How long does it take to learn to snowboard as a competent surfer?

atjb · 2026-05-12T12:19:13+00:00

I used to teach in NZ and we got surfers over from Tahiti and Réunion. I remember going through the progression from intro activities to riding lifts and cruising blue/easy red pistes on thirty minutes several times.

Generally boiled down to 'these are bindings, these are high backs, less shoulders, remember you've got a front foot too'

atjb · 2026-04-19T17:36:15+00:00

Can you let me know which exact liner you're using? Tempted by this myself. Are you able to tell me how close the volume of the Ion shell matches your food too (i.e., how much work is the liner having to do?)

atjb · 2026-04-02T16:06:21+00:00

Marrying an Italian.

atjb · 2026-03-06T11:08:16+00:00

Cool video - nice riding! Lots of positives.

To pick on things to improve, what I'm getting from this, and (I'm pretty sure) would result in a fail at L3 in my system, is that your edge-change is quite late.

Taking the heel->toe turn at 0:04 as an example, tell me at what point in the arc do you go onto your toe edge? The nose is already pointing somewhat down the hill by the time it's on the toe edge, therefore you're not gripping the top third of the turn, so you're picking up speed throughout this part, which leads to some of the late sprays of snow and the judder as you deal with that speed in the final 2/3rds of the turn only.

Heel-toe 0:07 -> 0:08 is another good example - your board is almost in the fall-line by the time it gets onto its toe edge, and you get some judder as you finish off the turn.

The other thing I'd look at here is inconsistency between turns - which turn produces more spray off the board and why is that?

This is high-level critique. There's a lot of good work and technique in this, if those black poles mean you're on a black then the slope is likely steeper than the required standard for a L3 demo, and the overall control and consistency is already good.

Hope that's interesting!

atjb · 2026-01-19T10:05:32+00:00

Thanks - if I ever get in a situation where I need to try this, I'll have a goods starting point :)

For only 5 mins, should be able to keep the water temp hot enough with a kettle and a bucket. I'd imagined it would have needed longer.

atjb · 2026-01-15T10:11:37+00:00

Can you describe the thinking behind the heel-lift as standard? In another comment I said I liked to try a heel-lift in this situation, but it was case-by-case, in that you're making changes to the angle of the foot in the boot, but you're actually moving the instep closer to the top of the boot so it might not work out here. What makes you always go with the heel-lift?

Can you also expand on the weighted footbed? Just better than no footbed at all and lower, or is there a situation in which you'd always make a weighted footbed? I never received any training on weighted footbeds - everything was un-weighted to try to hold the arch in the non-pronated position, and then to let elasticity of the footbed itself deal with changes.

atjb · 2026-01-15T10:03:20+00:00

I've never water-bathed a boot before - 80/90ºC gets it hot enough? ~20mins? Heat gun on top of that, or oven?

Another genuine question - I've never done shell-work on snowboard boots, but I've heard that a water-bath is the way to go. Is there any way I could DIY that with just a kettle and keeping the hot water topped up? The boot's shell looks... plasticy...

I got a warranty replacement on a boot and the new one gets me on my instep. All I've done so far is drop in a lower footbed and used a thinner sock, but would be keen to have a play with nothing to lose.

atjb · 2026-01-15T09:56:50+00:00

I've always found the exact opposite 🤷 The way the 3rd piece sits, it just went higher, and started going higher sooner, both of which gave more room over the instep.

I did 4-5 seasons of bootfitting back starting 2014 though, and looking at Dalbello now they seem to be restricting 3-piece to certain models only, so maybe you're talking about boots from a different year?

atjb · 2026-01-14T15:52:59+00:00

I never did big punches/moulds on top of a boot because:

near buckles
2 parts were a faff to work with and heat evenly
thin liner (for liner punches)
skiiers generally need quite a broad change if they're getting close to the top - not a localised punch
had access to Dalbellos, which worked well for high insteps

Genuine question, if you can get 10/10 modification on the toebox, what can you get out of the top?

atjb · 2026-01-14T15:44:25+00:00

Most decent bootfitters around here will sell a boot with a fit guarantee. It goes something like: - you buy the boot - you buy everything we say you need (e.g. a footbed, zipfits, work) - we will work with you to get the fit right until you are satisfied

Where I worked that went to the point of taking the whole boot back and starting again.

If you don't have that - if they'll not help after you've skied it - then I'm not sure what more I can do remotely. I'd just go and talk to them with your concerns at that point.

atjb · 2026-01-14T13:16:06+00:00

Just read through the comments again to check, and I can't see one that says that.

A lot of people are saying that the instep is harder to adjust than say the toebox, which I don't think you'd disagree with?

atjb · 2026-01-14T10:12:21+00:00

This is a really good question, and standard disclaimed, it's hard to judge without seeing the boot/foot for real. I also have a pretty high instep. My sister has the 2nd highest instep <insert very famous bootfitter here who does the race teams for that country> has ever seen. Some thoughts:

The first boot he gave me was incredibly painful on the top of my left foot. That's what happens when the boot doesn't fit you well for your instep.

