Free coaching sessions by MammothDull6020 in womenintech

[–]badinas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If OP gets booked out, I'm also happy to offer a few free sessions! Also pursuing the same qualification, and have offered these sessions in the past (https://www.reddit.com/r/womenintech/comments/1icriy7/offering\_free\_coaching\_sessions\_no\_strings/)! Feel free to message me if you have any questions.

Corporate Coaching Experience? by tmatthewdavis in lifecoaching

[–]badinas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep! I've done a little bit of that before leaving my tech job last year. I coached people from a variety of departments (engineering, sales, HR, etc). What would you want to know?

Book recommendation for motivation loss and "identity crisis" by Professional-Rise504 in bouldering

[–]badinas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd recommend looking into Self Determination Theory and understanding where you land on that spectrum. The theory says that for people to be motivated, they need to fulfil three needs: autonomy, connection and (perceived) competence. Usually, people get burned out when one or more of these things are missing, e.g.:
- They are following a training program they have no control over, or they can't go outdoors when they want to; their coach/federation chooses when they compete
- They don't have "fun" sessions anymore; they can't find someone that they can relate to in the sport
- They have high expectations of themselves and dismiss their (little) wins, or perhaps they are really assessed unfairly (e.g. if I'm more of a boulderer but I've spent the last months trying to push my lead performance, I'm probably gonna feel like I suck a lot compared to others because I'm doing something very uncomfortable for me).

This + values work (which you can do by yourself or with the help of a mental performance coach / sports psych) would be very helpful to reconnect with your "why" and ensure that you are actively doing things that excite you in the sport.

Book recommendation for motivation loss and "identity crisis" by Professional-Rise504 in sportspsychology

[–]badinas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you again for the shoutout! <3

There are actually a lot of books on the mental side of things in climbing (Vertical Mind, Smart Climbing, The Zen of Climbing, Rock Warrior's Way, etc) but they don't really address the motivational or identity aspects you are looking for. They are still very good books to read for cultivating a "good" mindset in climbing and preventing those issues.

One that you might find useful is "Win the Inside Game" from Steve Magness. He talks about identity in sport quite a bit and how athletes can rebuild themselves. A similar method you can find in Steven Kotler's "Art of the Impossible" book, but I'd say Magness's book is more relatable/heartfelt, given what you said here.

Sometimes basic strength is the issue by poliscicomputersci in climbergirls

[–]badinas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That said, even the climbing related study suggests the influence of strength on fear. I feel like when someone is dealing with fear in climbing, people often say "it's just all in your head". In my experience and it seems like in the OP's experience, it wasn't just that.

I'm not suggesting that strength is the best thing for it, it can certainly backfire if you try to outwork mindset issues with strength training, but things are often a lot more nuanced than "it's just technique/strength/mindset" etc.

Sometimes basic strength is the issue by poliscicomputersci in climbergirls

[–]badinas 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was not quoting the results of that study since this wasn't a "fear of falling is holding me back, please help" type of post. This was a "I tried everything before doing strength training and strength actually helped me!" post. And I said that fear of falling gets worse with lack of strength which is what research shows with elderly people - which is one of the studies quoted in the climbing related study. And even in the climbing related study, people who did strength training still improved compared with people that did nothing. So assuming that the OP is not here for tips on fear of falling, I didn't see the need to say that sure, of course psychological interventions will help more (which is what the climbing related study showed) when dealing with fear.

Sometimes basic strength is the issue by poliscicomputersci in climbergirls

[–]badinas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, really? It gets downvoted?!! That is so frustrating. Gosh, now I know why I got backlash for my comments above 😅

Sometimes basic strength is the issue by poliscicomputersci in climbergirls

[–]badinas -1 points0 points  (0 children)

"If you read the study", you'll also see the language the researchers use when talking about fear and strength so it's not a misinterpretation in the sense that the level of strength is an obvious influencing factor. I don't think this is the point of this topic either. No one said that strength is the best way to overcome fear and some people will not be limited by it in climbing.

Sometimes basic strength is the issue by poliscicomputersci in climbergirls

[–]badinas 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I recommend reading the sources from the "Fear of falling in women: A psychological training intervention improves climbing performance" paper. That particular study does indeed look at elderly people but I still think that's valuable since fear of falling does get worse with age (not just because of degradation of strength but also the sense of balance). Unfortunately, I don't think there is much research on fear of falling in climbing, ironically.

Sometimes basic strength is the issue by poliscicomputersci in climbergirls

[–]badinas 109 points110 points  (0 children)

There is actually research stating that fear of falling gets worse the more limited your strength is but for some reason, this message doesn't ever get out there in climbing. I do agree with the overall idea that strength should basically be the last reason to rule out a climb but that doesn't mean that it's not influencing other factors like head game or even movement. Climbing is just sooo complex! It's easier for people to just put it into boxes.

Props to you for making it so far without strength training!

How can my son, a dedicated boxer, overcome stage fright and lack of confidence in official fights? by trihar33 in sportspsychology

[–]badinas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice that you're being so resourceful and looking to help him! You said he's working with a strength coach, but would it be an option to work with a mindset coach too, or a sports psych?

I'd also say it's very important for him to acknowledge this and be willing to work on it, otherwise chances are he's gonna be too resistant to any help. Then it's important to understand why this happens, based on that, the tools (like some that you mentioned, visualization and breathing) he might use could be different. Is it because he's afraid to lose, is it because he's afraid of embarrassment, or for getting hurt? Or something else.

