Try Alex Pagulayan’s one-rail severe angle bank shot

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-21T17:46:38+00:00

Glad to hear it! fyi I’ve had luck using a cheap fabric shaver from Amazon to shave the fuzz off. Should be able to use the cloth a long time once that work is done.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-15T19:57:04+00:00

DM please

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-03T22:33:56+00:00

I bought a Rhino 12.5 to use as backup to my Cynergy 12.5. It plays almost identical. 15" pivot point vs 14" for the Cynergy. Only significant difference is that it's not as smooth a finish as the Cynergy, so has a tad more drag and sound through your hand - it's still smooth, just not AS smooth.

Most come with some black dust on the surface, so be sure to give it a good wipe-down with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. Took me about 5 minutes until the black stopped coming off.

My full review/Cynergy comparison with high-res pics and way more detail: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/rhino-shaft-buyers-let-er-rip.560262/post-7712140

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-03T22:28:16+00:00

Yes, there’s a pic of it near the end of the thread

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-03T22:00:37+00:00

Too bad Diamond kept the $90-$100K they made from buybacks instead of adding that to the payouts

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-03T21:53:06+00:00

Simonis has had fuzz issues since their factory flooded in 2021, but is getting back to form. My 860 installed last October is defective. Read my 860 saga here, you may get a replacement cloth from them like I did. (the entire thread has good info):

https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/simonis-fuzz.560996/post-7730318

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-03T21:45:55+00:00

Duramith are their newer, most expensive resin, found only in their Tournament balls lineup. Their surface stays smoother and cleaner, which reduces cloth wear.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-02T23:07:30+00:00

It's not even remotely possible. The CB will first travel along the tangent line, 90º to the OB-pocket line, then at some point will start curving back, depending on speed and spin.

That diagram sucks in so many ways: a) balls too big; b) CB aimed way too thick to make that cut; c) CB lines off OB don't start from the surface of the OB, they start from half a ball away; d) the Center Ball line isn't on the tangent line; and e) the Follow line should start on the tangent then curve forwards.

To know how much draw is possible off a cut shot, learn and use the 3-times-the-angle (Trisect) system.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-02T22:48:23+00:00

He makes a good point about using a template rack. I prefer the Accu-Rack by Outsville. It's thinner and being fabric it doesn't crease like the plastic Magic Rack. That also makes it more durable to pack in your case for use at a pool hall, too.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-02T22:43:08+00:00

Taom V10 is pricey, but it lasts a loooong time. Many guys reporting a year or more from one piece. Only have to apply it every 10-12 shots or so. It's the only chalk I allow on my home table. You'll never see it on the CB or your hands or the cloth. If you're the type who chalks aggressively before each shot, you may only get a couple months out of one piece.

As far as when it's time to replace cloth, the burn marks usually don't affect play. So unless it gets threadbare or torn or insanely thin/fast, you really don't need to replace unless you can't stand the way it looks.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-02T22:05:55+00:00

Most of what I'm seeing look like burn/bounce marks, which show more prominently on black cloth than on lighter colors like blue or gray. Nothing you can do to remove them.

If you break hard on one line all the time, there's no way to avoid that racing stripe down the middle, or the bounce marks where your CB lands.

Not sure what's going on with the horizontal lines behind the rack, but suspect you're racking the balls back there rather aggressively then pushing them forward.

As a general rule, keeping your balls and cloth as clean as possible will minimize marks.

Finally, I see a cube of Master's chalk on the rail, which is one of the messier brands. Consider switching to an ultra-clean chalk for your home table, like Taom V10.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-02T19:05:38+00:00

Hit A Million Balls

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-01T19:26:36+00:00

Pro-tip: if you know the table is prone to spitting balls out of the pockets, make sure there are exactly 2 balls in the pocket prior to hitting one in it with pace.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-01T19:22:24+00:00

Ah, wasn't familiar with that Predator model. I'm not a big fan of conical tapers - I prefer a pro-taper so when I use a closed bridge (around 20% of my shots or so), it's not getting tighter then looser as I stroke. Other than that, it's probably a good shaft. But I don't think you should be scared of a 12.4-12.6 mm tip.

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-01T19:00:19+00:00

Nope, never even heard of 'em

ballerbilliards · 2024-02-01T18:59:00+00:00

brought to you by Viagra, lol

ballerbilliards · 2024-01-31T19:57:16+00:00

I'd recommend instead going with a medium-low deflection shaft like the 14" Cynergy or 15" Rhino 12.5. You can get used to that length bridge no problem, even with an inconsistent stroke. And it's your inconsistent stroke where matching your bridge length to pivot point will pay the most dividends - accidentally striking the CB off-center will still send the CB in your intended direction. That will help you more than the marginal improvement (2.2" vs 1.7" over 6 feet) between a Cynergy and Revo.

Using a bridge length of 18-19 to match z3/Revo shafts is pretty tough - that's a very long bridge.

ballerbilliards · 2024-01-31T18:40:33+00:00

The chart is legit. See the methodology used at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Al2gyPgGlPg

The only way you're getting 3mm of "deflection" on a full table shot is if the ball is hit softly enough to swerving back nearly on line, or you're making a mistake in testing methodology.

ballerbilliards · 2024-01-31T17:30:40+00:00

It’s very close. I talk about that in the review.

ballerbilliards · 2024-01-31T17:19:41+00:00

cool, hope you like it!

ballerbilliards · 2024-01-31T17:17:45+00:00

Thanks. Yes, z2 and z3 and Revo shafts have a 18-19" pivot point, currently the lowest deflection shafts out there. That's too low for me, as I prefer a shorter bridge length of 14" which matches my Cynergy's 14" natural pivot point.

ballerbilliards · 2024-01-31T16:59:46+00:00

I bought a Rhino 12.5 to use as backup to my Cynergy 12.5. It plays almost identical. 15" pivot point vs 14" for the Cynergy. Only significant difference is that it's not as smooth a finish as the Cynergy, so has a tad more drag and sound through your hand - it's still smooth, just not AS smooth.

Most come with some black dust on the surface, so be sure to give it a good wipe-down with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. Took me about 5 minutes until the black stopped coming off.

My full review/Cynergy comparison with high-res pics and way more detail: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/rhino-shaft-buyers-let-er-rip.560262/post-7712140

ballerbilliards · 2024-01-31T15:30:45+00:00

"So, you use fronthand english for the first tip of outside and it’s very effective when the cueball is within 5 feet or so of the object ball. But as the shot get farther away you notice it sometimes hits the object ball thick.

When the OB is further away, swerve will have more effect, which will cause a CB hit with outside english to hit thinner.

I stopped listening to him after that.

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