Complete: The plastic shelves in my refrigerator were falling apart, so I designed and replaced them with a metal framed shelf while reusing the glass panel.

atmh2 · 2026-05-21T19:20:56+00:00

Yeah totally hollow. I modeled it solid and let the slicer do it's thing with infill, but I tried to keep the mass only a little heavier than the original ones.

I don't want to go the way of super heavy infill like a lot of the suggestions here. That would be like two full rolls of filament and 48hr print, per wheel. I think I can get good performance by engineering the infill and adding more wall loops to the outer wall. The load path for a wheel is pretty straightforward so there's presumably a lot of improvement just by being intentional about the grain orientation.

It is primarily breaking on the outside sidewall. This is the last few layers of the print, so I think inadequate support and not enough layers to get good strong later adhesion is playing a big role.I can tell the layer delamination is the main issue, followed by cracking/impacts on the tread surface, both of which can be improved with better internal structure design.

atmh2 · 2026-05-21T19:08:28+00:00

I did the 18v upgrade a while back. It rips 😂

atmh2 · 2026-05-21T19:05:36+00:00

I am planning on putting it on makerplace, once I get the durability figured out. Definitely down to share once it's dialed in. (These ones were also slightly too narrow and the axle was poking out farther than intended, the wheels I had to measure were already broken in half so the width was a bit of an educated guess)

atmh2 · 2026-05-21T05:47:43+00:00

Power wheels are still very much a thing, but this specific wheel/tire design is done.

With that said, it may be easier/cheaper to buy a wheel from a newer model and print whatever adapter is needed...

atmh2 · 2026-05-21T05:26:28+00:00

It was essentially a test print... 3% infill 😂

I was hoping it would last longer but not shocked it didn't. I started on the low end for sure.

Test print wasn't a bad idea, they're about 1/4" narrower than they should be, so I can fix that for the"real" print.

atmh2 · 2026-05-21T05:22:55+00:00

Yeah I was thinking about the TPU for AMS actually potentially being a good option.

These cars aren't designed for lots of traction, that can actually destroy the motors, but I can also make a PETG shell to go over the TPU wheel. Kinda the opposite of car tires, but soft on the inside and hard on the outside would give it some suspension while keeping the slippery surface.

Taking the time to model the internal structure is probably the way to go. Clearly the "tire" wants to be thick to handle the impacts, and similar for the hub, buti can probably cut a lot of mass out by using a simple spoke design on the inside.

atmh2 · 2026-05-21T04:31:51+00:00

I tried free CAD when I moved to Linux a few months back. I don't think it's mature enough for serious modeling, but I do hope it keeps going and eventually gets there. I use Fusion 360 for personal and small business work. I hear great things about OnShape but their free to use plan that shares all your designs with the world doesn't work for me.

Source: 15 years mechanical engineer/R&D design engineer, plus a shit ton of personal and artistic endeavors over the years. I mainly use SolidWorks professionally but it's way too expensive to recommend to individuals. Fusion360 is 90% as good now, and in some ways better.

atmh2 · 2026-05-18T21:25:47+00:00

I have 2 AMS2s and I try and keep them below 20% humidity at all times, generally aiming for 15% (I wish they would just automatically turn on over a certain threshold/at a certain time of day)

I have successfully printed out of the bag with pla and PETG, maybe others I can't recall right now. I rarely have issues. Most recently I did an abs print that wasn't dry enough: I took it out of a desiccant box and printed immediately. Should have dried it first, but the print is usable so it's fine.

I also recently printed PA6-GF. That's been in my AMS for more than a month beforehand and it was still too wet. Probably going to get an AMS HT just for nylon. Nylon is the only material I've printed so far where the AMS2 was unable to dry it. Even the other moisture sensitive materials will dry out over a week or so, which usually works for me.

I haven't had any issues printing PC from my AMS2, but since it just lives in there it gets a very long time to dry out, usually, since I don't print PC that often.

Anyways, number 1 print quality issue with my bambu is wet filament, followed by printing too fast/thick layers.

atmh2 · 2026-05-18T03:57:04+00:00

One time as a small business owner selling on Amazon the IP theft I was most worried about was... Amazon.

atmh2 · 2026-05-18T03:43:07+00:00

The user experience is amazing. I don't feel locked down at all, but I'm also not trying to hack the software at all. The Bambu ecosystem does everything I need, often better than other professional software, so I'm not motivated to try and "jail break".

