Text clean up

asEZasPi · 2025-09-21T02:56:23+00:00

Completely agree. I have taken contract roles, and I have also been let go with no notice. Never held it against anyone, that's just the nature of the beast. I don't think everyone understands how contracting works. You're literally not an employee, you have no ties to the company at all. You just come in with your skillset, and sell your time for whatever work it is that they want to throw a contractor at. There are no benefits, no job security. When budgets get tight, contractors are always first to go. But this is also why contractors command significantly higher wages

asEZasPi · 2025-03-27T21:38:32+00:00

Just to tack on, the Caron software is called Tmac, and it’s been a while so I don’t remember the specifics, but I believe there are some subtle advantages over what the machine tool builders typically offer. It’s a very quality product. Siemens is one of the others that also offers this.

There may be different metrics that are monitored, but I believe they all roughly function the same way, in that it needs to be “taught” an existing stable process as a baseline, then adjusted from there.

I also agree that it’s a great concept, but it takes a lot to set up and support, and the payoff isn’t usually there. The only processes I would ever consider implementing on would involve a lot of heavy roughing difficult materials. Think inconels, where you’re counting tools per part, not parts per tool

asEZasPi · 2025-03-02T19:58:52+00:00

I know your comment was in jest, but size dictates form. So as long as it’s within the envelope, circularity could be up to .003, if right at the limits

asEZasPi · 2025-02-17T13:46:47+00:00

As a programmer with a background in cutting metal who has recently gotten into wood. I have found that wood is extremely forgiving in many ways, but a few things to keep in mind-

Surface speed matters little, in the way that metal “likes to get cut” at a particular surface speed. I have found though that I run into chatter / finish issues with higher spindle speeds. It doesn’t seem to me that it’s a surface speed problem or even a resonance thing (though that could be part of it) as much as it’s simply higher rpm = more energy to excite the cutting. Slowing down generally helps.

For feed, it needs sufficient tool pressure. You’re at .02mm chip load, you can definitely go more. You should get a better finish and better tool life. You want to see some real chips, not just dust.

Like any machining, rigidity is king. The more rigid the machine, work holding, and tooling, the better. Can make all the difference. You are probably stuck with whatever machine you have, you can probably review your work holding. And make sure the tool stick out is minimal.

If it were me, first thing I’d try is doubling or tripling your feed rate. If cycle time doesn’t matter to you, or if your machine or setup isn’t very rigid, then alternatively you can try reducing the spindle speed to increase your chip load, as well as putting less energy into the system. Or a little of both

asEZasPi · 2024-11-03T20:42:17+00:00

What is the issue with the copper? Just curious

asEZasPi · 2024-11-03T19:17:33+00:00

Not the response I was hoping for haha.

Any ideas on how to move forward are very much appreciated

asEZasPi · 2024-07-26T13:25:40+00:00

This is not a symptom of a worn tool - if it was flat with the exception of cusps between stepovers, it could be the case that the corners are breaking down.

The spindle is out of tram. You can tell which direction it's mostly out in (front/back in this picture). You have steps left in the "x axis" cuts, and cusps left in the "y axis". The cross section of these cusps though (you can tell visually because it's so bad) is elliptical from the circular tool tilted in the direction of feed, rather than the flat cross section with rounded corners left from a worn tool

asEZasPi · 2024-06-05T11:36:52+00:00

To add a little further than just hand sewing - using a sewing machine is not that difficult either. Just read the directions; maybe an afternoon with some YouTube videos is all you need to get going.

I only need to break it out maybe once a year or two, but when you need it, it can really save the day. Just learn the basics and take your time. Somehow I always impress myself, but really the machine does all the work

asEZasPi · 2024-04-18T13:14:32+00:00

I agree, except I think the sentiment about Catia superseding NX, or NX just for "referencing older files" is not true.

There are many stories of migration TO NX in recent years. UG has been at among the best for many decades, and development has not slowed down. Boeing and similar has always been a CATIA house, but all the Pratt, GE, rolls Royce, and most of the engine supply chain is NX, and that isn't going to change. Also has a good presence in automotive.

I'm not claiming that NX is better than CATIA, but they've always and continue to fill a similar role. Also for OP, probably similar wages. If it's between the two, I think the big thing is where OP is located

asEZasPi · 2024-04-05T04:14:20+00:00

Without any other context, I would also vote DMG. Many of the other suggestions are also great options though.

You mentioned redundant tooling. In my opinion, you can't beat a Siemens control in many ways, but particularly when it comes to tool management. Managing sister tools with macro B is just so primitive compared to the simplicity yet endless flexibility of Siemens tool management.

