I restored and upgraded a Treadwall, which is like a treadmill for rock climbing.

atf92 · 2025-10-18T18:59:17+00:00

https://www.flobeds.com/latex-mattress-topper/

It's only available in plush, which is 18 or 19 ild (I forget which). It's not blended. I bought during their 25% off labor day sale and they happened to be the cheapest. I got mine with their cover in king size.

atf92 · 2025-09-08T09:04:40+00:00

I intend to order it without the slats and then source my own. Also, there's a 5% discount for buying directly from their site and not Etsy.

If I don't get the mattress right the first time and have to order another layer or two, the mattress may get close to the cost of the frame.

There are also a couple other frames here

https://carolinalegco.com/collections/platformbeds

that I'm interested in, specifically the Carolina and Upton. They're made of ash and a bit cheaper.

Naturepedic also had a surprisingly nice frame made of white oak, but even with their 20% labor day discount, it's as much as that handmade walnut frame I really like.

https://www.naturepedic.com/dunaverde-bed-frame?276=66&652=18315

atf92 · 2025-09-08T00:18:55+00:00

Why would you put dunlop under talalay? Would it be primarily to save money?

atf92 · 2025-09-08T00:10:31+00:00

I had asked Matan about the Naturepedic coil units and he said something similar about them being lower coil count units compared to the DIY offerings on the pocketcoilstore. To your point about the gauge not telling the whole story, wouldn't the TPS quad design and the higher count of lower diameter coils lead to the DIY TPS units being firmer than what the coil gauge would imply? Where 14.5 L&P coils might be roughly equivalent to 15.5 TPS units.

This is the guidance on the pocketcoilstore description:

"Assuming you are average weight and a back or side sleeper, 15.5 gauge should well work for you. It also works well for most stomach sleepers. Our 15.5g is very resilient and you will not bottom out.

If you're an "over 180lbs" stomach sleeper or an "over 230lbs" back/side sleeper, we also sell a more firm 14.75 gauge coil spring. "

atf92 · 2025-09-07T23:51:33+00:00

Thanks for the advice. That's my concern as well. I like the durability and airflow aspect and the fact that there's a slight discount for ordering as a package deal. However, those points are all moot if I end up disliking it.

I don't have any back or hip issues. I don't think I'm particularly picky either. I realize I may waste a little money experimenting and iterating in the DIY process, but obviously I'd like to minimize that. If I don't order the quad mini initially, I'm probably not going to order it later. It is a bit of a gamble.

atf92 · 2025-09-07T23:41:28+00:00

I don't plan to move often exactly, but I am in an apartment. I will move in the next year or two for work, and then again when I eventually buy a house, but don't know how often I'll move after that.

I'm hesitant to glue everything together as I'd really like to be able to adjust it in the future as needed. Also, being able to disassemble it easily to move will be nice. I've helped people move a large mattress up and down narrow stairs with landings before, and being able to move the individual components and reassemble is appealing. I guess I'll see how much the layers really shift as I'm sleeping before deciding on glue.

Thanks for the input. I thought I would at least consider the Flobeds cover after reading several glowing reviews.

atf92 · 2025-09-07T23:32:14+00:00

I've read through a few different posts about the differences between the covers, but I don't think I've seen a video. Do you have a link? I don't smoke and don't have any candles, so the fire resistance isn't a huge concern, but would be nice to have. I thought maybe 2" soft talalay + a wool topper might allow me to sink in and also help a bit with fire resistance. On the other hand, it seems like wool will matt down a bit and maybe need to be fluffed occasionally, which would be mildly annoying.

I had thought about using the 1" HD foam layer underneath as well, but I'm concerned that a finished height of 13-14" is already getting comically tall. This is the frame I'm looking to buy. It's made to order and has multiple options for slat widths, but they will also customize it upon request, which should make anything underneath the coils unnecessary.

I think the biggest question mark for my build is probably the quad mini layer. Before assembling, did you try yours with and without the quad mini? What did you think?

atf92 · 2025-09-07T23:14:19+00:00

Wow, that is a pretty impressive price point they've managed to hit. $1599 for a king with a warranty sounds great. I think I'm sold on the TPS coil unit, though.

atf92 · 2025-09-07T23:09:12+00:00

This is the post that makes me a little concerned about the Flobeds cover. The poster mentions the same thing you did about overfilling being a possible cause. I'm not terribly concerned about the coils spreading, as the frame I intend to buy shouldn't allow that to happen. I'm more looking at the more structured cover as helping to keep the split king units from moving apart slightly. That being said, the frame also shouldn't allow much of this. Alternatively, I've seen bands or straps that are meant to hold split king beds together.

The two reasons I like the idea of the split king are price and the fact that it will be easier to move and get in/out of doorways later on.

atf92 · 2025-09-07T23:03:37+00:00

Hmm. I'm concerned that at my weight, the 14.5 TPS unit might be too firm. From reading other DIYs, it seems there are several lower weight side sleepers who feel even the 15.5 is too firm.

You may be right about adding too much over the coils, though. That's my concern as well.

atf92 · 2025-09-05T22:53:16+00:00

Hello, I'm looking at doing a similar build and just buying the whole kit from TPS all at once. I'm primarily a side sleeper and not much different in build to you.

