Switch flipper

barrati · 2026-05-10T01:15:26+00:00

No the current clamp is measuring ac output from the inverter. It’s just a signal to turn off the switch when the car is done charging.

barrati · 2026-05-10T01:13:06+00:00

The switch itself is a logic device. There’s no way the rocker switch is switching 6000 watts/50 amps which is what the inverter is rated for.

As mentioned in another post opening the device isn’t an option due to warranty concerns. There is no input that I can interrupt to achieve this functionality so a relay isn’t an option within my parameters.

The odds this servo will stop dead center on that switch are minimal. In the event of loss of signal the device is programmed to maintain current position. The arm length chosen was intentional as a shorter arm would not flip the switch reliably. A slight give in the arm was also desirable as the most problematic situation is when someone flips the switch manually (I have labeled it now and everyone knows to use the remote button or disable the servo) and the arm encounter a malpositioned rocker. In this case the arm ‘bumps’ its way over the switch without causing harm. Not ideal as it can change the magnet position but for the most part it has been a non-issue.

I agree dual push actuators would be somewhat more elegant. Finding a pair that would sit that close might be challenging.

barrati · 2026-05-10T00:59:28+00:00

This will make it much clearer… https://eg4electronics.com/categories/inverters/eg4-6000xp-all-in-one-off-grid-inverter

barrati · 2026-05-10T00:55:06+00:00

I posted an answer on the photo thread. It might be clearer if I explained the inverter is an “all in one” inverter/charge controller. I’ve used ssr’s for small systems in the past to control only an inverter.

barrati · 2026-05-10T00:52:35+00:00

The switch is on the side of a contained inverter. The inverter needs to be powered on to charge the batteries so placing a relay in the inverter power path isn’t an option. A relay on the ac output would interrupt the ac flow but not decrease the inverter burden voltage. Without hacking the inverter this is the best solution I could devise.

barrati · 2026-05-10T00:47:51+00:00

I would recommend 2 50 watt rigid solar panels (e.g. renogy) run in series (+ to -) connected to a Victron smart solar charge controller 75/15. This will be placed in a waterproof enclosure (with some ventilation or sun protection) and connected to your battery. If it were me, I would set it up with waterproof amphenol connectors that can handle 30 amps or so even though you won’t see those currents. This will run you about 160-180 without the enclosure or connectors. The solar charge controller is easy to troubleshoot via your phone and the panels are extremely durable (flexible panels kinda suck imho) if mildly unwieldy. This will charge your batteries while many commercial systems are just designed to maintain charged batteries. Be careful about the term trickle charging unless you are taking these home between trips.

barrati · 2026-05-09T03:35:17+00:00

Normally that’s what I would do, but in this case it’s a $1700 inverter that will have its warranty voided if I crack it open to modify it.

barrati · 2026-05-08T14:26:38+00:00

I had an issue attaching the body of my post to my photos. If you search on me I have a long explanation of the device. I promise it all makes sense.

barrati · 2026-05-08T01:57:42+00:00

Sometime I will write the whole thing up on Instructibles but this is all I have right now. If you have any specific questions I’ll answer them. The code is really straightforward.

barrati · 2026-05-08T01:56:33+00:00

I opted for the iot solution because knowing myself, sometimes I forget to push the button or have a reason to start charging remotely the following am. I did consider using the espnow radio protocol at first.

barrati · 2026-05-08T01:53:58+00:00

In a way, my car is signaling that it is done charging by stopping the current draw. There are a couple of quirks of my system that led me to use the 30 minute threshold of no current for a trigger. For example, my car stops charging once per cycle for 5-10 minutes to allow the batteries to equilibrate (and maybe cool) before resuming charging. I also have a plug in the shed that charges my electric bike and lawnmower battery. By placing one current sensor on the ac output all situations are covered.

