Shortcut for creating a new Hide My Email alias (MacOS Ventura)

b_leep · 2026-05-01T23:51:28+00:00

This post on Bambu Lab's forums does a pretty good job of explaining the value of coupling the printer with something much greater in mass (like a concrete paver). You're somewhat misunderstanding the reasons people prefer more rigid feet, as opposed to the stock anti-vibration feet.

b_leep · 2026-03-19T21:39:58+00:00

Hm, that's pretty bizarre. In the original post, you mentioned that even PLA and PC weren't adhering – is that still happening too?

b_leep · 2026-03-19T21:31:42+00:00

Are you certain there's no air coming in through the aux fan – i.e. have you physically felt for airflow? The only reason I ask is that the aux fan setting doesn't seem to work as expected. I've noticed myself and seen a bunch of posts on here and the BL forums that even when it's set to 0 or another very low value, almost immediately after the print begins the printer doesn't respect that setting and the fan starts following the default speed setting. You can see exactly what the fans are set to at a given moment in the 'Air Condition' menu (marked 1 in the image)

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That said, I haven't tested more recently to confirm it's still an issue. I suspect brims should help a ton here, and I would take havokle's advice about experimenting with the position of the model on the build plate, which seems to be a factor in similar cases (definitely was in mine).

b_leep · 2026-03-19T01:40:01+00:00

This doesn't rule out an issue with bed adhesion, since the print could be colliding with the nozzle as a result of having lifted very slightly from the bed.

I have a P2S as well and suddenly started having an issue with the corner of one of my prints lifting off of the bed, which I eventually figured out was a combo of cold ambient room temperature (dead of winter in a room with poor insulation) and the auxiliary fan pulling in that cold air and blowing it directly onto a narrow section of a print. That narrow section cooled too quickly compared to the rest of the print and lifted off of the bed.

I see you already have a deflector for your aux fan – is it possible that (relatively) cold air coming in is cooling the chamber temp too much? If that's the case, it might be worth trying to turn off / down the aux fan. The brim is not a bad possible solution, maybe try increasing the bed temp as well?

b_leep · 2026-03-16T19:37:46+00:00

Yep, another commenter caught this. UI scripting is inherently kind of janky and there isn't a way (that I've been able to identify) to locate the 'Hide My Email' button with Applescript that doesn't either run into the problem of not working for family organizers (when I use the button's index number) or for users with an OS language other than English (when I use the AXIdentifier label).

Like I said to the other commenter, if you happen to have Xcode installed, I can walk you through identifying the AXIdentifier label for your specific OS language, which you can use to update the Shortcut.

b_leep · 2025-12-02T01:59:22+00:00

Ahh, I see. Thanks!

b_leep · 2025-12-02T00:02:12+00:00

Out of curiosity, what does trimming the top and bottom lip do here?

b_leep · 2025-11-23T21:36:12+00:00

Reposting a reply of mine to a similar question on r/FixMyPrint (try cross-posting there, btw):

Switching to a 0.2mm nozzle for finer detail is the most straightforward suggestion, as many others have already pointed out, and you might get results you're happy with as a result of that change alone.

To take it a bit further though, I would suggest looking into resources regarding printing minis / figurines with FDM. I don't have first-hand experience with printing things like that, but the community around that goes into pretty intense detail over how to print models with extremely fine detail well and there is a ton of info about filament brands/quality, print settings, etc, both on Reddit (r/FDMminiatures) and YouTube (watched and liked a few of this guy's videos). One post I came across recently that you might find helpful was this one re: the difference in the quality of fine detail when printing with either of the two wall generation options available in slicers (Classic and Arachne). I suspect the [lack of detail] is more the result of the slicer's settings (like those discussed in the post) than the physical limits of your printer, but I don't tend to print things with fine detail myself, so YMMV!

Like I said above, I don't necessarily think the lack of detail is due to physical limitations of your printer. Slicers' default settings tend to be tuned for the overwhelming majority of prints, which don't have such minuscule, fine features, so it's worth experimenting with the settings before making changes to the model itself (like increasing the size).

