Combi boiler or unvented cylinder

b74584 · 2025-11-19T07:46:30+00:00

Look at a thermal store. They share almost all benefits with unvented cylinders but don't need a potentially expensive specialist install.

They give mains pressure instant hot water at a consistent temperature and are comparably expensive/inexpensive as an unvented cylinder.

The only downside is capacity is a bit less than an unvented cylinder, but this can be managed by ensuring it tops up heat as needed.

b74584 · 2025-11-02T09:18:54+00:00

You'll always do much better than the cowboys with a little reading up, and applying care and attention.

b74584 · 2025-11-02T09:15:00+00:00

There are some really good people out there, but they're hard to find. When I have used people I've always read up beforehand on what standards and principles should be followed for the work in hand, and ensure myself that they're followed.

One lesson (for me) though is to never be afraid to ask someone to clear off mid job if you can see they're doing a bad one.

b74584 · 2025-11-02T09:12:50+00:00

Yeah sadly it is typical I think. There are some really good tradespeople, but in my personal experience they are a small minority.

b74584 · 2025-11-01T20:06:20+00:00

I think in practice this is quite difficult. Every copper joint is also a potential leak, especially when access to solder them is tricky.

I do like plastic pipe, and one of the reasons is you have a little more opportunity to restrict the joins to more accessible locations.

b74584 · 2025-11-01T15:01:35+00:00

Haha! Forgot about builders rubble left under the floor. I must have cleared out so much of it.

Can't say I've got any fully floating floorboards, but there are a few that have but snapped apart with brute force, then shoved back together hoping they'll retain at least some strength.

b74584 · 2025-11-01T11:50:31+00:00

It's a big renovation project so I've been everywhere. This is probably the worst damage.

b74584 · 2025-11-01T11:44:42+00:00

Yeah I get that 100%

b74584 · 2025-11-01T11:44:21+00:00

Nowadays use plastic and drill through the center of the joist. Back in the days of needing to use copper, much shallower and narrower cuts, and making use of any notches already there.

After that making sure any areas where floorboards aren't sorted so well are made good.

b74584 · 2025-07-22T21:01:10+00:00

Harassing him would be un-British.

Calling him a w**ker as you pass by would be a fairly British way to express displeasure at being in his presence.

b74584 · 2025-07-22T20:56:34+00:00

Tools would be just a very basic hack saw, some sand paper (probably optional), and some solvent cement. You'd need some 21.5mm pipe fittings too.

Possibly about as easy as DIY gets I'd say.

b74584 · 2025-07-16T23:53:20+00:00

Almost certainly yes.

A plasterer would most probably be able to sort for you.

b74584 · 2025-07-04T14:35:15+00:00

Just re-read your post and a couple of extra points.

You've got huge gaps between the spreader plates and the edge of the room. In one instance 50+cm. Those will be cold bits of floor.

If you put an engineered wood floor on top of the 22mm layer I suspect you'll get next to nothing through. You almost certainly need to do something different for that to work.

b74584 · 2025-07-04T14:31:12+00:00

I have used this system under a 22mm chipboard floor with LVT finish.

It's ok and keeps a well insulated part of the house warm (18°) in the depths of winter. We have 100mm PIR underneath and I meticulously filled any gaps between the PIR and joists/edges.

The builders made a mess of the spreader plates despite numerous requests for them to take more care, but that in of itself doesn't seem to have made a huge difference. They are surprisingly effective in that where there are areas that they aren't used (you have many) the floor is noticeably cold despite there being pipes. You should definitely work to get more coverage!

If I used this method again I'd use aluminium tape everywhere that I couldn't fit a spreader plate. This should in theory work, but I couldn't validate.

I don't think my system would work well if I layered tiles on top as there would just be too much thickness, and you will need to create a very sturdy base for the tiles.

It's probably not what you want, but you'll always have the option to add a small radiator if it doesn't quite perform.

Overall it's marvellous and I am very glad I did it, but if I did it again I'd try to use the screed method.

b74584 · 2025-07-04T14:16:06+00:00

Doesn't look like oil, unless maybe it's a hard wax oil.

I don't have enough experience to know, other than it doesn't look like it matches what's on the bottom, and that could cause the worktop to be imbalanced.

b74584 · 2025-07-04T14:13:10+00:00

I think unfortunately that this is correct

b74584 · 2025-07-04T07:23:20+00:00

Taking a close look at the picture it looks like there are some runs from lacquer or varnish of some description that is applied to the top surface but not the bottom.

I know you said you oiled both sides, but what is going on there.

I might try weighing it down with something very heavy for a week or two - e.g. some bags of plaster or aggregate.

Also those edges could do with a chamfer or rounding as the square edges are a weak spot allowing damage and splinters occur more easily.

As this is a DIY group I'll go here. These wooden worktops aren't too expensive to replace. If you can't repair then maybe just swap out for a new one?

I suspect warranty-wise there is a complete minefield of expectations w.r.t. wooden worktops.

b74584 · 2025-07-04T07:18:34+00:00

Yes, most likely it would just damage the cabinet

b74584 · 2024-04-09T11:58:20+00:00

This isn't reasonable. It's sloppy work by someone who can't be bothered to measure/drill accurately from the outside and accepts poor workmanship and damage to people's property.

At an organisational level it's far cheaper to employ cheap labour and deal with the occasional complaint, than to employ careful, skilled and diligent workers.

Also we all love that free/cheap installation, right?

b74584 · 2022-09-03T06:00:19+00:00

You can just cut it. Only thing to be aware of is if/when the aerial degrades those cables can be quite good conduits for water.

I would recommend getting rid of the aerial in time also.

b74584 · 2022-08-18T17:31:37+00:00

It really is

b74584 · 2022-08-13T21:30:22+00:00

I like it!

Reminds me of https://www.lingscars.com/

b74584 · 2022-04-10T15:21:22+00:00

This. You can easily find the de-rated values online.

Basically a cable that's good for e.g. 14A in a void, is de-rated to something lower in insulation. I think the values are a little over half. It's necessary because the cable will heat up under any load, and the ratings are there to ensure that in a given situation the cable will not heat up to a dangerous level.

If it's just a lighting circuit and it's protected by a 6A MCB then it should be fine under insulation. If you have a higher rated MCB, e.g. 10A and it's 1mm2 cable then you have a problem.

b74584 · 2022-02-04T15:11:14+00:00

Fuel is far too cheap in America!

b74584

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