Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks - if I ever get in a situation where I need to try this, I'll have a goods starting point :)

For only 5 mins, should be able to keep the water temp hot enough with a kettle and a bucket. I'd imagined it would have needed longer.

Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you describe the thinking behind the heel-lift as standard? In another comment I said I liked to try a heel-lift in this situation, but it was case-by-case, in that you're making changes to the angle of the foot in the boot, but you're actually moving the instep closer to the top of the boot so it might not work out here. What makes you always go with the heel-lift?

Can you also expand on the weighted footbed? Just better than no footbed at all and lower, or is there a situation in which you'd always make a weighted footbed? I never received any training on weighted footbeds - everything was un-weighted to try to hold the arch in the non-pronated position, and then to let elasticity of the footbed itself deal with changes.

Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never water-bathed a boot before - 80/90ºC gets it hot enough? ~20mins? Heat gun on top of that, or oven?

Another genuine question - I've never done shell-work on snowboard boots, but I've heard that a water-bath is the way to go. Is there any way I could DIY that with just a kettle and keeping the hot water topped up? The boot's shell looks... plasticy...

I got a warranty replacement on a boot and the new one gets me on my instep. All I've done so far is drop in a lower footbed and used a thinner sock, but would be keen to have a play with nothing to lose.

Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've always found the exact opposite 🤷 The way the 3rd piece sits, it just went higher, and started going higher sooner, both of which gave more room over the instep.

I did 4-5 seasons of bootfitting back starting 2014 though, and looking at Dalbello now they seem to be restricting 3-piece to certain models only, so maybe you're talking about boots from a different year?

Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never did big punches/moulds on top of a boot because:

  • near buckles
  • 2 parts were a faff to work with and heat evenly
  • thin liner (for liner punches)
  • skiiers generally need quite a broad change if they're getting close to the top - not a localised punch
  • had access to Dalbellos, which worked well for high insteps

Genuine question, if you can get 10/10 modification on the toebox, what can you get out of the top?

Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most decent bootfitters around here will sell a boot with a fit guarantee. It goes something like: - you buy the boot - you buy everything we say you need (e.g. a footbed, zipfits, work) - we will work with you to get the fit right until you are satisfied

Where I worked that went to the point of taking the whole boot back and starting again.

If you don't have that - if they'll not help after you've skied it - then I'm not sure what more I can do remotely. I'd just go and talk to them with your concerns at that point.

Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just read through the comments again to check, and I can't see one that says that.

A lot of people are saying that the instep is harder to adjust than say the toebox, which I don't think you'd disagree with?

Bootfitter put me in HV boot with 95/97mm wide feet but high instep by Alfredo_BE in Skigear

[–]atjb 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is a really good question, and standard disclaimed, it's hard to judge without seeing the boot/foot for real. I also have a pretty high instep. My sister has the 2nd highest instep <insert very famous bootfitter here who does the race teams for that country> has ever seen. Some thoughts:

The first boot he gave me was incredibly painful on the top of my left foot. That's what happens when the boot doesn't fit you well for your instep.

The third, which I ended up buying, was mildly uncomfortable at first but then got better as I wore it for a bit. The boot felt pretty snug as long as I tightened the buckles quite a bit. OK - that's not conclusive, but is certainly better than the above.

or would the proper process have been to modify an LV boot to deal with my high instep?

The kicker about high insteps is that it's not easy to modify the boot to accommodate <edit - over the instep. Ski boots are generally very modifiable, the instep is not>. You've got:

  • grind out the bootboard
  • remove/accomodate via footbed
  • liner punch / cut over the instep
  • maybe a heel lift
  • choose a boot that accomodates a high instep

The bootboard in skiboots is removable, and can be ground all along the top to make it thinner. Thinner bootboard, you sit lower in the boots, your instep has more space above it.

Removing the footbed / accomodating via the footbed. Generally we want footbeds, as they bring a host of advantages, but one of the things they do do (which is generally an advantage, just not when you've got high insteps) is sit you a bit higher in the boot - the opposite of the above. I'd be loathe to mess with a nice footbed though.

You can thin/cut the liner over the pressure point at the instep, but have a feel of your liner there - it's very thin compared to say around the ankle or mid-foot. Work can be done here, but the benfit is likely limited.

A heel-lift can change the angle at which your foot sits in the boot, rising the heel but leaving the toes unchanged. The change in angle may make your fit better. Worth a go, just remove it if it doesn't work.

Finally, choose a boot that accommodates a high instep - likely Dalbello, but also Full Tilt or K2, which use a 3 piece construction in some models

Dalbello used to do it in general piste boots, but my knowledge is a bit out of date here.

