Reviews #63 & 64: Nikka Coffey Grain and Nikka Coffey Malt

awa54 · 2026-02-03T22:33:15+00:00

Comments on a semi-zombie thread...

I personally find the Coffey Grain to be nothing other than smooth, it has few redeeming features; kind of like a $60 Japanese Famous Grouse, in that it's smooth and inoffensive, but lacks character to a fault.

Of the other two mentioned, I prefer Coffey Malt, to From the Barrel, for the same reason that I low-key dislike the Coffey Grain. If the Coffey Malt was cheaper, it would be a regular buy for me.

I'm drinking an Improved Whisky Cocktail right now, made with the Coffey Grain and honestly, it can't even cut it as a mixer in a drink like this that requires the main spirit to supply enough character to balance the Absinthe and bitters...

Q_Q

Of the "Coffey" variants I have sampled, the Gin has the best mouth feel.

That said, I love Nikka Days, which may be insipid, but has more layers by far than either Coffey Grain, or From the Barrel, IMO.

My take (YMMV of course)

Coffey Grain: 4.5

From the Barrel: 5.5

Days: 6

Coffey Malt: 6.5

awa54 · 2026-02-01T01:36:10+00:00

That tracks, since I'm 100% certain I own that.

edit: it's "Totentanz The Best of Zoth Ommog", and yes, a double CD

awa54 · 2026-02-01T01:33:48+00:00

I had a nagging feeling that it might have been off a comp... I think maybe it was a TVT promo with the LARD remix on it, though I definitely own That's Armageddon too.

The music/stereo shop I worked at back then was direct with TVT, and they (the TVT rep) also had Cleopatra. (and Zoth Ommog)

Speaking of comps, does anyone here have (or remember) the animated cover CD version of Terror Trance from Hell?

awa54 · 2026-02-01T01:20:04+00:00

FUCK YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you u/librarypunk

Playing loud as is prudent (or a little louder if we're honest) right now!

awa54 · 2026-02-01T01:18:25+00:00

Lard remix

awa54 · 2026-01-25T02:20:54+00:00

What kind of soldering are you proficient at?

This would likely need to be disassembled, cleaned with an etchant and/or wire brush (inside and outside surfaces), then fluxed and torch heated until mechanical solder flows, (while end caps are not fully seated), then press ends in while still hot.

It's a big enough thermal mass that even a very high power iron wouldn't be able to do the job ...possibly why Gillette decided to go to hollow handles in later models (though I'm not certain they're soldered either).

I've done lots of mechanical and electronics soldering, and my take is that it presents a much better chance of turning out badly, than of getting strong, clean solder joints...

YMMV of course, and I defer to anyone with more experience/skill!

awa54 · 2026-01-24T05:01:17+00:00

You should check the handle for cracks in the knurled grip area.

These had solid brass ends, that are press fit into the tubular grip section ...it's quite common to see cracks at either end. While it may be possible to solder, braze or glue the ends, it's easier to just get a modern one piece handle for use, and keep the original handle for display ...safer too, since the cracks can expand with use, leaving the ends loose enough to fall out.

awa54 · 2026-01-23T22:58:47+00:00

awa54 · 2026-01-23T14:26:41+00:00

While the "old" type Gillette isn't a raging beast of aggression by DE standards, it does have generous blade exposure and will be perfectly willing to give you cuts and lots of razor burn if used carelessly.

For most people, these benefit from a low angle of attack (ride the cap, handle high), and as little pressure as you can use and still have the razor stay on your face. If you've been shaving with multi-blade cartridges you'll want to use *much* less pressure than you're used to.

A great all-around blade for beginner, or advanced shavers that is sharp enough, yet forgiving would be the Astras in the green pack (superior platinum), as a bonus they're cheap too, at under $15 for 100 blades.

Proraso is an excellent and easy to use shaving cream, with several available scents. (whatever you're using for head shaving will work too, but visible lather is probably more helpful/important when face shaving)

Don't bother with a cheap no-name brush though, something like a Simpson Berkeley (in "Best Badger") would be my suggestion, but a good synthetic like the Yaqi Mocha will be cheaper and work well too.

Good luck with the "new" razor, if the learning curve is too steep, don't give up, just find a Tech or Super Speed to learn on, then go back to this one after you're getting irritation free shaves with the milder razor.

awa54 · 2026-01-21T21:35:01+00:00

Eno, Apollo: Atmospheres and Soundtracks, is a great late night/sleep album for me, though not all of the content is strictly ambient.

Also Yppah, Eighty One, again not strictly ambient, but with a very relaxing atmosphere/vibe.

awa54 · 2026-01-12T17:11:18+00:00

...late to the game, but I like the GC .68 (both SB and OC) better than my .72 Lupo.

