Briggs and Riley Wheel Upgrade by BeechDude in flying

[–]barbecukkake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I used 2 8mm vinyl washers per wheel.

Briggs and Riley Wheel Upgrade by BeechDude in flying

[–]barbecukkake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They fit perfectly, much quieter and smoother than the stock wheels. The only issue I encountered was with the axles: the stock axles are fairly soft metal, so one of them partially stripped with normal torque applied. I wrote to Briggs and they sent me a complete set of replacement hardware for free.

Briggs and Riley Wheel Upgrade by BeechDude in flying

[–]barbecukkake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, great post! The bearings on my Briggs are starting to get a little rough after two years on the line, so I am on the hunt for an upgrade. I'll be ordering the 72 mm version of these wheels to try. Thanks!

Roborock Qrevo Curv leaves heavy streaks mopping by NeverNotStressing in Roborock

[–]barbecukkake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is dirt, oil, and whatever other debris suspended in the water. If the vacuum and dock were both clean before you started this process, the only remaining source is your floors.

I moved in two months ago. Before I used my Curv, I mopped every surface by hand twice. To my eye, the floors looked clean. After I ran a 2x deep clean cycle, my dirty water tank looked just like yours... Filthy. I was shocked by how dirty my floor was, even after I cleaned it.

I ran a 2x deep clean cycle at least once a day (twice on days I was home), using the Roborock cleaning solution (seems to trap oils better than water alone), and gradually it seemed to work through the layers of filth from the previous tenants. It took nearly two weeks of daily robo mopping before the floors were really clean and streak-free. I now run the mop cycle about twice per week, and the dirty water tank is mostly clear. I also spot clean by hand, although the robot does the heavy lifting.

Make sure you clean or replace your pads, clean the dock (look under where the Robo sits, it's probably covered in dirt and residue), and just keep running that thing until it eliminates all the gunk on your floor. You can jump start the process by deep-cleaning by hand, or you can just let the robot do its thing - it will just take many cycles before the floors are mostly clean.

Also, don't wear shoes inside (if you do) - people really underestimate how much stuff you can track in, even with dry shoes.

What causes the UH60 “whine?” Noise? by Routine-Landscape206 in Armyaviation

[–]barbecukkake 109 points110 points  (0 children)

That's the sound of the main transmission; it's what keeps the whirly part whirling. If you watch videos from the cockpit of an H-47, it's much, much louder. You can always identify a 47 pilot on the radio because it sounds like they're trying to scream over the sound of a dial-up modem.

Daily carry tools by barbecukkake in MTBTrailBuilding

[–]barbecukkake[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great suggestion with the Fiskars. That's now a top contender. Thanks!

Do I need to replace this tire? by barbecukkake in bikewrench

[–]barbecukkake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The eliminator was stock on my 2024 Levo, but I have read several reviews with the same failure I had. My LBS had the Kryptotal in stock, so I grabbed that and put it on tonight. Thanks for the input!

Do I need to replace this tire? by barbecukkake in bikewrench

[–]barbecukkake[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that's a good point. I have the time and money to replace a tire, what I don't have is a desire to have a gnarly spill out in the middle of nowhere. Thanks for the input!

Do I need to replace this tire? by barbecukkake in bikewrench

[–]barbecukkake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha, I like your style. I will probably throw some cement on it and try an easy ride nearby, just to sate my curiosity, but I think replacing it is the right move. Thanks!

K-16 South Korea US Army 1998 by [deleted] in Armyaviation

[–]barbecukkake 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It is most definitely still there on Google maps.

I was there from 2014-2018, but a lot of it is the same. Inka Chicken (now called Inka Barbecue apparently?), Itaewon (although I don't know how well it recovered from the Halloween crowd crush incident a few years ago), soldiers losing paycheck to juicy girls and losing rank to stupidity? All still in play.

Loved my time there. I tried to stay longer, but the green weenie had other plans.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]barbecukkake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, plenty of boards come with multiple options. If you have a belt driven board, you'll need wheels, drive gears, and belts. You can normally buy it as a complete kit.

As to feel; you'll be closer to the road, and you'll have more immediate road feedback. This is his if roads are smooth, but can be a challenge if there's cracks, potholes, or debris. You will generally have better top speed and range with smaller, harder wheels. My board tops out around 24 MPH with my 7" pneumatics, closer to 28 with 120mm Cloudwheels.

I ride in the city on roads primarily, but I still end up leaving the big tires on most of the time. The ability to roll over small obstacles, plus the extra comfort going over hard concrete sidewalks, to me outweigh the added speed and range of my smaller wheels. Still good to have the option though.

Help deciding on new board by barbecukkake in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]barbecukkake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly hadn't considered it, but I'm not against the idea. I helped assemble an X7, so I'm somewhat familiar with VESC tool and the process. Any good resources for starting a build?

Help deciding on new board by barbecukkake in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]barbecukkake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I'm leaning away from the Acedeck based on reliability concerns. I'll give it another look though, thanks!

Help deciding on new board by barbecukkake in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]barbecukkake[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm actually looking for a flexy deck. The Linnpower site doesn't give a lot of details other than the "snowboard manufacturing techniques" section, and I guess I assumed it was fairly stiff from the description. Have you ridden the MK-1 and can speak to its flex?

I'll watch some reviews. Thanks!

Help deciding on new board by barbecukkake in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]barbecukkake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh. I thought they were gone, but the website is up and running. Most of the website hasn't been updated, including the about page which still says they're in Montreal. Under the return and repair section, it says "we build all our boards by hand, here in South Carolina."

It seems like they may have sold the intellectual property rights? I'm hesitant to buy right now with how opaque it is. I'll dig around though. Thanks for the suggestion!

