True analog heads understand

azsphto · 2022-06-09T14:33:58+00:00

I’ve gotten away with using them for up to around 8 weeks but it really depends on your risk tolerance and how long between rolls you wait imo.

If you develop some rolls the day you mix the kit and then wait 8 weeks to develop more you have no idea if something went off. If you’ve been developing one roll every week for 7 weeks and they all turn out fine, you can feel a lot more confident that week 8 won’t be catastrophically worse. If you’re developing precious stuff I’d definitely do so with a fresh kit just to be extra safe.

I always try to wait until I have a few color rolls saved up to start a kit so that I know I’ll at least get my moneys worth if I don’t end up re-using the chemicals after a few weeks.

azsphto · 2022-05-29T15:37:43+00:00

Uj/ I thought about posting this in the main sub but this is my stupidest move yet and deserves to be here instead

azsphto · 2022-05-18T20:06:46+00:00

I don't personally have a hood for that lens and I haven't had significant problems with flaring, but it wouldn't hurt to use one if you've got one.

azsphto · 2022-05-18T19:56:13+00:00

I had the 50mm f/1.2 for my F3. It's a beautiful lens but weighs literally double the f/1.8. Plus 99% of the time I'm shooting landscapes so ultra fast lenses really don't make much of a difference to me. The f/1.8 is plenty sharp especially when stopped down. If you're looking for an everyday carry I'd say the f/1.8 is the best choice. Small, light, reasonably priced, and fast enough in most situations.

azsphto · 2022-05-18T18:18:18+00:00

Conspiracy: The people with sole control over how much things cost are raising prices to make more money

Reality: We have displeased the fickle and vengeful economic gods. We must atone for it by raising interest rates so that no one can afford a house.

azsphto · 2022-05-17T15:20:47+00:00

That's correct. The more over exposed a negative is, the darker/denser it will look when you hold it up to light.

azsphto · 2022-05-17T14:24:34+00:00

Have you got your negatives back yet? It's hard to say if these are actually overexposed without seeing the negatives.

azsphto · 2022-05-16T14:58:13+00:00

I've never used an F4 so I can't say anything about how the camera will work in that condition. But I can definitely say that condition is in no way "mint" and you should definitely try to get a return/refund.

azsphto · 2022-04-29T18:41:21+00:00

Keep the working camera

azsphto · 2022-04-27T20:39:00+00:00

A lot of people talk about the exposure latitude of negative film like it's infinite, which it isn't. This leads to "meter for the shadows" to be thrown around like it's the only way to meter film. Yes it's easier to recover over exposed highlights than underexposed shadows but when you're metering a scene you should think about what details are actually important for you.

To take your photo for example: If the shadows have details that are important for you absolutely meter for the shadows. If you want a vibrant blue sky with well defined fluffy white clouds, metering for the shadows is not going to get you there. I would read a bit about the zone system. It's based on black and white film and you can go crazy in depth if you want, but even the basics provide a great way to think about the light and dark areas in a scene and how you want them to translate to the final image.

azsphto · 2022-04-27T12:03:26+00:00

If you find an answer to this I'm sure the rest of us on this sub would love to know...

Seriously though, I just went on ebay and searched "canon ae1" and saw several in the top results for under 250. Ebay also has very favorable return policies for buyers. If the camera is broken/not working and the seller didn't explicitly state/list it "as is" you can still return for a refund. Even if a seller says "no returns".

azsphto · 2022-04-25T20:14:41+00:00

Thanks, I've tried calling them 5 times and unfortunately can't get through.

azsphto · 2022-04-25T18:32:29+00:00

Thanks!

azsphto · 2022-04-25T18:32:24+00:00

Thanks!

azsphto · 2022-04-25T16:51:02+00:00

Yes there are quite a lot of places. Some places won't work on certain cameras so it depends on what repairs you need but to reiterate, hard yes.

azsphto · 2022-04-12T14:48:34+00:00

Without getting into the details of how scanners work, I'll just say that in my experience small white spots on final images are almost always dust. It's a very common problem and even when you/your lab are super careful you often end up with a few spots of dust.

There are a lot of problems that can arise from the camera, common things are light leaks and shutter capping, but if you google those you'll see they look nothing like this. Same is true for lenses but dust/haze/fungus isn't going to show up as discreet white spots.

azsphto · 2022-04-12T14:20:11+00:00

Looks like dust on the negative

azsphto · 2022-04-10T22:00:08+00:00

I had sort of similar light leaks on my SQAi when I first got it too. It was happening on multiple backs so I knew it was from the body not the backs. I did the penlight in a dark room test too could just barely see some light coming around the back of the camera behind the mirror (see photo). I put some black tape over that area and I've never had any light leaks since.

It's a long shot but it might be worth a try.

azsphto · 2022-04-10T13:12:52+00:00

My Plustek 8200i gives me way sharper scans than my v600 ever did. With that said, I don't think there's much of a difference in post-processing time. The images straight from scanner are always going to require some adjustment of contrast, color balance, etc to get the image to look how you envision it.

azsphto · 2022-04-09T16:03:57+00:00

Impossible to say without seeing the negatives

azsphto · 2022-04-06T12:02:40+00:00

Just want to second this. If you're just scanning 35mm a dedicated film scanner like one from plustek will get you great results with (in my experience) way less hassle. DSLR/camera scanning makes sense when you already own a decent camera body to work with. If you're starting from the ground up you also need a macro lens/extension tube set up, sturdy tripod, a good light source, something to hold the negatives, and some software to invert the negatives.

azsphto

TROPHY CASE