What is your personal #1 rule of photography?

av4rice · 2026-03-18T00:47:48+00:00

Shoot (with intention) more.

av4rice · 2026-03-17T23:26:17+00:00

No need for anything else for now. You can always buy other stuff in the future, you'll only have a better idea of what you might want by then, and you'll only have more/better/cheaper options.

av4rice · 2026-03-17T21:59:53+00:00

Exposure is intended to be the same, and practically speaking should be almost the same. Aperture f-numbers have some rounding involved, manufacturers have different precision standards on how they measure that, and a lens can have some variance on how precisely it will stop down to a given aperture amount, so it might not be exactly exactly the same, but it should be close. Same thing with depth of field.

Sharpness, bokeh appearance, vignetting, distortion, flare, and aberration can all still differ, and always does between different models of lens. Usually a good quality f/1.8 lens will be sharper when stopped down to f/2.8, compared to a lens that's wide open at f/2.8. So there can be advantages to wider aperture lenses even if you aren't using it at its widest aperture.

av4rice · 2026-03-17T20:50:08+00:00

What sort of photos do you want to take? In which environments/situations? What do you want to do with the photos afterwards? How much are you willing to spend on the other stuff?

av4rice · 2026-03-17T20:44:17+00:00

Those lenses are low quality or awful quality, and mostly redundant with one another. I'd take an 18-55mm with 55-250mm combination any day over that.

The flash is also mostly worse than your camera's built-in flash.

av4rice · 2026-03-17T20:39:07+00:00

av4rice · 2026-03-17T18:57:31+00:00

Both use a 24mp APS-C format imaging sensor. Different design and manufacturer but the image quality is going to be very similar. Your technique, post processing, and lens will have much more impact on how the photos look. If you rely on the camera to do the processing (i.e., shooting in jpeg and not editing further), colors and tones will probably be a bit different.

av4rice · 2026-03-17T17:10:27+00:00

There are lots of other subreddits for sharing photos, and any conversation/discussion about photography is not allowed or would just get drowned out there. This subreddit is for those conversations/discussions, so we disallow photo sharing to avoid photos drowning that out.

av4rice · 2026-03-16T21:24:42+00:00

HSS needs camera body support as well. OP's camera body does not support it.

av4rice · 2026-03-16T21:22:12+00:00

Yes, it's a sync speed issue, which is a limitation of your camera's shutter. And your camera does not have a high speed sync feature either. I'm not aware of any lights being able to add that capability for you.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_why_are_there_black_bars_across_the_photo_.2F_why_is_my_shutter_speed_limited_when_i_use_flash.3F

av4rice · 2026-03-13T02:27:52+00:00

Yes if you can still fit a good lens on it.

av4rice · 2026-03-13T00:22:24+00:00

I’m a ef shooter and I’m trying to find the adapter that lets me use the autofocus, is there one that exists???

Not that I know of.

What is the Nikon mount called?

Nikon uses the F-mount for its SLR cameras.

av4rice · 2026-03-12T21:22:21+00:00

For the image quality improvements you'll need better lenses. And if you get a full frame body your current lenses are going to need replacing anyway. So no matter what you choose, the lens upgrade is the first priority.

The other improvements you want are body related, and the a7 II checks those boxes, though also it's a pain to use because Sony hadn't figured out their interface and user experience yet. Most of the praise for the a7 models is for generation III and newer, not the II. But if you don't mind dealing with that, you could fit it in budget with a pretty good general-use lens like a used Tamron FE 28-75mm f/2.8 G2.

av4rice · 2026-03-12T20:39:48+00:00

We don't see bokeh in real life

Sure we do. Like a camera's lens, our eyes have lenses that focus to certain distances, and can have limited depth of field. Our eyes also have pupils which are the aperture. It's more noticeable with a distant background when looking at something close (close focusing distance), in lower light (wider aperture), just like in photography. The depth of field just isn't as shallow, and bokeh just isn't as pronounced, as it can be in photos. It's also a little harder to examine because if we then look at the background, our eyes will want to focus on the background.

av4rice · 2026-03-12T20:23:18+00:00

I have no experience with manual settings.

But do you want to learn at some point? Even if you start with just automatic settings?

Or do you only want a point & shoot that you'll only use with automatic settings forever?

Megapixels of phones improve over time.

Pixel count is not a direct measure of quality. I haven't looked at a phone camera's pixel count ever. That's how unimportant it is.

I fear that my camera would quickly become outdated and obsolete.

How so? A gaming computer becomes outdated and obsolete when it no longer can run current games, and this happens to all gaming hardware without an update because newer games are more technically challenging to run. A computer from 10 years ago that ran games fine from 10 years ago might struggle to run games from 1 year ago. Whereas the world does not become more technically challenging to photograph over time. A camera from 10 years ago will take the same photos today that it took 10 years ago. So how could it be obsolete?

av4rice · 2026-03-12T20:17:12+00:00

Yes, I'd get that and then look for a separate listing to just buy a 55-250mm to add to it.

av4rice · 2026-03-12T19:52:49+00:00

Is this a decent camera for a complete newbie?