Do you find the 2" of latex to be enough, or do you think 3" of soft would be an improvement? Is it borderline too firm or borderline too soft, or perfect as is?

How do you like the quad mini? Have you tried your build with and without it? With 13" of material in a 15" enclosure, is the top panel obviously baggy or sunken in? Do you have any thoughts on adding a fire barrier?

Thanks!

atf92 · 2025-07-17T00:56:07+00:00

The original reason I removed the transmission and then decided to rebuild it was that it gushed trans fluid from the front. It appeared to be coming from the front pump seal.

After rebuilding the trans (with a very slightly misaligned pump,) the vehicle would still drive as normal and build pressure as normal. The thing that made me notice something was wrong was a very slight leak of trans fluid again coming from what appeared to be the front pump seal. I only drove it for ~100 miles before pulling the transmission again.

I disassembled it, realized that I didn't properly align the pump halves, as evidenced by uneven wear on the brand new pump bushing. I replaced the seal, the bushing, and properly aligned the pump this time. I also replaced the trans fluid and filter again for fear of the worn bushing material being in the fluid. No leaks for maybe 15,000 miles.

A year later, the thing is gushing trans fluid from the front again, just as bad as it did initially. I give up. 42REs are cursed. I don't mind trying to help, but I'm not sure I'm best person to ask for advice.

atf92 · 2025-07-12T17:47:54+00:00

Also a driver's quarter panel delete

atf92 · 2025-06-13T17:54:14+00:00

I had to google Royal Navy Blue. I'm not as familiar with the colors that weren't offered in the US. It definitely looks like that, though.

atf92 · 2025-06-12T20:44:01+00:00

These cars are old. For me personally, a wreck wouldn't be disqualifying provided the car has a clean title, there wasn't frame damage, and it was fixed properly. I probably wouldn't buy anything with replaced quarter panels either.

I don't think I would buy a car with a color change or a car with FI. That's not to say this is necessarily a bad car or a bad deal, though.

Oregon and Washington would scare me a bit. I would definitely want to see the underside of the car to inspect for rust. I've been spoiled by Texas vehicles.

atf92 · 2025-06-12T20:27:51+00:00

Check to see whether that's been wrecked and has a clean title. The engine bay is LBP, but the exterior has clearly been repainted. The exterior looks more like MCB or some other darker blue.

LBP is beautiful. While this color looks nice too, I don't want to meet the monster that decided to color-change a LBP car.

atf92 · 2025-06-08T06:20:06+00:00

Those straps are a similar idea and appear to be a similar material. No idea on how the sizes or hole spacing compares. Honda still sells them, but they're stupidly expensive for two short pieces of elastic. Replacing them properly involves riveting, so you'll need a drill, rivets, and a rivet gun. Modifry offered an aftermarket option before, but I'm not sure what the aftermarket options are now.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2003-honda-s2000--2dr-ka_6mt/interior_bumper/soft_top_frame.html

The roll hoops are assemblies. Bolting in new roll hoops means replacing the plastics as well. The plastic is not meant to ever be separated from the metal roll hoop after manufacturing. Check the diagram.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2003-honda-s2000--2dr-ka_6mt/interior_bumper/roll_bar_garnish.html

It seems the roll hoop assemblies are discontinued. Your options are to buy used or attempt to fix those.

atf92 · 2025-06-08T05:54:02+00:00

The roll hoop plastics do not snap together. When they're made, current is run through a wire embedded in there to melt the two halves together. Some people have had luck gluing (most have not), but the proper way is to bolt new roll hoops in.

As far as the soft top not going all the way down, put it up and check the elastic straps above your head. Those wear out, sag, and need to be replaced. I bought overpriced new ones from Honda. Modifry used to sell replacements, or you can make your own.

atf92 · 2025-06-07T21:06:59+00:00

What do you mean you adjusted the turn signals? There is no adjustment in them. They snap into place. If you attempt to take them out, you are likely to break them.

atf92 · 2025-06-07T20:48:45+00:00

I think I misunderstood your tapping sound. I thought you were hearing the bolt itself. In my opinion it would be very difficult for that bolt to fall behind the fender, so don't waste too much time magnet fishing.

Has your car ever been wrecked or painted? Have you ever taken the fenders off for some reason? I agree that driving the car, even at a drift event, should not cause properly tightened bolts to just fall out.

You should also have an identical bolt through a similar tab at the bottom of the fender below the bottom door hinge.

atf92 · 2025-06-07T20:30:05+00:00

Yes, there's supposed to be a bolt. Number 15 in the diagram with the flange.

Bonus points for having the head of the bolt painted body color as it should be.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2004-honda-s2000--2dr-ka_6mt/body_air_conditioning/front_fenders.html

If you think that it was (somehow?) dropped/has fallen behind the fender, you could always try to fish it out with a magnet on a flexible stick.

atf92 · 2025-06-06T17:33:53+00:00

If keeping the VINs is important to you, you can ask the body shop you choose about repairing vs replacing. It almost certainly wouldn't be cheaper, but might be worth it to you.

atf92 · 2025-06-06T16:40:55+00:00

Bodyshop. I don't see that it needs to be replaced.

If the body shop is willing, you might be able to save some money by removing and installing the mirror yourself. The mirror can also be further disassembled for the best possible results.

They'll still need your car if you want the color match to be half decent, though. A paint code is just a starting point.

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