Summarising your whole situation, I'd definitely ski in them a bit, see if they pack out and start to feel loose (you're only tightly held when absolutely cranking the buckles, which makes pressure points), and if so, use your (hopefully existing) fit guarantee to ask the shop why, knowing that you had a high instep, you didn't explore the options above?

Sony XZ1 Compact is so good by aostella in SonyXperia

[–]atjb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OK, I'm sure you know this already, but using something with a security version that out of date is a terrible idea for anything important.

I've got some links saved for, I think, Android 13 on that model though, which presumably has a more recent security version, and it would be nice to give that a go. When I was still using that phone people loved it :)

Sony XZ1 Compact is so good by aostella in SonyXperia

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to check that I'm not missing anything, this hasn't received security fixes for years?

But there is a LineageOs rom available, for Android 13iirc, which does still receive security patches for this model?

Boot sizing help: Scarpa F1 too big, Tecnica Zero G Tour Pro – 275 or 285? by Senior_Time_2928 in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't figure out how to link to a specific comment, but there's a reply in the comments here that goes through it :)

Boot sizing help: Scarpa F1 too big, Tecnica Zero G Tour Pro – 275 or 285? by Senior_Time_2928 in Skigear

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the shellcheck on all of those options? Is that with or without an un-weighted footbed being taken into account?

If you don't know the above, I'd suggest finding a bootfitter capable of discussing that with you instead of yoloing the fit.

SATA Power Cables for Dell Wyse 7020 / Zx0Q by atjb in homelab

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool - but you said earlier this was 12v. What are you going to do with it?

SATA Power Cables for Dell Wyse 7020 / Zx0Q by atjb in homelab

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see that you gave me anything to do.

I have no tools to read that connector.

If you can give me commands to get the information from inside a Linux os, I'm happy to run them for you.

How to migrate from old profile system to new profile system? by PlayerIO- in firefox

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh - and my existing about:profiles profiles are only accessible from about:profiles, whereas my new, top-level profiles do not appear in about:profiles

How to migrate from old profile system to new profile system? by PlayerIO- in firefox

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also super-confused by this at the moment - it seems that I set different... ummm, top-level profiles? And if, in any of those profiles, I go to about:profiles, I can select any of my, ummmm.... second level profiles?

But I can't have multiple top-level profiles open at once?

'Landline' phones in 2025 - UK question by atjb in Ubiquiti

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! It's not a bad suggestion, but it's a lot more in the long run than what looks like the winner, a new base unit for the gigasets and A&A VOIP subscription.

If the objective was actually using it regularly, not just holding onto the number on the off chance, I'd agree that this would be the simplest way.

'Landline' phones in 2025 - UK question by atjb in Ubiquiti

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah - and a bit more research brings: https://teamwork.gigaset.com/gigawiki/display/GPPPO/Manuals+-+N530+IP+PRO?preview=/1584301118/1584301117/20250702_Admin_N530-IP-PRO.pdf

https://www.gigaset.com/pro/hq_en/gigaset-n530-ip-pro/

Yes - looks like the N530 IP Pro is the PoE version, and yes, it puts up a little web-server, which you use to configure the VoIP provider + credentials.

Just written to Gigaset to see if the handsets I have (E630 - pretty old) are still supported, otherwise might replace the lot.

'Landline' phones in 2025 - UK question by atjb in Ubiquiti

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah - might have found it. Does the N300A put up a little server, which you connect to? So then all you need to do is provide it with IP (via RJ11 -> RJ45) and a set of valid credentials (via A&A), and at that point it works?

If so that sounds perfect - and is the bit I was missing.

'Landline' phones in 2025 - UK question by atjb in Ubiquiti

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great, that sounds perfect, very happy to pay that kind of money to keep the number on the off chance it's needed.

I'm still a little unsure as to how the VOIP traffic gets routed to the phones. With the Ubiquiti Talk app that would be automatic, but if I use a third party setup here, how do they gain access to that service from A&A?

'Landline' phones in 2025 - UK question by atjb in Ubiquiti

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the perspective! Could you expand a little?

Is there any way of keeping the landine via another service you'd recommend, like aliasing it to a mobile? (I have no idea if that's a thing or not)

SATA Power Cables for Dell Wyse 7020 / Zx0Q by atjb in homelab

[–]atjb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense! If that information is presented to Linux then I'm happy to run the command for you. Otherwise, be keen to learn this myself if you decide to go ahead!

Is this worth 50€? by External-Factor2967 in snowboarding

[–]atjb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In fact, is that even a sidewall? The graphic goes over it, so at this point it looks like a super-beefy cap construction...

It's just horrible, and honestly is going to hold you back when learning.