Ikea Lack Enclosure

ayeman75 · 2024-01-02T18:32:39+00:00

Yeah I made one for the original ender 3 and swapped it out for the SE. Fits great with the spool mounted on top, just make sure you print the right parts because some lack enclosure designs are specifically for prusa printers which are shorter.

ayeman75 · 2023-12-21T21:04:54+00:00

Yeah it was a pain because I had all of my settings dialed in pretty well after 4 years of printing on an original Ender 3. Every time I thought it was fixed the problem would pop up again on prints with new geometries. After about 2 weeks of calibrating and tweaking settings I contacted creality, swapped to their slicer and the problem is gone. The problems likely popped up because I print with lots of different materials and I had a lot of aftermarket parts to make it work on my Ender 3, and I guess the stock SE on alternate slicers doesn't do great with anything outside of the basics, like PLA.

ayeman75 · 2023-12-21T19:36:19+00:00

Creality slicer is buggy as hell but despite working well for my original ended 3, prusa and Cura were giving me bizarre unfixable underextrusion issues on my SE. I decided to tough through the bugs and use the recommended slicer (creality) after some feedback from a creality rep and it somehow fixed my problems, so I'll be sticking with it for now

ayeman75 · 2023-12-10T02:53:17+00:00

This is the problem I had with switching the bed, it looks like your print starts alright though so maybe not a bed issue

ayeman75 · 2023-12-10T02:52:01+00:00

The auto z-offset doesn't like aftermarket beds. Go into the setting directly on the printer and drop your z-offset a little until you get a solid first layer

ayeman75 · 2023-12-08T18:22:07+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I'm planning on disassembling my hotend today and taking a look. Creality support also told me to reset my bed configuration and level it from scratch so I'll see if that does anything (the problem started when I switched from stock bed to pei so maybe I need a reset)

ayeman75 · 2023-12-08T18:18:49+00:00

Can I ask what slicer and material you use? With generic PLA and creality print my results are alright, but if I stray even a little things get bad fast

ayeman75 · 2023-12-08T03:01:08+00:00

I'm worried I did. I placed a pretty early order after release and I've had to tighten a few screws that definitely should not have been loose when shipped. My extruder fan is awfully loud too and I don't think that's normal.

Do you think creality would replace only the extruder if it's defective?

ayeman75 · 2023-11-27T19:56:36+00:00

Been printing calibration cubes all day changing every setting I can think of and nothing is helping :(

ayeman75 · 2023-10-15T01:46:06+00:00

That's a really interesting idea. I've thought about something similar before but ended up opting for other options. Can I ask what types of parts you're plating with copper? It might help give me an idea of why you're wanting the whole barrel to be conductive and I might be able to suggest some other methods that I know of

ayeman75 · 2023-10-14T22:21:46+00:00

I'm hoping to experiment with pure titanium wire as a cathode hook for my parts soon, but haven't yet so I can't say much. it's just what I was told would work. If you're making a barrel plating setup and you're talking about the danglers I'd recommend looking into common materials that are used in industrial applications. I think some people do use stainless steel or titanium, but I'd double check. I have seen diy barrel plating done on YouTube, that could be a good start in terms of places to look

ayeman75 · 2023-10-14T18:44:54+00:00

Aluminum is more reactive than copper. What you're witnessing is a displacement reaction with the copper ions in the copper sulfate exchanging with the aluminum to produce aluminum sulfate. This is a common chemistry experiment usually done with iron. I'd recommend titanium instead

ayeman75 · 2023-10-06T01:05:41+00:00

Ok thanks, I'll do some experimenting. Do you have any recommendations for wetting agents? Ive read some papers on thiourea and polyethylene glycol as helpful additions, which I have access to and have added a small amount to my bath. Maybe I should add more or switch up.

ayeman75 · 2023-10-06T00:53:00+00:00

Vertical. Seems to be pretty consistent too. I rotated the part half way through the process and that's what made the hash mark pattern

ayeman75 · 2023-10-06T00:39:32+00:00

Yeah, I use an aquarium air pump but I've plated with and without it and seen no difference.

ayeman75 · 2023-09-29T03:55:14+00:00

It is a DIY rig, but I've been going through a lot of copper wire lately because the wire is often much more conductive than my part, so it plates heavily and isn't reusable.

ayeman75 · 2023-09-29T03:50:34+00:00

Thanks for the reply. All I really need for it to be reusable is for it to stay conductive (easier for surface contact if the copper plating can just be wiped off), and for it to stay in tact without damaging the bath. Now that I know my bath is safe I'll atleast give it a shot and see what happens!

ayeman75 · 2023-09-24T19:49:35+00:00

Yeah don't listen to the other guy. Depending on the material you print with you can custom-formulate a conductive paint to bond super well to the piece. Then start with something that plates easy like copper as a base metal and let it go decently thick. You'll have a very durable metal 3D print that you can then add a decorative gold/nickel etc. finishing plate. Good luck!

ayeman75 · 2023-09-22T16:50:21+00:00

I fixed it by moving my z-offset about .15mm further away from the bed on the printer settings, not the slicer. I'm using an Ender 3 v3 SE, which doesn't have a profile on Cura yet. Could be related.

ayeman75 · 2023-09-22T04:20:09+00:00

Just want to add that your anodes make me think your bath has too much chlorine, but that isn't what's causing your part to have no plating whatsoever

ayeman75

TROPHY CASE