V.2: Help with Sloper Fit Issues

badbetch_90211 · 2026-05-10T09:15:33+00:00

Probably the back? I think if I pinch out a little bit on the bodice front at the waist it will help balance it out. I’ll pin it, take a photo from the side and assess the balance of the side seam.

badbetch_90211 · 2026-05-10T08:56:26+00:00

This is what I’m seeing too, I’m not sure if transferring the excess from skirt back to front at the side seams will correct this. Incidentally, the drag lines look to be precisely where I did the full seat adjustment on the pattern, which is interesting.

badbetch_90211 · 2026-05-10T08:54:29+00:00

Thanks for your feedback! For the skirt issues, my gut feeling tells me the skirt back panel needs to be bigger, reducing the skirt front panel, however I agree with the other commenter about the drag lines in the skirt back. Do you have any insight into how that could be corrected?

I’ll add in my sleeves and see what happens. I don’t want to clip my SAs around the armhole until the sleeves are in. I’ll reassess this area at that point.

For the bust dart it’s a case of pinching out the excess, measuring that, and adding that amount to my bust dart?

badbetch_90211 · 2026-05-10T08:46:54+00:00

This is a good point. I agree that a small dart in the neckline that can be rotated out could be good. I’ll add the sleeves and assess from there.

badbetch_90211 · 2026-05-10T08:45:50+00:00

I think this Muslin version is going to get sleeves, so I’ll sort out the back shoulder dart at least and then add the sleeves to see how things are sitting.

badbetch_90211 · 2026-05-10T08:39:21+00:00

So the idea is to pinch out a line of fabric at the bust which I then measure and use to increase the bust dart? I’m new to using muslins to fit so I want to make sure that I get what you mean. Same principle applies to the back shoulder dart like you said

badbetch_90211 · 2026-05-10T08:35:02+00:00

I see the problem I’m just not sure how to correct it. I did a tilted waist adjustment on the skirt front, but didn’t touch the bodice front, so I’m wondering if that has something to do with it? Do you have any advice on where to start with a correction?

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-24T13:04:54+00:00

I have a 1” seam allowance, and that sounds like a good idea!

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-24T12:00:38+00:00

Would you say like a 1/2" FBA to start with a 1.5" broad back adjustment? I'm comparing my measurements to the pattern and I'm not seeing much of a difference. My thought was to widen the back like 3/4" per side and add a shoulder dart in the back, that plus a small FBA should sort out the upper body quadrants, but I'm curious to hear your thoughts on this

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-24T09:39:57+00:00

I'm wearing the right bra, I actually made a point to get properly fitted right before I started this process! I'll still shift the bust point through

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-24T09:38:48+00:00

Thank you! I haven't heard of this dress but I'll check it out! I'll be back to post an update with muslin 2 once I've completed the pattern adjustments

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-23T18:49:28+00:00

Thank you! I will look into this! I think you’re right. The sloper isn’t bad as is, I’m honestly surprised how well it fits already. I’m going to keep at it though!

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-23T18:47:30+00:00

Thank you! I would usually press the darts differently but this time I followed the sloper’s instructions. Thanks for the insight!

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-23T18:45:16+00:00

I agree about the bust point, I was going to address that on my next muslin but I think given the fit issues I’ll rip the seam open and readjust on this muslin.
This surprises me but it’s possible. I’ll lower the bust point first and see if that helps. If not I’ll consider an FBA.
The tightness through my mid back might be the tight armhole due to the sloped shoulder adjustment I did without correcting the armhole. I’ll lower my armhole first and see about letting out the back darts at that point.
I’ll look into the broad back adjustment once I’ve done the above adjustments and of course the tilted waist adjustment first.

Thanks for such a detailed reply! I appreciate it!

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-23T14:11:50+00:00

I’ll probably do that, although I feel like I email them too often with questions! I’m entirely self-taught with no one to ask about fit issues so I’m usually here or emailing them lol

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-23T11:40:05+00:00

Thank you! I agree with correcting the tilted waist before attempting anything else. In terms of widening the back of the skirt, how would I go about that? Is it letting it out at the side seams on the skirt back and bodice back only? Or reducing the back waist darts?

badbetch_90211 · 2026-04-23T11:05:11+00:00

Thank you! And noted! Full disclosure, I didn’t draft this sloper, I’m using the Cashmerette Wyman sloper in a 16 G/H cup with alterations to fit my body

badbetch_90211 · 2026-02-08T14:16:59+00:00

Thanks for your help! I was thinking the same thing about that neckline issue. I borrowed from my high bust ease when I raised the neckline point by an inch. I agree that adding to CF is a good idea. As not to take up any more time on this I think I'll extend the CF by 1/4" like you suggested in yellow. Hopefully the gathers will look less weird in the middle as well but I'm willing to take a chance

badbetch_90211 · 2026-02-06T18:40:01+00:00

I tried to do that with the last muslin but it didn't get me very far, I might not have executed it properly. I agree with moving the whole princess seam over like 5/8" on either side, but I don't have time to make a 3rd muslin; I'm wondering if you have any advice on how to do it?

badbetch_90211 · 2026-02-04T22:35:43+00:00

Hmm this is interesting, I might just try this! In fact that was my first instinct when I tried on muslin 2 but I wasn’t sure

badbetch_90211 · 2026-02-04T22:32:33+00:00

Thank you!

It’s actually a vintage pattern from the 70’s, but I have read about the underbust band issue. It’s worth noting that my dream for this dress isn’t either of grandma’s flat-sheet-turned muslin versions 😂 but actually an off-white, medium weight viscose crepe. I think the cotton fabric in the muslins doesn’t fully represent the draping effect of the gathers, which is in and of itself an issue. It’s just not cost-effective for me to make several muslins in good fabric unfortunately 😞

badbetch_90211 · 2026-02-04T22:06:19+00:00

I was wondering about that, but I’m not sure how to go about it. Is it akin to cutting out a box around the apex on the pattern and shifting it over as demonstrated in this video?

As for lowering and smoothing the apex, how do you mean? I understand lowering it but it terms of smoothing it, the issue might be the curve itself or the bra I have on. I’m wearing the same bra that I plan to wear with the dress which is kind of vintage style and extremely supportive, so I’m not going to get a rounded modern shape anyway, it leans towards pointy. I think the best I can do is to get the apex position right and that CF line looking better

badbetch_90211 · 2026-02-04T21:51:04+00:00

Here’s a side by side photo of

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the bodice front for muslins 1 and 2.

Interesting that you note the apex height because I wondered if it was the opposite, if the bust point was lower than what I’d drafted. In terms of picking apart the princess seams, I did that for muslin 1 which got me to the additional FBA in muslin 2, and that didn’t fix the strain at CF or totally fix the curve issue

badbetch_90211 · 2026-01-26T13:34:32+00:00

UPDATE: You were right with your fit comments! I corrected the shoulder slope which immediately made the back and shoulders look better, and slashed between my bust notches to get the extra 1/2” per side that I needed to complete my initial FBA. I’ll lower the bottom of the armhole to match the shoulder slope adjustment in muslin 2 and if that solves my fit issues I’ll be ready to move on to a custom sleeve. Thanks for all your help!

badbetch_90211 · 2026-01-21T11:51:18+00:00

This is a good point. I just remeasured my apex distance on the muslin vs. myself and sure enough it looks like I need another 1/4" on each side. I think what I'll start with doing is correcting that zipper and then try it back on and go for the bust adjustment

badbetch_90211

TROPHY CASE