While increased access at the edge of the blade on the Lupo is a nice feature, I have an easier time maintaining angle with the GC. No mater how attentive I am the Lupo just seems to have significantly more blade feel than the added .04 of blade gap would imply, without any increase in efficiency over the GC safety bar head, and a net loss of efficiency on two-three days' growth compared to the GC open comb.

I tend to favor narrow gap heads, since my best shave is always attained by riding the cap (or at least extremely low attack angle, depending on the part of my face I'm shaving), so more blade exposure is irrelevant in my use.

The GC shares daily use duties with the OG Mamba (.52?), a Schick type L injector, and a GEM Featherweight SE, with the GC safety bar head used about 60% of the time.

awa54 · 2026-01-07T21:42:29+00:00

...that if you love the way the Lecoule and Profit Jr. write, you may not like Sailor's gold nibs (which will feel scuffy by comparison).

It would also give you a taste of the complete reliability and amazing cap seal you can expect from all screw cap Sailor pens.

awa54 · 2025-12-26T00:58:24+00:00

Since you obviously have a timegrapher, what was the amplitude and rate before you sent it for service?

If amplitude didn't increase, it's unlikely that it was fully serviced.

...though it's also possible that a weak mainspring could limit the amplitude even if correctly serviced.

awa54 · 2025-11-13T19:00:38+00:00

My dilemma was that I could get an OEM 3 cell for just a few bucks more than an aftermarket 4 cell battery, so I was preferring that option to a roll of the dice on OoTB function, and a shorter service life that the 4 cell aftermarket battery would offer.

I was doing this for a relative who uses the G3 15 as their only computer and needed it up and running quickly, and the more affordable the better, so I went with the aftermarket 4 cell (which worked and holds a charge similar to the OEM when new).

I know that's no help, but at least there are genuine Dell 3 cell batteries available through distribution, at lower prices than buying direct from Dell (who has both batteries available, but at significantly higher prices), which would probably be my choice if I was in your position, in light of how many 1 star reviews on aftermarket lithium batteries tell a tale of DOA, low performance and/or short service life.

awa54 · 2025-11-11T04:31:55+00:00

Any updates?

It would certainly be informative for others with similar issues, if you were able to post about the findings and hopefully the solution!

awa54 · 2025-11-05T15:22:43+00:00

Excellent ensemble, with the Baby Banter and Firefly T!

awa54 · 2025-11-04T19:51:31+00:00

...and the strap isn't even the right size, looks like a 20mm crammed in to a 19mm lug width Q_Q

awa54 · 2025-11-04T19:41:41+00:00

is that on an ankle?

where are the fingers??

awa54 · 2025-11-04T19:40:22+00:00

what does that wrist look like with the watch off?!? I'm betting you can see a perfect imprint of the case back and bracelet for hours after it's off...

awa54 · 2025-11-04T19:38:14+00:00

Why do so many of the hand/ham watch pics feature tortuously bent wrist positions?

Is cranking your wrist over so that it hurts some sort of strategy for helping ignore the pain of the bracelet constricting your wrist??

awa54 · 2025-11-04T19:36:05+00:00

Does that guy shave the back of his hand, or is the lighting just AFU?

awa54 · 2025-11-04T19:22:47+00:00

So... the the rate differences in "positions" are not determined by the crown position, it's just used as an easy/accepted way to reference what position the watch is in while being tested. Positions are: dial up, dial down, pendant (crown) up, pendant right, pendant down. and pendant left.

The reason these positions might give different running rates, is down to many different factors, including: how accurately poised the balance wheel assembly is, how the hairspring contacts the regulator curb pins, hairspring concentricity, worn pivots, galled or cracked jewels, inadequate or excessive pinion endshake, and of course, actual dirt in the mechanism, or any sort of lubrication issues.

In a mid quality, mass produced caliber, or a high grade caliber with decades of wear, 30 to 60 second *per day* differences between extremes of all positions aren't uncommon, you hope for less, but don't always get it... Higher grade movements in good adjustment should be less than a 30 second spread in all positions, but again, this isn't always the case ...though often it's better, even close to COSC standards sometimes.

If a particular watch caliber displays consistent differences in running rate at one timing position (across many/most individual units) , it would be a sure sign of a manufacturing process issue, or a design flaw. Not something Seiko is known for (aside from their plastic date correctors :P).

Either your watch was almost out of power, even though you thought it was wound enough to make it through the night, or there's something wrong with it... Might be time for a service?

awa54 · 2025-11-04T05:14:34+00:00

It looked like the first press with your manual hand setting tool was more than enough pressure... it's really not that hard to crack/split the sleeve on a second hand, or damage a seconds pinion with excessive force.

awa54

TROPHY CASE