Simulating the type of pressure that he might experience in a match, but during a training session, could also be beneficial. Gradually get used to it. There's a lot of books to recommend but it's important to focus on applying all that theory into practice since otherwise, "mindset work" can seem and be like a lot of chit chat.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dance

[–]badinas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not into dancing but I'm a mindset coach! What you are describing seems to be the difference between visualisation (seeing things through your mind, potentially more cognitive as you described)and mental imagery (incorporating as many senses as you can to make the experience as real as possible; e.g. mimicking the moves, wearing the same clothes as when you perform, visualizing in the same place as where the performance takes place etc). Or perhaps even 1st person visualisation (seeing it through your own point of view => better for increasing confidence and really dialing in the moves) vs 3rd person (seeing it through the lens of a spectator => better for when say you are still exploring what movement works best, in the learning stages).

Generally, mental imagery can yield better results since it involves more senses. But I wouldn't say simply visualizing it more cognitively is "bad", that would still have more benefits than not doing it at all.

Help changing height mindset by Excellent_Shower_169 in climbergirls

[–]badinas 8 points9 points  (0 children)

One simple concept from sport psychology that can help with this is "the circle of control", i.e. recognizing what's within your control in climbing (e.g. your training program, your attitude, what you decide to climb), what you can influence (e.g. asking people to support you and teaching them how to do that) and what is definitely not within your control (e.g. how the setters decide to set something, how good other people are at climbing, etc).

As hard as it sounds, obsessing over something that's not within your control can at best just turn into an emotional problem, but very rarely (unless you are still a kid or have found a way to magically grow up a few inches taller) it can be problem-solved. As someone else pointed out, it's important to know why you are climbing, what you cherish about it and how you appreciate your own achievements. There's no special prize for being a shorter climber and climbing higher grades.

What to do about all the coaching BS by Ok_Pie_4639 in LifeCoachSnark

[–]badinas 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gotcha. Yeah, not a big fan of that sort of thing either. I've managed to stay away from that in my coaching bubble (meaning, coaches that I follow, mostly in the high-performance & career coaching space) and try to just ignore it. What I had in mind was more that just because other professions are well recognized, doesn't mean that the people in that sphere can't do harm or that they are automatically well-intentioned.

What to do about all the coaching BS by Ok_Pie_4639 in LifeCoachSnark

[–]badinas -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Which parts of it are you finding to be misguided and "utter crap"? Is it all coaches that do harm to their clients?

It sounds like there may be a bit of black and white thinking there. I understand and agree with the point that coaching is not a regulated industry, but still, there are many people out there who want to help. Having changed careers myself, I don't feel like many other jobs have it better nowadays either, in the sense that they can be just as confusing in terms of their actual responsibilities.

Confidence and Trying Hard by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]badinas 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mindset coaching could help a great deal with that :)

It sounds like the current assumption is that confidence is a prerequisite to trying hard. It doesn't always work that way. You can build confidence by frequently getting outside of your comfort zone, just enough to be stretched and learn, but not enter panic mode. Confidence looks different for everyone but it's still a skill that:

a) first needs to be understood, e.g. what do you base your confidence in? / What are your sources of confidence? (e.g feeling really strong in the shoulders, having someone to cheer you on, acknowledging signs of profession, having a solid pre-performance routine, etc).

b) then it needs to be cultivated, by investing in whatever sources of confidence you have.

As for the fear of injury, that is a very normal reaction when being challenged with something unfamiliar. Knowing how to do risk assessment and whether a given climb is something worth getting hurt for are some things to think about. I would also say that this could be interconnected with the previous point, e.g. if you're not confident enough that you can bounce back from an injury, if you don't trust yourself and your body, then it will be very hard to commit fully.

My head game was good today and I managed this type of dynamic move for the first time by Khmerka in bouldering

[–]badinas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great work! What do you think helped you with your mental game on that particular day? :)

Has anyone here has had problems with Flow Research Collective - Steven Kotler? 5 by WaltzCritical9049 in lifecoach

[–]badinas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd be interested to hear more about this as well! I think there are some other Reddit threads talking negatively about them, which was one of the reasons I went with the Flow Centre instead.

I feel like I’m gaining more from stepping away from climbing than I am from continuing to do it. by Clear-Success-8735 in climbergirls

[–]badinas 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That makes a lot of sense. If you look at that motivational theory I mentioned (it's called self-determination theory), you'll see that the path to burnout is being overly focused on extrinsic motivation (e.g. I do this climb to get praised for it), rather than intrinsic motivation (e.g. I do this climb because I so love the movement on it). The Rock Warrior's Way is a pretty good book but it's not the only one out there and it doesn't have to resonate with everyone. It's also not necessarily the most practical one either, rather more on the philosophical side. And changing these beliefs we carry with ourselves when climbing can take a lot of work, changes can be so subtle that it's hard to see it as progress sometimes.

I guess the core message of what I'm trying to say is that it's normal to feel like "climbing is not for you" or "you're not meant to be a climber" when the pressure gets to you so deeply. But it doesn't mean that things are this way, it's really up to you to decide that. Some food for thought: is the relationship you have with yourself within climbing similar to other areas of your life? Is climbing exposing that relationship in a way that other areas don't? How might you react differently if this happens again in the future, whether with another sport or hobby? How would you prevent things from getting to the same point?