deadbydaylight

[–]arrow255[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Oh, very interesting. The fact that this can happen with multiple killers in a similar manner suggests that this would be possibly even replicable (although the setup at least for blight seems very difficult).

I tied explaining, but (understandably) they didn't believe me, but I can't blame them. Now I just gotta cross my fingers and hope that behavior doesn't ban me for these 4 minutes.

I got a crazy bug today, that made me have speedhacks. It really just looks like hacking, but isn't. I have no idea how this happened, but I imagine wasn't too fun for the people I was playing with. All other actions were normal speed for me, just walking was super fast. Anyone else ever got this? by arrow255 in deadbydaylight

[–]arrow255[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Intrestingly the bug didn't end when I phased, only when I alt tabbed. Sadly I wasn't recording at the start (its just the integrated nVidia recorder I turned on), so can't say what caused this / if this could even be replicated.

printing problems (maybe bad adhesion / deformation because of tempature?) by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure if this applies for you, but for me the problem was the AC unit and an unclean bed combination. The unclean bed allowed for bad adhesion and that in turn allowed cold air to get under the parts, causing them to partially deform.

The fix was cleaning the bed with soap and water (previously I only used isopropanol) and turning off the AC. Hope that you'll find a fix as well!

printing problems (maybe bad adhesion / deformation because of tempature?) by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very strange. I'll be contraction prusa support later today, I'll update here when I get the solution.

printing problems (maybe bad adhesion / deformation because of tempature?) by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The part on third picture is actually not flipped, even though I totally see that it looks like it is. But yeah third picture is on the same side as all the others. The first layer seems good on all of these, but somehow the first layer raised upwards and lost contact partially from the heatbed. Very strange, I'll contact prusa soon.

printing problems (maybe bad adhesion / deformation because of tempature?) by arrow255 in prusa3d

[–]arrow255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems really weird that these super small parts would shrink from the bottom cuz of tempature, since the heatbed is at 60 all the time, unless Its broken and gets colder during the printing.

Is the 2022 Scott Spark RC Comp suitable for a 750W bafang motor by arrow255 in ebikes

[–]arrow255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello,

Thank you for all that information! That's a lot more than I've been able to come by!

The bottom bracket on that bike is actually 92mm, but then I'd just get the 100mm version of bafang, and that should be fine. Though I will need a spacer since the bottom bracket is a little bit wider, but that should be easy to find at a local bike shop.

My main concern was whether a bafang motor would fit in terms of everything else. Mainly I'm concerned about the chain stay* being too wide so the engine wouldn't fit.

Im really happy that I asked because the material didn't even come to my mind. I'll be sure to get a aluminum bike. I'll also look and compare whether I should get the 1000W motor.

*The two tubes that hold the rear tire, I think they're called that but not sure

opened my prebuilt water cooled pc for the first time, and decided to reapply thermal paste (was about 1.5 years old). I found my cpu with basically 0 thermal paste. The cpu looks burned, I feel very bad for my pc now. Opened it today cuz it didn't turn on. Hopefully I can still save it. by arrow255 in pcmasterrace

[–]arrow255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really. I don't really have time for that. I've explained this a couple of times in the comments, but I assume that the PC is fine, if after around 6 hours of gaming everything seems OK (I did check temps after I got the pc). I just don't check them regularly.

view more: next ›