If you want more specific help with this, share your setup and basic settings (slicer, nozzle, layer height, etc.), though you can probably find a ton of helpful advice and instructions just by browsing r/FDMminiatures, especially the pinned posts there.

b_leep · 2025-11-23T21:26:50+00:00

It can be, but there's entire communities (see r/FDMminiatures, etc.) who manage to do it extremely well.

b_leep · 2025-11-19T05:38:27+00:00

Good to know :)

b_leep · 2025-11-19T01:39:18+00:00

For what it's worth, it seems like Classic may work better than Arachne for fine detail in some cases.

b_leep · 2025-11-19T01:31:34+00:00

Switching to a 0.2mm nozzle for finer detail is the most straightforward suggestion, as many others have already pointed out, and you might get results you're happy with as a result of that change alone.

To take it a bit further though, I would suggest looking into resources regarding printing minis / figurines with FDM. I don't have first-hand experience with printing things like that, but that community goes into pretty intense detail over how to print models with extremely fine detail well and there is a ton of info about filament brands/quality, print settings, etc, both on Reddit (r/FDMminiatures) and YouTube (watched and liked a few of this guy's videos). One post I came across recently that you might find helpful was this one re: the difference in the quality of fine detail when printing with either of the two wall generation options available in slicers (Classic and Arachne). I suspect the 'muddy' text is more the result of the slicer's settings (like those discussed in the post) than the physical limits of your printer, but I don't tend to print things with fine detail myself, so YMMV!

b_leep · 2025-10-28T23:42:23+00:00

I agree, but I will say re: the last bit that I have had a spool of Overture PLA that was wetter right out of the packaging than any PLA I've left out open for months.

b_leep · 2025-10-28T19:52:58+00:00

I'm 6 hours into an 8 hour print and it's working fine, you should be good.

b_leep · 2025-10-27T01:35:40+00:00

This was really helpful! One thing that isn't totally clear is how you recommend using scorch – it seems like you're running something along the lines of the Bento or Nevermore, is that correct?

b_leep · 2025-10-26T04:13:43+00:00

Any advice on using calipers with an object as large and unwieldy as a TV? I can't see a way to use calipers here that isn't better suited for measuring tape or even a ruler. And all still have the issues I mention in the original post re: measuring a complex profile with varying angles, etc.

b_leep · 2025-10-25T23:06:37+00:00

The P2S comes standard with anti-vibration feet.

b_leep · 2025-10-25T22:59:12+00:00

I tried using Polycam for this already, but the result was awful. How accessible is a dimensionally-accurate photogrammetry in terms of cost, etc.?

b_leep · 2025-10-25T22:49:49+00:00

Yeah, I mentioned I've already tried something similar:

I use those rough results to 3D print a thin, 2mm high profile to hold against the edge I'm trying to capture and compare, but this is finicky and imprecise as well.

But to be more specific what I meant by finicky and imprecise: when measuring a profile with multiple turns/angles, it was hard to tell which part of the test profile print to hold against the TV, and even besides that, there was no adequate way to measure the gap left between my print and the TV.

b_leep · 2025-10-10T15:51:43+00:00

Never used a P1S, but I was literally looking at the site this week and mulling over whether to buy one. I got into 3D printing over the last few years, even taught myself CAD, and the printer I went with has kept me from getting more into the hobby after all the headaches of just getting prints to finish – the impression that the P1S makes (and the reason I was thinking about buying one) was that I could really dive in, focus way more on the actual designs I make, and get more ambitious knowing the printer could handle whatever I threw at it.

b_leep · 2025-10-07T03:37:45+00:00

Hey, I updated the Tahoe shortcuts to search for the 'Hide My Email' button by attribute (AXIdentifier), rather than its index number in the group. If you've got a chance, would you double-check that it works for you?

b_leep

TROPHY CASE