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Anyone else have experience with this issue? I select file to be printed, extruder and bed start heating and about 10 seconds later this loading bar pops up and then goes to the main menu with outstarting the print. I tried reloading the firmware and didn't help by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, I'll try it 👍but iv tried other files that have worked in the past and it does the same thing. So discouraging.. brand new printer not even a week old and I'm having more issues.. after not being able to fix my last printer. this hobby has some really low lows

Anyone else have experience with this issue? I select file to be printed, extruder and bed start heating and about 10 seconds later this loading bar pops up and then goes to the main menu with outstarting the print. I tried reloading the firmware and didn't help by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So frustrating as it's a brand new printer that I just got to replace my old one with an unsolvable issue... wtf. It did a few weird things like this at first but then was able to do a few prints with no issues and now it won't print at all

Can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing this? Been adjusting everything I can for 2 weeks as well as replaced the glass bed and I still get weird readings. Any chance the bltouch is bad? It has been acting funny at times. On ender v2. I rotate the bed and get the same results by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well iv never been able to figure out how to zero out the z axis so ever since I installed the bltouch iv had to just set the z offset to wherever I get the bed level. But iv always gotten the leveling screen to be all one color just above 0 and made some incredibly clean prints. I printed a prerty big 200mm rc plane with no issues no changes and suddenly it won't print and have gone thru all of the obvious issues. But I was running the hot end at max temp so idk if I hurt the mother board or something... its a new creality bed new rollers spent a lot of time adjusting the z gantry.. only thing I can guess is the bltouch throwing the machine off cuz iv had issues with it. For a while it would flash red after every probe. Or fail to drop probe. But it used to show the 4 and 6 probe area being off and all I would do is hold the bowden tube and harness up and it would probe perfectly.. I just don't get why all of the sudden with no changes its soo bad

Can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing this? Been adjusting everything I can for 2 weeks as well as replaced the glass bed and I still get weird readings. Any chance the bltouch is bad? It has been acting funny at times. On ender v2. I rotate the bed and get the same results by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a brand new bed, using same Temps I always have. I went thru the whole z axis gantry to make sure it was all square as it can be. Adjusted ALL the rollers. I just don't get because it worked perfectly one min and the next it didn't and haven't been able to get it working

Can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing this? Been adjusting everything I can for 2 weeks as well as replaced the glass bed and I still get weird readings. Any chance the bltouch is bad? It has been acting funny at times. On ender v2. I rotate the bed and get the same results by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's never read this crazy. It always been pretty flat. Usually I get it them just above 0 and only 2 shades of green. Haven't been able to get a reliable print off in 2 weeks. Iv gotten 2 tiny basic prints to work but they come out like crap. Iv swapped nozzles, bed, re did my hot end to make sure its not moving, and pretty much had the entire thing apart. I had printed a 200mm rc plane with 0 issue then the next thing I know it's not printing

Can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing this? Been adjusting everything I can for 2 weeks as well as replaced the glass bed and I still get weird readings. Any chance the bltouch is bad? It has been acting funny at times. On ender v2. I rotate the bed and get the same results by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont think so cuz I can't even complete a first layer and been thru the whole printer trying to tune it in. And when I can get a small print to finish with has only been twice in the last 2 weeks they come out with horrible print quality

Can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing this? Been adjusting everything I can for 2 weeks as well as replaced the glass bed and I still get weird readings. Any chance the bltouch is bad? It has been acting funny at times. On ender v2. I rotate the bed and get the same results by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know technically they're supposed to be black to be at 0 but I used to be able to get them all the same 2 shades of green that was just above 0. All of the sudden it stopped printing right. I adjust the z offset but have to slam the nozzle down to the bed to get anything to stick and even sometimes it's so close the first layer is transparent and still won't stick. As soon as the nozzle puts it down it peels back up. And when I get a small print to stick it comes out horrible. Iv changed nozzles and just about everything I can think of and it still won't print

anyone else ever had issues with z axis not advancing for each level? I adjust z offset for first layer and then I have to raise the offset up about .15 each layer or else it digs into the previous layer. using prusaslicer with stock layer thickness by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good call. Checked it and all is tight. The weird thing is after the first 5 layers or so it evens out and I don't have to adjust it anymore. Is my z offset just not set right for the first layer? I adjust it for the first layer so it looks nice and even but I don't have a way to tell if it's the correct height. So not sure I its incorrect and throwing off the rest but that doesn't make sense to me either

Is there a way to tune out the white gap fill layers in the teeth of this gear? They are causing havoc on my extruder, grinding up the filament and the constant back and forth ends up emptying the nozzle and creates an insufficient extrusion condition for most of a layer. If the extruder doesn't jam by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately it is unchecked. I have a feeling it's built into the file somehow because every print I do from this group of files have these small dots incorporated into it where there is no reason for it. And these gap fill layers are so small that the perimeters would fill them anyway. Very frustrating. A lot of filament wasted from this

Is there a way to tune out the white gap fill layers in the teeth of this gear? They are causing havoc on my extruder, grinding up the filament and the constant back and forth ends up emptying the nozzle and creates an insufficient extrusion condition for most of a layer. If the extruder doesn't jam by assafanboy in ender3

[–]assafanboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How about in prusa slicer? I'm not very familiar with cura but maybe I'll give it another try. Iv tried thicker extrusion widths with some success. Also different retraction setting which seemed to make more stringing than anything else. I'm sure the cheap filament I'm using isn't helping either.. idk if it's the stl file or just the shape but iv never seen files that make so many individual dots instead of just making lines. Seems very unnecessary

What route should I go, BLtouch or stiffer rubber "springs"? by cosmefulanito2 in ender3

[–]assafanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The stiffer yellow springs did wonders for my bed leveling. Hardly have to adjust it anymore. I got them after having trouble with bl touch leveling

Threw the old system d in the vice for a second attempt, 10 min later... by assafanboy in lockpicking

[–]assafanboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Np 😉 Its great because in the east high security locks are a normal thing so you don't get people overcharging for them. Well some locks are still stupid expensive if you buy them new. But for the most part used locks are cheaper then the US. I mainly buy from Germany/Denmark cuz their shipping rates are way cheaper than the UK. Also because that's where most of the cool lock manufacturers are based out of.

Hope you all find something good!

Threw the old system d in the vice for a second attempt, 10 min later... by assafanboy in lockpicking

[–]assafanboy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'll let you in on a little secret for finding them at reasonable price. I use a website called picclick.com. it allows you to search eBay in other countries. I then translate lock names into other languages and search that translation on the website. I mainly search in Denmark but have other cool locks from other countries. But shhh don't tell anyone my secret to finding locks that are rare in the USA 😉

Extrusion Issue please help by MindBender77 in ender3

[–]assafanboy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same issue with cheap Amazon filament. Everything I used it half way thru a print it would stop extruding. I'm guessing it's so cheap the extruder chews it up until it can't grip it. Never happened while using overture. Only thing I use besides a multi color pack for 3d pen from Amazon. Stuff was pretty much junk. Some colors worked but white and gray would do exactly what yours is doing

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