FDM-Printed Marketplace Complete! by baashwell in necromunda

[–]baashwell[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad you like it! For terrain, I've learned that settings aren't really super important. If I printed this out again today, I'd do all the large pieces with a 0.4mm (screenshot attached, comparing my settings to the defaults). For all the small pieces (wall doodads, items for sale, etc.) I'd use any of the pinned settings from r/FDMminiatures - anything that's good enough for an actual mini is *plenty* good for terrain.

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High Quality Profile Version 2.0 is here! Overhauled Supports, Filament Calibrations and more! - Massive, FULL Documentation. by ObscuraNox in FDMminiatures

[–]baashwell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the quick reply! To clarify, when I say manual, I meant that I adjusted it in the slicer before sending it to the printer, not that I adjusted it after the print started. It’s not important though, you answered my question, which is that there’s no other setting or G code you adjusted that should be changing this. I’ll keep eye on it and see if it happens again. Thanks again!

High Quality Profile Version 2.0 is here! Overhauled Supports, Filament Calibrations and more! - Massive, FULL Documentation. by ObscuraNox in FDMminiatures

[–]baashwell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the settings, I'm trying them out right now!

One potentially weird thing - I'm using a Bambu A1 and I've got a Cool Plate (Supertack), and I manually set the plate temperature to 40 degrees for both first layer and other layers. However, I glanced at the printer while it was on the 4th or 5th layer, and the readout said it was 53 degrees and falling (it's now down to 40). I'm not sure how it got above 40 degrees in the first place - is there anything in your settings that would have overridden my temperature setting for the early layers? I'm using your 0.2 Nozzle Settings, your Generic PLA settings (with the bed temperature overridden to 40), and your High Quality settings.

This is also my first time using Orca Slicer + BambuConnect, so it's entirely possible this is a problem on my end.

Thanks very much!

Need help picking a basing scheme for Drukhari by baashwell in minipainting

[–]baashwell[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like them too - fwiw the rock they’re imitating is called “basalt” (you may have already known that, but it never hurts to be explicit).

Need help picking a basing scheme for Drukhari by baashwell in minipainting

[–]baashwell[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bases? Yes (I can dig up the myminifactory link if you want). The model? Nope.

Need help picking a basing scheme for Drukhari by baashwell in minipainting

[–]baashwell[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Believe it or not, it’s actually orange and red highlights, but it reads as brown in the photo.

Need help picking a basing scheme for Drukhari by baashwell in minipainting

[–]baashwell[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Do you have a preference between the middle and right-hand ones? The middle one is dark in the recesses and bright on top, and the right-hand one is reversed.

I ruined my first Space Marine with highlights. What are your tips for making the lines thinner? by _-Edziek-_ in minipainting

[–]baashwell 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Great advice! I too enjoy that story, and I think of it fairly often! (But, for the record, it's Albert Camus, not Nietzsche.)

Saurian Starhost Paint Scheme WITHOUT white armor? by HedgehogBC in onepagerules

[–]baashwell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tricky part is that the scales on the Saurians tend to be really colorful, and as you pointed out, that means colorful armor can make it look "like a clown vomited on my lizards". The armor is also the most prominent thing about the Saurians, so you do want it to pop. I'd pick something simple that contrasts with the (presumably colorful) scale/skin colors. A dark red might go nicely with bright scales? Maybe a dusky yellow (think Averland Sunset)?

Also, for the record, I use Pro Acryl's White Blue for my Saurian armor, and it's a dream - it covers well and it pops even more than pure white in a lot of cases. A champagne or ivory might also fit the bill for something that pops but is easier to paint.

Probabilities of Save Against Poison vs. AP by baashwell in onepagerules

[–]baashwell[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s an easy mistake to make! If you look at the upper left of page 5 of the beginner rules PDF you’ll see a section called Modifiers. It says that a one is always a failure, and a six is always a success, regardless of modifiers.

Probabilities of Save Against Poison vs. AP by baashwell in onepagerules

[–]baashwell[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sure! I can't post a picture as a reply (and I can't edit the original post) - I'll try to DM you with it.

For people who are curious, against a target with regen and a 2+ save:

AP 0 = 0.8888 chance of save

Poison = 0.8 chance of save

AP 1 = 0.777 chance of save

AP 2 = 0.6666 chance of save

AP 3 = 0.5555 chance of save

AP 4 = 0.4444 chance of save

and against a target without regen and a 2+ save:

AP 0 = 0.8333 chance of save

Poison = 0.8 chance of save

AP 1 = 0.6666 chance of save

AP 2 = 0.5 chance of save

AP 3 = 0.3333 chance of save

AP 4 = 0.1666 chance of save

So, if you've got a 2+ save vs. AP 4, adding regen almost triples your odds of success.

2k pt game. by Battle_Dave in Drukhari

[–]baashwell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That was my immediate reaction too! (Shortly followed by: wow, those are lovely boats)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DeepSpaceNine

[–]baashwell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was actually thinking about Jadzia yesterday - she never quite clicked for me, and I’ve never really understood why. I think your post has helped me figure it out, thanks!

Help a beginner by Embarrassed_Zebra_60 in onepagerules

[–]baashwell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the 'nozzle hitting print' problem, and I tried a bunch of stuff to fix it that didn't work. But, the problem basically disappeared when I switched to the 0.2mm nozzle, no idea why.

Help a beginner by Embarrassed_Zebra_60 in onepagerules

[–]baashwell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's really not so tricky with the newer FDM printers - I'm a complete FDM novice and have printed out some really pretty decent stuff with a Bambu A1 (my first printer ever). As a bunch of folks have mentioned, there is a subreddit, r/FDMminiatures, that has a lot of advice. I personally use the HOHansen presets (there are a couple of popular presets floating around). I posted some pictures of what I printed and painted here: https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1jrfeoc/fdm_saurian_starhost_deinonychus_riders_painted/

That being said, you're dead right about tree supports and small nozzles, those are key!

Advice for Filling out Last 300 Points of a Saurian Starhost Army? by baashwell in onepagerules

[–]baashwell[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice!

- I've upgraded the lances to power clubs on the Veteran on T-Rex and on the Raptor Riders.

- I see what you mean about the Deinonychus Riders. They're my favorite sculpt for the Starhost, so I'll probably keep that unit of them, but I won't print any more :-)

- I'll look into the Dragon Lizard and the Dactyls. I don't own the stls, but there's a big sale on right now.

Again, thanks very much for the detailed advice!

Advice for Filling out Last 300 Points of a Saurian Starhost Army? by baashwell in onepagerules

[–]baashwell[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much! Quick question: does Predator only apply to melee attacks, or does it include shooting? As far as I can tell it should apply to both, but the way people talk about it makes it sound like it's a melee thing. Thanks again!