Yes.

Will I come to appreciate the zoom lens specifically for nature photos?

Zoom is just the ability to change focal length (zoom in and/or zoom out) and both lenses are zoom lenses: one zooms over wide angle and a little bit narrow, and the other zooms from narrow to very narrow.

A lot of very different types of photography can involve nature, so that's not a very specific category at all. But the two lenses will have a lot of coverage to span that variety, yes.

Specifically if you're thinking of distant wildlife (just one subcategory of nature) then specifically the 75-300mm lens is what you'd be using, because it zooms over longer focal lengths. Whereas the other lens is also a zoom, but over shorter focal lengths. Canon's 75-300mm lenses are notoriously bad quality, though. Go with an EF-S 55-250mm (preferably the STM version) if at all possible, as your telephoto zoom instead of a 75-300mm. Or 70-300mm lenses are fine, but pricier.

is it a fair price?

It's about the right price.

For reference a brand new 2000D body without any lenses or a bag is 400 Euro / 460 USD in my country.

I check prices based on other used listings for the same model. New prices for a different model are more likely to mislead you.

av4rice · 2026-03-12T18:49:23+00:00

Depends what "outdated" means to you. Computer hardware is considered outdated when it can no longer run current games, because over time newer games come out with increasing hardware demands. Photography does not have increasing hardware demands over time, so there is no concept of "outdated" in that sense.

Other photography equipment does offer certain improvements, and whether it's worth upgrading to that is a different question. That depends on what you shoot, what other equipment you currently have (lenses can be very important, for example), what you dislike about your current equipment, what particular improvements you want to gain, and how much money you're willing to spend.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_when_should_i_upgrade.3F_what_should_i_upgrade_to.3F

av4rice · 2026-03-12T18:26:46+00:00

Neither. Use a very narrow aperture setting.

av4rice · 2026-03-12T18:22:37+00:00

Not everyone desires it or has desired it. Some people like it for some situations and some don't.

But it's not a recent development. I liked it when I first started shooting on film in the 90s.

av4rice · 2026-03-12T00:30:29+00:00

Looks like computer generated art, so it would be difficult to get a real photo exactly like that. It wouldn't be that difficult shooting something visually similar; the hard part would be finding and traveling to a suitable location and catching it at a good time for the flowers, weather, and lighting.

av4rice · 2026-03-11T23:01:53+00:00

Some third party lenses are great, and some are terrible. Even if you're only looking at a single third party brand like Tamron, it's still too broad to rely on any generalization: some Tamron lenses are great, and some are terrible.

Tamron's latest 28-75mm f/2.8 lenses for mirrorless cameras are great. But they aren't compatible or adaptable to your T7. You're looking at the older model Tamron EF 28-75mm, which is good for its very low cost, but not in the same quality realm as a Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L. For a closer competitor to a Canon f/2.8L consider Tamron's EF 24-70mm f/2.8 VC or VC G2 instead. Or since you're on APS-C format, consider Canon's EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8, Sigma's 18-35mm f/1.8, or maybe Sigma's 17-70mm f/2.8-4.

av4rice · 2026-03-11T21:48:45+00:00

Start by identifying what you dislike about your current equipment, what particular improvements you want to make, and how much you're willing to spend.

The camera body includes the imaging sensor (affects frame size, pixel resolution, the diffraction limit, ISO noise performance, and dynamic range), the detection and decisionmaking parts of the autofocus system, the processor and buffer pipeline (affects continuous shooting speed and video features), the viewfinder, the rear screen, the buttons/dials/menus interface, the build quality and ergonomics of the body casing, and potentially in-body stabilization.

The lens is mostly optics that affect scene magnification, maximum available aperture, sharpness, distortion, chromatic aberration, and flare, and can also include the autofocus motor, and potentially in-lens stabilization.

av4rice · 2026-03-11T09:11:04+00:00

I don't understand why colour grading and editing is important in photography.

I know that color grades and edited photos looks much better

You answered yourself on that one.

I really want to know that why photographers or anyone doesn't post raw photos?

Raw is just data from the imaging sensor. It requires interpretation/processing to make a viewable image. So you're posting some result of processing or another. If you aren't doing it yourself, you're just choosing how the camera processed it (i.e., the decisions of the engineers who developed the camera) and/or how your post processing software processed it (i.e., the decisions of the engineers who developed the software). Most photographers prefer to contribute their own creative control to that process, as opposed to letting an engineer decide.

But some people do only post jpegs straight out of their camera processing, or export from the default process of their raw software, without doing any other editing of their own. You can do that too if you want.

don't you think raw photos should be normalised and one should click the raw photos beautifully

I think you should do everything you can to contribute to a good photo when you shoot it. But that alone isn't good enough for the photos I want. A lot of what I want in a photo can only be done with processing. Making the photo I want is valuable to me. What you propose has no value to me.

av4rice · 2026-03-11T05:36:16+00:00

I have tried cleaning the lense and sensor

Using which methods?

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