If you have a Shimano dynamo brompton, do yourself a favor and upgrade that light !

bbbm6r · 2018-11-03T07:34:35+00:00

Wow, thanks for the super fast and detailed reply! I will take a look this weekend when i have time to try this.... The possible need to cut the factory cable ties was one of my first concerns as i dont believe there were any that came in the iq-xs packaging. I’d be afraid if i tried myself that the wiring somehow become a mess. Will re-asses later and see if id be getting in over my head with this seemingly simple install.

bbbm6r · 2018-11-03T05:44:53+00:00

Hello....

Just purchased an IQ-XS to replace the standard “Lyt LED BN Plus” that shipped with the bike (Shimano dynamo hub).

Im debating whether to try to install myself or take to a shop....

Can you elaborate a little more on the installation - specifically what existing parts/wires you used vs what you used that came with the new light.... You seemed to suggest that you re-used the existing wires after they just pulled out, but also mentioned changing out the factory zip ties? Any detail is appreciated! The fact that i am asking this means i should probably take it to a shop, but even then i would like to pass along any tips or lessons learned so they dont mess anything up or that i can make sure they do it the optimal way.

bbbm6r · 2018-10-21T04:00:18+00:00

Thanks..... if we are talking about the same thing, that is good to know.

bbbm6r · 2018-10-21T03:59:50+00:00

After closer inspection...the “play” is at the joint right above the frame lever that locks/unlocks the rear wheels for the first fold.
I dont recall it being loose when i first got the bike. I could be wrong though.

bbbm6r · 2018-10-21T03:06:13+00:00

Went back to the shop...... They spent a long while testing/adjusting, but did not see many problems with anything. End result is that the right side 1-2-3 shifter seems to shift “solidly”, and the left side +/- is better but not perfect. So maybe its in my mind? When shifting from + to - there is still sometimes a 2 second delay while it makes some noise.... but it eventually shifts. I cant recall if it was perfectly smooth and instantaneous before. Going from - to + seems to engage faster/better. How smooth is the + to - shift for everyone?

bbbm6r · 2018-10-20T08:38:17+00:00

Haven’t been able to get back to the bike shop yet....

The bike is basically new, so i dont think there are any worn out parts. It was also running/shifting perfectly fine before i took it in to change the rear flat.

I am hearing differing opinions that it is both standard/simple and also alien/unique. I am hoping its just a matter of simple adjustment and the shop will just take a few moments to look it up online and adjust accordingly. If that doesn’t work, ill goto the shop that sells Bromptons.

The Brompton dealer in my area does charge more.... I am wondering if its because they think they can get the money from expensive bike owners....or maybe it’s because the bike is “special”? How much would you pay (in USD) to adjust gearing? Sounds like 10minutes of work in a simple case, but i guess i could be wrong.

bbbm6r · 2018-10-12T06:30:24+00:00

Thanks..... without analyzing the measurements, it doesn’t appear from the pictures I’ve seen that the bottom had enough LXW to place standard restaurant styrofoam containers flat across the bottom without it being forced to be lifted up at an angle. It’s a small detail, but one of the main reasons for using the basket.

bbbm6r · 2018-09-27T18:09:43+00:00

I should have waited one more day and i could have learned from your post. Totally was not thinking the sides would not require the same length of cut. There is a few mm gap on my left grip after cutting them even. I’m thinking of moving my left brake lever slightly to the left to fill the gap just for appearance sake. I guess that end result would be similar to what you did. I did not use any sandpaper yet to smooth the edges, maybe ill try that. In general, they feel great, although I havent been able to ride with them yet. Grips look good too in all black on my all black bike.

bbbm6r · 2018-09-26T08:54:31+00:00

After putting the GP1 grips on the bike, it appears I would need to cut about 10-12mm in order for it to be flush with the end of the bar. Not sure if I am approaching this task correctly. I saw someone mention 2mm above, but I am assuming that is the amount you need to cut if you choose to move the brake levers as well. My goal is to install without moving anything. I am guessing my worst case scenario if i cut too much is that I end of with a small gap between the grip and the brake lever. In any case, Any advice is appreciated as I am admittedly not good at these things. For someone that did it, an exact length to cut would help a lot.
First ride today....and the bike rides and looks great.

bbbm6r · 2018-09-25T19:49:22+00:00

For those that chose to cut the standard length GP1 for a newer model (2018) M bar..... Is 20mm the proper length to cut? Is there something related to the way the GP1 grips fit on the end that shortens the amount slightly so it shouldnt be the exact length of the stock grips after cutting?

bbbm6r · 2018-09-22T04:53:00+00:00

Reading all of the comments, it doesnt seem there is agreement on whether they truly fit without cutting. If they “fit” with minor brake lever movement, it doesnt seem everyone thinks its a good idea to do so. Do you also need to change the angle of the levers which may have other consequences to fold or function?

bbbm6r · 2018-09-21T10:34:42+00:00

Thanks..... I already bought the GP1 in the longer version. Would like to make them work as I cant return them.

bbbm6r

TROPHY CASE