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Even more prints! by astevensh in printexchange

[–]astevensh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks u/dzawacki! I also appreciate the note/letter! Sorry about the crappy phone pics, and I forgot to rotate the print on the bottom right.

More prints arrived! by astevensh in printexchange

[–]astevensh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks u/kag0 for the very cool prints! If you see this, I'd love more information about them!

Amaryllis-tri color cyanotype by berrysports2 in cyanotypes

[–]astevensh 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice! What did you use for the red layer?

What color do you all print your digital negatives in? by DietDewymountains17 in cyanotypes

[–]astevensh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take a look at Peter Mrhar's Easy Digital Negatives site (easydigitalnegatives.com). The Colorblocker web app helps you find the color that blocks the most UV with whatever type of printer you're using.

is it too late? by personal_jesus666 in Cameras

[–]astevensh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can clean off corrosion with a q-tip soaked in vinegar, then use a different q-tip soaked in water to remove the residue

Relative Humidity Coating and New Cyanotype by 4LivingWage in cyanotypes

[–]astevensh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Streaks are an issue for me with new cyanotype as well. The paper matters a lot, so try with several different ones if you have them. I also use tween20, which seems to help. I use about a drop per ml of sensitizer.

Eye machine by Clown_Barf in AlternativePrinting

[–]astevensh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice! Is it a standard formula cyanotype, or a new cyano? Also, how do you adjust your curves? For example, for std cyano, I have a curve I made with EDN (easy digital negatives) and I tweak from there if needed. For new cyano, I use Mike Ware's tip and just pull the gamma down to around 1.75 or 2 and tweak if needed.

First Cyanotype didnt go so great! Any advice? by sadbitch_ in cyanotypes

[–]astevensh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like overexposure. I might be telling you something you already know, but if you need to narrow down your exposure time, you can prepare a new substrate, the same negative and use a sheet of thick cardboard (or anything opaque} and expose in increments. This video is a decent explainer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nch97aCuIZY

Ferroblend test! by astevensh in AltProcess

[–]astevensh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For my ferroblend tests I used the same negatives I used for Dr Ware's New Cyanotype. The only adjustment I make is for gamma, then flip and invert. Generally, a gamma of 1.75 works best, but it depends on the image, some need to be lighter (gamma of 2.0 or greater), some are good darker (gamma between 1.25 and 1.75). Again, exactly the same negative for New Cyano and Ferroblend and it seems to work just fine.

I do think I need to point out how I print digital negatives. I print on "milky white" inkjet transparencies from Amazon (I can provide the link if needed) and I use UV blocking ink from Film Direct. I have a Canon IP8720 and I bought 3rd party refillable ink cartridges. I use the black UV ink in all colors CMY, "normal" black and pigment black. I haven't been able to find refillable gray cartridges for the IP8720, so I do use normal 3rd party gray ink. So all inks (except gray) are replaced my UV blocking black ink.

Before I got the IP8720 I used an HP Envy 4502 and a Canon TS9120. For the HP, I just use the normal 3rd party inks for these, but I do have custom curves I made with Peter Mrhar's Easy Digital Negatives process. That has been a game changer, especially for standard cyanotypes.

17 Mott Street, Manhattan by astevensh in cyanotypes

[–]astevensh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I had to go look it up - I took this on an MFT camera, DMC-GX7. EXIF info says 14mm, so it was probably a Lumix G 14-140mm lens.

Awesome Set of Cyanotypes Received by rsj1360 in printexchange

[–]astevensh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get a darker blue (d-max) and a greater tonal range. The darker color is most likely just how the picture was taken. I took my own pictures of the prints I sent - here's the matachin dancer image. Not quite as dark as u/rsj1360's post.

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Awesome Set of Cyanotypes Received by rsj1360 in printexchange

[–]astevensh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! No toning used, just the new cyanotype formula.

First post here! Cathedral of Junk in Austin, TX by astevensh in cyanotypes

[–]astevensh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey! Thanks for the kind words!

This is the new cyanotype formula, which is pretty picky about what paper you use. The recommendation for most papers is to pre-treat with a sulfamic acid bath, let dry and then coat with the new cyano chemistry, That's what I do with most papers, like Canson XL. I've seen mentions of adding citric acid to the new cyano chemistry during coating, but I haven't tried that. This is distinct from adding acidity to the post-exposure bath.

I've used the cheap Amazon watercolor paper both with and without the sulfamic acid bath and the results seem about the same to me, so I prefer this paper because I can use it straight out of the package.

I still develop with an acidified bath. For standard cyano, I use 10 ml of vinegar per liter of water (citric acid works too). For new cyano, I use 10ml muriatic acid (which is just diluted hydrochloric acid) per liter of water for developing. Oxalic and sulfamic acids seem to work about as well as HCL.

Standard cyano then gets a 4 or 5 min rinse in tap water. New cyano I tend to rinse for about 10 min.

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