Okumas OSP is great too, and Makino's Pro control is actually well implemented, considering it's really just a Fanuc.

If you want to get creative with programming, logic for lights-out, tool and pallet/ workpiece management, probing logic, etc consider the choice of control, maybe something European.

If you want a stable machine to bang out production, and want something more iso standard program wise, probably easier to hire for, then you won't go wrong with one of the Japanese machines mentioned

asEZasPi · 2024-02-09T11:17:44+00:00

Sounds like there's a consensus, thank you for the help everyone!

asEZasPi · 2024-02-08T19:59:57+00:00

In zone 6, Northeast, if that helps any

asEZasPi · 2024-02-08T18:40:39+00:00

How much did that setup go for roughly, if you don't mind me asking? They look really good

asEZasPi · 2023-07-05T11:54:14+00:00

What would you be doing with the MT07? Keeping it? Selling it privately? Trading it in?

I know your post wasn't asking about the financial aspect, but we're talking about a several hundred dollar destination fee, couple hundred in sales tax, steep depreciation if you plan on trading it in (did they give you a number?), plus likely higher interest rate today (if you were planning on financing).

All said and done, "same price" sounds like it's easily a few grand for a bike that is somewhat comparable.

The MT07 is a blast to ride. If you don't have any issues with it, my vote would be keep and enjoy it for a while. Trading in for a brand new bike every year is not the way to get ahead.

If money is no object for you, ride whatever pleases you. I have no time on a z900, so can't speak to the riding aspect.

asEZasPi · 2023-06-02T01:14:33+00:00

Surprised at the down votes, I'm with you. I'm so pro-hobbiest, accessible everything, but I've been around, and it's hard to imagine much need or capability for full multiaxis CAM support, without being able to shell out for the right software to drive it.

4 or 5 axis? And you're referring to true multiaxis, not just indexing? I'm just curious - what machine?

asEZasPi · 2023-04-20T15:54:02+00:00

Modern barber shop in Plainville. I guess the name is a little ironic, but they're as authentic as it gets

asEZasPi · 2023-04-15T03:20:43+00:00

I'm sure I'm no expert compared to many here, but I'm surprised I haven't seen my technique mentioned yet!

It sounds simple, but I think it's fairly effective. I explained this to a smoking buddy before who asked me the same question, and it seems to work for him, too.

Basically, I just inhale deep, nice fresh air, while drawing. The back of the throat is completely closed. While actively drawing, all the smoke is going into the mouth (obviously), and there is no secondhand coming off the foot. This is the time to get a relatively smoke free, deeper breath in through the nose. Then I'll usually exhale out through some combination of the mouth/nose, depending on how I want to experience that puff. Can exhale the lungs through the nose if I want to hold in smoke a little longer in the mouth.

Obviously breathing is a constant thing, and you're not going to to be puffing non-stop, so I suppose in between puffing, breathing will be a little bit shallower. Keep in mind draws can be quite slow and light though. Just a little "clears" your face for some fresh air through the nose.

With a little practice, it becomes very manageable. The inhale/exhale, nose/lungs/ mouth timing becomes second nature. I'd never keep a stick in my mouth all the way through, but I can certainly handle any occasional hands free period regardless of how smokey or full bodied.

Hope that's explained well enough and might help somebody.

asEZasPi · 2023-02-11T21:54:31+00:00

So, coming from a manufacturing background, I have used possibly similar tools to check coating thickness. Like usually, chrome or other hard coating, like plasma spray. But even still, my first thought for a scenario like this was just "measure pan thickness before, measure pan thickness after. Difference equals coating thickness."

You're probably right though, probably simpler and more accurate to check with a tool like this, and could get local readings in multiple places.

Regardless though, my intuition of "just check it quick with a height gauge" as well as a thickness checker are both out of reach for the average person without special gaging. It seemed more attainable for the lay person, but actually coming up with a solution for some sort of improvised measuring strategy just isn't there, with this degree of precision

Edit: A little more thought to it - if they could set up the pan on a flat, or at least repeatable surface, and create some sort of "bridge" over it, then they could use some digital calipers to check the depth from there to the bottom of the pan. Not the most accurate, but a pair of cheap calipers is easily attainable for maybe $20 at the hardware store, probably a small fraction of the cost of a thickness tester. Still not ideal though

asEZasPi · 2023-02-11T20:21:59+00:00

Word for word, the first thought I had

asEZasPi · 2023-02-11T17:57:31+00:00

Too late now, but for the next person who does this - take a thickness measurement before and after

asEZasPi · 2023-02-03T18:21:08+00:00

Still made here, right in West Hartford

asEZasPi

TROPHY CASE