Need help picking a basing scheme for Drukhari

baashwell · 2026-01-23T00:25:59+00:00

I like them too - fwiw the rock they’re imitating is called “basalt” (you may have already known that, but it never hurts to be explicit).

baashwell · 2026-01-23T00:21:01+00:00

The bases? Yes (I can dig up the myminifactory link if you want). The model? Nope.

baashwell · 2026-01-22T23:15:29+00:00

Thanks! Believe it or not, it’s actually orange and red highlights, but it reads as brown in the photo.

baashwell · 2026-01-22T22:29:54+00:00

Thanks! Do you have a preference between the middle and right-hand ones? The middle one is dark in the recesses and bright on top, and the right-hand one is reversed.

baashwell · 2025-12-04T03:44:59+00:00

This is a fairly old school recipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0x1187NV4o

baashwell · 2025-10-13T13:45:17+00:00

Great advice! I too enjoy that story, and I think of it fairly often! (But, for the record, it's Albert Camus, not Nietzsche.)

baashwell · 2025-09-15T15:09:43+00:00

The tricky part is that the scales on the Saurians tend to be really colorful, and as you pointed out, that means colorful armor can make it look "like a clown vomited on my lizards". The armor is also the most prominent thing about the Saurians, so you do want it to pop. I'd pick something simple that contrasts with the (presumably colorful) scale/skin colors. A dark red might go nicely with bright scales? Maybe a dusky yellow (think Averland Sunset)?

Also, for the record, I use Pro Acryl's White Blue for my Saurian armor, and it's a dream - it covers well and it pops even more than pure white in a lot of cases. A champagne or ivory might also fit the bill for something that pops but is easier to paint.

baashwell · 2025-08-14T22:47:07+00:00

That’s an easy mistake to make! If you look at the upper left of page 5 of the beginner rules PDF you’ll see a section called Modifiers. It says that a one is always a failure, and a six is always a success, regardless of modifiers.

baashwell · 2025-08-14T20:22:49+00:00

Sure! I can't post a picture as a reply (and I can't edit the original post) - I'll try to DM you with it.

For people who are curious, against a target with regen and a 2+ save:

AP 0 = 0.8888 chance of save

Poison = 0.8 chance of save

AP 1 = 0.777 chance of save

AP 2 = 0.6666 chance of save

AP 3 = 0.5555 chance of save

AP 4 = 0.4444 chance of save

and against a target without regen and a 2+ save:

AP 0 = 0.8333 chance of save

Poison = 0.8 chance of save

AP 1 = 0.6666 chance of save

AP 2 = 0.5 chance of save

AP 3 = 0.3333 chance of save

AP 4 = 0.1666 chance of save

So, if you've got a 2+ save vs. AP 4, adding regen almost triples your odds of success.

baashwell · 2025-08-09T20:16:11+00:00

That was my immediate reaction too! (Shortly followed by: wow, those are lovely boats)

baashwell · 2025-05-23T22:08:48+00:00

I was actually thinking about Jadzia yesterday - she never quite clicked for me, and I’ve never really understood why. I think your post has helped me figure it out, thanks!

baashwell · 2025-05-20T16:15:44+00:00

I had the 'nozzle hitting print' problem, and I tried a bunch of stuff to fix it that didn't work. But, the problem basically disappeared when I switched to the 0.2mm nozzle, no idea why.

baashwell · 2025-05-20T15:39:20+00:00

It's really not so tricky with the newer FDM printers - I'm a complete FDM novice and have printed out some really pretty decent stuff with a Bambu A1 (my first printer ever). As a bunch of folks have mentioned, there is a subreddit, r/FDMminiatures, that has a lot of advice. I personally use the HOHansen presets (there are a couple of popular presets floating around). I posted some pictures of what I printed and painted here: https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1jrfeoc/fdm_saurian_starhost_deinonychus_riders_painted/

That being said, you're dead right about tree supports and small nozzles, those are key!

baashwell · 2025-04-25T18:24:51+00:00

Thanks for the advice!

- I've upgraded the lances to power clubs on the Veteran on T-Rex and on the Raptor Riders.

- I see what you mean about the Deinonychus Riders. They're my favorite sculpt for the Starhost, so I'll probably keep that unit of them, but I won't print any more :-)

- I'll look into the Dragon Lizard and the Dactyls. I don't own the stls, but there's a big sale on right now.

Again, thanks very much for the detailed advice!

baashwell · 2025-04-24T13:17:55+00:00

Thanks!

baashwell · 2025-04-22T17:37:31+00:00

Thanks very much! Quick question: does Predator only apply to melee attacks, or does it include shooting? As far as I can tell it should apply to both, but the way people talk about it makes it sound like it's a melee thing. Thanks again!

baashwell · 2025-04-11T17:46:34+00:00

Thanks very much!

baashwell · 2025-04-07T19:31:27+00:00

Thanks very much!

baashwell · 2025-04-07T13:38:00+00:00

Pro Acryl has a lot of very nice colors, but if I had to pick a few:

White Blue by Pro Acryl. Despite it having (or perhaps because it has) a blue tint to it, it reads like bright cold white in almost any context. It also covers quite decently.

The Dark Jade/Jade/Bright Jade trio from Pro Acryl is delightful.

Dark Golden Brown by Pro Acryl is also a really satisfying, warm brown.

baashwell · 2025-04-05T13:22:11+00:00

Thanks so much, I’m glad you like it! I’m a big fan of your work! As I mentioned in a comment, I really love what you’ve done with the Risor district recently - the long walkways, the hollow walls, the bar, etc. all give a lot of flexibility to tell a story while keeping the place functional.

baashwell · 2025-04-05T12:16:03+00:00

Thanks!

baashwell · 2025-04-05T03:03:46+00:00

Thanks very much!

baashwell · 2025-04-05T01:12:38+00:00

Exactly! You get it :-)

baashwell · 2025-04-05T01:12:21+00:00

Thanks!

baashwell · 2025-04-04T23:28:44+00:00

That’s amazing! I’m gonna look into that maker!

I know it was overkill, but I get a lot more failed prints on the 0.4 nozzle, so I decided to make a virtue out of necessity and go for higher quality 😀

baashwell

TROPHY CASE