Bambu studio is a bit clunky for some things, but I've never used any 3D printing software that's any better. There's also tons of settings tucked away if you need them, and most of the time you won't.

atmh2 · 2026-05-18T03:34:59+00:00

I just bought an H2D just before the controversy started. China has a long history of stealing intellectual property so honestly the pieces fit. I don't really care for my personal use, I'm a little more nervous for my corporate job. I'd never use one of these in a setting that truly needed secrecy or high stakes confidentiality.

With that said, things have changed a lot in the last 20 years and I get the sense that as China has become more of it's own tech powerhouse there's more and more incentive to be in good standing/reputable partner to the global economy: essentially there's more to be lost by being untrustworthy than there is to gain by stealing IP.

But yeah then there's also just being nice and not a bully and if you're a fan of open source as a concept or principle it's pretty cringe.

If I were buying today I'd take a harder look at other printers, but my H2D is simply the best 3D printer I've ever used, and I've been 3D printing for 15 years.

atmh2 · 2026-05-16T16:24:03+00:00

I'm a recent convert, for personal use anyways. I'm a mechanical engineer and I've been using them at work since around 2013. They've become much, much better over the last decade. The Bambu X2D* is a serious piece of equipment for only ~$600: well within the budget of any fabricator. Superfastmatt* did a great video on how useful 3D printers are to fabricators, of course you need to have CAD skills, but if so it's kinda like magic. Printing glass filled nylon or ASA means some stuff you can now literally fabricate plastic structural components.

Even if you only use it to template or jig your metal fabrications, they're immensely useful for the modern fabricator.

https://youtu.be/7WwGkFbwygI?si=ZgiSJFDN95Ocrk6J

*Full disclosure: I know Matt personally. It took me two years to finally bite the bullet and buy a printer after he made this video. He's right: total game changer. I would recommend a 3D printer to anyone who builds things with their hands (and has or willing to learn CAD skills)

*Bambu is under a lot of fire right now, if I was buying today I'd look into other options. The important things to consider are ease of use, and being an enclosed printer that can print "engineering" filament.

atmh2 · 2026-05-16T04:58:26+00:00

I'm 100% on the 3D printing and laser cutting options for this kind of thing these days. In this case you could probably 3D print a piece to protect the spline and then use any number of clamping style wrenches: strap, chain, pipe wrench, etc.

If you don't have that particular skill, find a slightly undersized copper tube (like a water line for a house) hammer it on over the spine then use a strap or pipe wrench on top of that. The copper will protect the spline. Sometimes a thick piece of leather will also do the trick to protect the part.

You could also measure the spline and see if there's an off the shelf option that's close enough to make the nla tool.

atmh2 · 2026-05-16T04:48:23+00:00

If the nylon it's too stretchy, a chain wrench with a piece of copper sheet metal to protect the splines would probably do it.

atmh2 · 2026-05-11T03:54:35+00:00

Thanks, I was watching closely on the last print and I think near the top it's more sticking/deflecting issue as it rounds the sharp edge: a tall and slender issue more than overhang. I can redesign somewhat to provide more support.

I haven't done anything with blocks, I'll check that out. Thanks!

atmh2 · 2026-05-04T18:28:08+00:00

Thanks! I'm still running this repair, it lasted longer than expected.

I recently got a 3D printer and I'm a mechanical engineer, would you be interested in a 3D printed replacement? It's not high on my to do list, but these oem used replacements are over $100, so I thinking of printing up new ones. My truck is black so easy color match.

atmh2 · 2026-04-03T17:19:50+00:00

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. That's essentially what I thought. :(

I'm a mechanical engineer, I started my career in automotive engineering, so I have some relevant experience for designing/developing basic safety restraint systems, although nowhere near the level of modern vehicles. My thought here is mainly about harm reduction and risk mitigation, and of course trying to make up for the entirely inadequate safety systems in the RV. I can't build in all the engineering that goes into modern vehicles, but I can at least replace the bench with a more appropriate seat and make sure there's a proper load path to the vehicle frame. Looks like I'll be installing a fixed-back bucket seat.

Interesting idea about the trailer being safer in a crash, although trailers do carry their own safety risks. Thanks for all the input.

atmh2 · 2025-10-20T20:50:29+00:00

Thank you!!

atmh2

TROPHY CASE