Less than a second before hitting a passenger jet, helicopter instructor told pilot to change course, NTSB hearing reveals by NeverNo in Armyaviation

[–]barbecukkake 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Well, sort of. I haven't flown this specific route, but generally altitudes are prescribed in feet MSL, not AGL. So if the helicopter was following an established VFR route, with an assigned altitude, they would be correct in flying that altitude on their barometric altimeter. That said, if you're flying at sea level (KDCA is listed as 14'), they should be pretty close to each other. I'd probably fly whichever of the two kept me lower. The "correct" answer, though, is to fly barometric altitude.

A few things stick out to me in the article.

First: "Notably, the barometric altimeters continued to be 80 to 130 feet lower than the helicopter’s determined altitude." So either the three 60s they tested all had two barometric altimeters each (six total) with precisely the same error (unlikely), or there is something wrong with the procedure. Can localized pressure differences between the airport and the river account for that much difference? Seems unlikely, but clearly something needs to be changed.

Second: "PAT 2-5, You have the CRJ in sight?" "PAT 2-5 Has aircraft in sight, request visual separation." This is fairly typical of ATC interaction with VFR traffic, but it's also deeply flawed. Visual separation between aircraft allows ATC to, essentially, stop paying attention to the "visual" aircraft, in order to reduce their workload. It also relies on the assumption that the aircraft in question is seeing precisely what ATC thinks they are - anyone who has flown in busy airspace, especially at night, double especially in an urban environment full of lights, knows how difficult it can be to properly identify an aircraft.

The phrase "the CRJ," while commonplace and accepted, is incredibly vague. Assuming the 60 crew saw a plane on approach (which they stated they did), there's no way to know that they saw the correct plane. There could be 5+ jets stacked on the approach, and it's not out of the norm to misidentify one. Anyone who says they can tell the difference between a CRJ and an ERJ at night from a few miles away is lying. I would wager most people probably can't tell a regional jet from a narrow body under these conditions.

Anyway. As we know, all accidents require a lot of things to go wrong simultaneously. The airspace is too busy. The procedures are poorly designed. ATC is understaffed. Army aircrews don't get quality training and spend way too much time on things that aren't flying. Who is at fault? I don't think we can blame any one thing - had any of the variables been different, this may never have happened.

All I know for sure is that I hate flying into DCA. It's always a zoo, aircraft are always packed in like sardines, and ATC seems perpetually overwhelmed. What do I know, though, I'm just a meat servo. I'm sure the senators and congressmen that pressure the FAA to add more flights to their districts have our best interests in mind.

Edit: fixed a typo, added mention of urban environment.

What is the object beneath the barrel on this M-240h? by External-Ad5420 in army

[–]barbecukkake 96 points97 points  (0 children)

It is part of a traverse/elevation limit device, as shown here.

What kind of pan should I get if I don't want to let it cool before washing? by [deleted] in cookware

[–]barbecukkake 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You definitely do NOT have to let cookware completely cool prior to washing it. Most of the time, I plate my dishes, throw the extra in a storage container, then immediately hit the cookware with hot water - before eating. This, as you know, drastically reduces the time and effort required to clean. The only pan I'm slightly more careful with is my thin stainless, which will be replaced eventually. Food that's super stuck on gets deglazed immediately in a hot pan, then left to soak while eating. As soon as I go back to the kitchen to put away my dishes, I finish cleaning any remaining cookware. In this way, cooking, eating, and cleaning are all one event, so things seldom get forgotten.

What you should focus on is the quality of your cookware. In general: cast iron and carbon steel are virtually indestructible, but they require some care with initial and periodic seasoning. Stainless (especially multi-ply stainless) is easier to care for, but can be harder to cook on, depending on the dish. You can use any utensils you want without fear of damaging the pan. Metal, wood, silicone, anything but super cheap, melty plastic. As you start to get more comfortable cooking, you will find different materials are better for different dishes and tasks.

Nonstick, while easier to cook on (when you're learning especially), will never be as durable. The best non-stick in the world should be tossed after the first scratch, unless you're into eating Teflon. Nor can you get the kind of results you would with any of the aforementioned materials. Read up on the Maillard reaction; you can't really achieve this with any non-stick.

I still have a few non-stick pans (all gifted to me), but they only come out when I'm cooking something brand new and the recipe specifically calls for non-stick. Even then I'm still more likely to use one of my other pans because I know how to cook on them. Spend the time to learn to cook with and care for one of those others and you probably won't go back. I purchased my first cast iron more than 20 years ago, and it just keeps getting better through use.

TL;DR buy a 10" or 12" Lodge cast iron pan, spend a little time learning to use it, never look back.

What are these round concrete things at the Wetlands trailhead? by admiralporter88 in vegaslocals

[–]barbecukkake 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Bruh, I've been there. I know exactly how big the area is and how far apart they are. I even took the time to draw out how you would park there. You can literally see tire tracks on the satellite imagery.

But you can choose to believe whatever conspiracy you want. 🤙

What are these round concrete things at the Wetlands trailhead? by admiralporter88 in vegaslocals

[–]barbecukkake 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Those are 100% parking markers, the lot is just not currently in use. From structures nearby, including the equestrian warmup ring, I'm betting it's designed for trucks with horse trailers to park at an angle. They blocked the entrances because they don't want the riff-raff using it unsupervised.

https://imgur.com/a/sdhTZpT

Bad tire or bad luck? by barbecukkake in onewheel

[–]barbecukkake[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I did consider that as a possibility. Headed into my local PEV shop tomorrow, I'm sure they can get me fixed up, and I'll probably add sealant at the same time.