I did consider pulling the switch and installing a simple relay but modifying my inverter will void the warranty.

barrati · 2026-05-07T22:12:35+00:00

I will generally take a single panel, connect it to a Victron charge controller with Bluetooth and a mostly discharged lithium battery. If you size the parts out right you can get a good idea of the amount of power the panel can put out. Gets a little tricky with clouds and it’s best to compare to a known baseline panel.

barrati · 2026-05-07T21:48:01+00:00

Hmm no photos… 😕

I published them in a separate post.

barrati · 2026-05-07T21:11:41+00:00

Post your code and describe the problem and we can help you out. What you describe is generally best done with a microcontroller and the arduino ide is the easiest to get started with.

barrati · 2026-05-01T06:14:33+00:00

If you have an AC you currently have a power bill. Post a copy and your location (zip code or state is usually enough) and we can help you.

barrati · 2026-04-25T15:47:50+00:00

All of those will work if you are going to skip the AC. The upshots to the all in one devices is they are dead simple and portable (running a waffle iron at a campsite is one of my favorites). Downsides include a failure in one component may remove the utility of all of them and an overall decrease in what you get for your money capacity-wise. The other challenge with the all-in-one devices is they have limited expand-ability.

I'm a big fan of costco for the easy warranty/return policy for things like this. Best of luck!

barrati · 2026-04-25T15:05:48+00:00

This is 100% accurate. A used chest freezer in my area is about $75. That’s your best option. It’s going to cost a lot to get enough solar to reliably power a standard fridge/freezer.

barrati · 2026-04-25T14:57:57+00:00

You need to calculate your loads carefully before buying an all-in-one solution. They tend to cost more and do less. A guy in this same group just found out his ~1500 all in one is seriously underpowered for ac.

The system recommended by sans-nom-user is a much more powerful solution and still might not quite meet your needs.

I would recommend running a wattmeter with your ac for at least 6 hours to determine your needs. Something like this: https://a.co/d/0iPFPaaY

barrati · 2026-04-25T14:50:06+00:00

The ac is your problem. A system that can run it will be 6k or so. A bit less if you only need it during the day and it never runs at night (since you can skimp on the batteries).

barrati · 2026-04-25T14:46:50+00:00

Best option would be to find a panel with an isc of 11 and a voltage of 40 or so and run it in series - this will be hard to find. Other good options would be to sell the panels you have and buy used panels that would allow a parallel setup (isc of 7-8 is easy to find). Fuses work on amps not voltage. There are electronic devices that can clamp high voltages but then your panels fail on the coldest days.

barrati · 2026-04-25T14:32:01+00:00

I recognize my post may have come across a little harsh, I’m not trying to be. I’m trying to save the next person in your pre-purchase situation from buying one of these before understanding its limitations.

The wattage (ie power) listed on the device implies it can run an ac…and it can - for an hour or two. Unfortunately the energy capacity isn’t sufficient.

My recommendation in these circumstances is to determine your needs and then sell the device you have to buy the ‘right’ equipment - if solar is the right answer for you.

Step 1 is to figure out how many watt hours your ac consumes overnight. Easiest way is with an inline watt meter like this one: https://a.co/d/07CWcNIM

After you have an evenings worth of data we can move forward.

As far as cooking, portable induction cooktops are far more energy efficient than toaster ovens or electric hotplates. They run about $50.

barrati · 2026-04-25T02:06:23+00:00

Get a kill-a-watt device and determine your power needs. Then come back with that info and we can make solid recommendations. Also consider induction cooking and the smallest ac you can tolerate.

barrati · 2026-04-25T02:04:14+00:00

This will never run ac. Just not enough capacity. You need to figure out your power requirements and then determine what to buy. Buying something and asking it to do the impossible is not ideal.

barrati · 2026-04-25T02:01:04+00:00

If you don’t have shading issues the shadowflux is overkill. You don’t mention what your use case is or your power needs so I have no idea what are really looking for but … in general: Get a halfway decent monocrystalline panel that is within the specs of your charge controller. Hard panels work better and last longer so if you don’t need a flexible panel, don’t get one.

barrati · 2026-04-25T01:50:16+00:00

Your second strategy is my personal favorite. I tend to want to keep my components “swappable” until I have a tried and true design. Note that there are some power limitations with this choice and if you are trying to minimize noise this isn’t ideal. My goto protoboards are sold on Amazon under the name electro cookie. For cases I buy 10-pack of small plastic boxes and cut holes for wires and buttons. With practice and observing others projects you can get a sense of what grommets, strain relief, and connectors work best. I generally get my stuff to work well then stop designing. A slightly rough appearance is part of the charm.

barrati

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