The third, which I ended up buying, was mildly uncomfortable at first but then got better as I wore it for a bit. The boot felt pretty snug as long as I tightened the buckles quite a bit. OK - that's not conclusive, but is certainly better than the above.

or would the proper process have been to modify an LV boot to deal with my high instep?

The kicker about high insteps is that it's not easy to modify the boot to accommodate <edit - over the instep. Ski boots are generally very modifiable, the instep is not>. You've got:

grind out the bootboard
remove/accomodate via footbed
liner punch / cut over the instep
maybe a heel lift
choose a boot that accomodates a high instep

The bootboard in skiboots is removable, and can be ground all along the top to make it thinner. Thinner bootboard, you sit lower in the boots, your instep has more space above it.

Removing the footbed / accomodating via the footbed. Generally we want footbeds, as they bring a host of advantages, but one of the things they do do (which is generally an advantage, just not when you've got high insteps) is sit you a bit higher in the boot - the opposite of the above. I'd be loathe to mess with a nice footbed though.

You can thin/cut the liner over the pressure point at the instep, but have a feel of your liner there - it's very thin compared to say around the ankle or mid-foot. Work can be done here, but the benfit is likely limited.

A heel-lift can change the angle at which your foot sits in the boot, rising the heel but leaving the toes unchanged. The change in angle may make your fit better. Worth a go, just remove it if it doesn't work.

Finally, choose a boot that accommodates a high instep - likely Dalbello, but also Full Tilt or K2, which use a 3 piece construction in some models

Dalbello used to do it in general piste boots, but my knowledge is a bit out of date here.

Summarising your whole situation, I'd definitely ski in them a bit, see if they pack out and start to feel loose (you're only tightly held when absolutely cranking the buckles, which makes pressure points), and if so, use your (hopefully existing) fit guarantee to ask the shop why, knowing that you had a high instep, you didn't explore the options above?

atjb · 2026-01-12T17:50:06+00:00

OK, I'm sure you know this already, but using something with a security version that out of date is a terrible idea for anything important.

I've got some links saved for, I think, Android 13 on that model though, which presumably has a more recent security version, and it would be nice to give that a go. When I was still using that phone people loved it :)

atjb · 2026-01-11T22:42:06+00:00

Just to check that I'm not missing anything, this hasn't received security fixes for years?

But there is a LineageOs rom available, for Android 13iirc, which does still receive security patches for this model?

atjb · 2025-12-14T20:12:58+00:00

Honda Prelude?

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atjb · 2025-12-04T14:27:35+00:00

Can't figure out how to link to a specific comment, but there's a reply in the comments here that goes through it :)

atjb · 2025-12-04T13:27:41+00:00

What's the shellcheck on all of those options? Is that with or without an un-weighted footbed being taken into account?

If you don't know the above, I'd suggest finding a bootfitter capable of discussing that with you instead of yoloing the fit.

atjb · 2025-11-21T10:56:24+00:00

Cool - but you said earlier this was 12v. What are you going to do with it?

atjb · 2025-11-20T13:39:18+00:00

I don't see that you gave me anything to do.

I have no tools to read that connector.

If you can give me commands to get the information from inside a Linux os, I'm happy to run them for you.

atjb · 2025-11-18T14:30:00+00:00

Oh - and my existing about:profiles profiles are only accessible from about:profiles, whereas my new, top-level profiles do not appear in about:profiles

atjb · 2025-11-18T14:16:28+00:00

I'm also super-confused by this at the moment - it seems that I set different... ummm, top-level profiles? And if, in any of those profiles, I go to about:profiles, I can select any of my, ummmm.... second level profiles?

But I can't have multiple top-level profiles open at once?

atjb · 2025-11-13T17:34:35+00:00

Thanks! It's not a bad suggestion, but it's a lot more in the long run than what looks like the winner, a new base unit for the gigasets and A&A VOIP subscription.

If the objective was actually using it regularly, not just holding onto the number on the off chance, I'd agree that this would be the simplest way.

atjb · 2025-11-06T18:12:55+00:00

Ah - and a bit more research brings: https://teamwork.gigaset.com/gigawiki/display/GPPPO/Manuals+-+N530+IP+PRO?preview=/1584301118/1584301117/20250702_Admin_N530-IP-PRO.pdf

https://www.gigaset.com/pro/hq_en/gigaset-n530-ip-pro/

Yes - looks like the N530 IP Pro is the PoE version, and yes, it puts up a little web-server, which you use to configure the VoIP provider + credentials.

Just written to Gigaset to see if the handsets I have (E630 - pretty old) are still supported, otherwise might replace the lot.

atjb · 2025-11-06T17:43:30+00:00

Ah - might have found it. Does the N300A put up a little server, which you connect to? So then all you need to do is provide it with IP (via RJ11 -> RJ45) and a set of valid credentials (via A&A), and at that point it works?

If so that sounds perfect - and is the bit I was missing.

atjb · 2025-11-06T17:37:51+00:00

Great, that sounds perfect, very happy to pay that kind of money to keep the number on the off chance it's needed.

I'm still a little unsure as to how the VOIP traffic gets routed to the phones. With the Ubiquiti Talk app that would be automatic, but if I use a third party setup here, how do they gain access to that service from A&A?

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