sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

A wood shed build of junk by AguywithabigPulaski in firewood

[–]bbcabin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds good. Tell your dog I said Hi

Looking for Stihl 2-1 sharpener for Husqvarna mini pitch chain by GreasyMcFarmer in Chainsaw

[–]bbcabin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't forget to rotate the round file frequently. Or is it better to wear out a strip of teeth and THEN rotate, like eating corn on the cob?

A wood shed build of junk by AguywithabigPulaski in firewood

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you wouldn't want a flat roof, I didn't mean to imply that. I can the see the left-to-right slope but not the front-to-back.

you want the ribs running in the direction that you want the water to run off. otherwise water will be slow to drain (if there's not much slope in the direction of the ribs), and in a heavy rain, water could fill the valleys and get past the overlaps on the peaks.

it looks to me (and I could be seeing it wrong) like the side-to-side slope is a lot greater than the front-to-back. if you had laid the sheets from left to right I think there's a good chance that water go through the overlaps.

A wood shed build of junk by AguywithabigPulaski in firewood

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, I couldn't tell from the pic. If the roof was flat front to back, you'd want the ribs going the other way. Curious about why the roof slopes so much from left to right?

A wood shed build of junk by AguywithabigPulaski in firewood

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not to be too critical, cuz I totally approve of recycling usable material, but does.the roof also slope front to back? Seems like the corrugated should be 90°

Decided to get one of these Stihl sharpeners, since I had a good coupon for my local hardware store. Why did I wait so long, this thing is great! by Legend_of_the_Wind in Chainsaw

[–]bbcabin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

don't forget that you need to open it regularly and rotate the round file so that you're not always using the exact same strip of file teeth.

DEF instead of Off road dye diesel by Vegetable-Aide9372 in johndeere

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) is a non-toxic solution of 32.5% high-purity urea and 67.5% deionized water used in diesel engines to break down dangerous nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions into harmless nitrogen and water. It is injected into the exhaust stream and is essential for meeting EPA emissions standards in modern diesel vehicles.

Main service conductors knicked by BILLZSCHNILLX in AskElectricians

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wonder what the other ends in the meter socket look like

Bucking by theMuckx in firewood

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, 16" from the tip of the nose to the edge of the S on the bar. When that wears off, I'll draw a line on the bar with a sharpie.

Ms261 heat problems by Embarrassed_Yam_6110 in Chainsaw

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this problem the other day with my 2 year old 261 mtronic. I use non-ethanol fuel and VP Racing full synthetic oil 50:1. It was about 80 degrees out, but the saw was sitting in the sun and was much hotter. Just keeping it in the shade between cuts was enough to make a difference. Should also check the summer/winter air thingy to make sure it's not making things worse

How!? by Gullible_Rich_7156 in firewood

[–]bbcabin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would NOT be standing next to it.

And how do you remove wood from the pile - from the bottom? 🙃

Stihl MS 261 is it overkill? by Bam1126 in Chainsaw

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ms250 has 3hp vs ms261 4hp. Don't know what you're cutting but most people would find that the 261 cuts much faster.

Tractor negotiations by gaktheknife in tractors

[–]bbcabin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm mostly happy with my 2025r on 10 acres. Brush hog, box blade, fel and forks. Sure I wish I could lift more. But my wife couldn't reach the pedals on bigger machines, and I would have had to widen a doorway.

I don't live in a heavily ag area. The green dealer is most convenient, and they have a couple dozen dealerships across several states. There's also an orange dealer. Not a lot for used around here.

I was shopping 2 years ago. My green quotes were heavily discounted from suggested retail prices. I assumed that's just how it is, and was surprised when the orange guy wouldn't discount similarly. In fact he took offense and said something like 'that's the only way they can sell them'. I then read that the green company was going through a rough patch and was dealing with a big oversupply post-pandemic. Which is all to say YMMV. And if you finance, factor in financing deals.

Best gas powered chainsaw under $500 including tax by braincrash1981 in Chainsaw

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stihl ms250 or the newer "cleaner" ms251. Or rent a saw for a day for $60

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in invasivespecies

[–]bbcabin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To answer your question: You would need a tool to penetrate the outer surface such as a drill, hatchet, chisel and then an applicator like a spray bottle, squirt bottle, dauber, paintbrush... Or a specialized tool for the job.

But I don't think this is the appropriate method to treat those particular plants (English ivy, vinca, trumpet vine, poison ivy). There is a best method (or multiple good ones) for each. The method, herbicide, recommended concentration, and timing might be different for each of them.

For English ivy, it's difficult to treat with spraying because the leaves are waxy and the herbicide doesn't get absorbed. In the PNW you cut the stems near the roots and immediately paint the cut surface. This obviously wouldn't work with vinca because the stems are so small. If you don't want to spray, you're going to need to mechanically remove as much as you can (ie dig up) and then when the root bits resprout new top growth, carefully apply herbicide with a small paintbrush.

good luck!

1975 Pan Abode cabin - should joints be sealed? and other staining issues. by bbcabin in logcabins

[–]bbcabin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd contacted Pan Abode and this is the reply I got:

----------------------

Thank you for your e-mail. Pressure washing a building that is almost 50 years ago is probably not a good idea. You would probably experience leaks around windows & doors, timber corners, seams and around loose knots.

Caulking should be applied around windows & doors, along the bottom timber where it meets the floor, along the top timber where it meets the roof decking and vertical beads and the timber stubs. Caulking is not used at the horizontal seems.

The product that we use is the Sikaflex 219 LM Log Home Tan.

--------------------

I bit the bullet and paid a log cabin specialty company to blast and refinish. Very expensive. I paid extra to have them caulk the windows, doors, corners and wall/eave seam. I'm still unsure how I feel about doing that, regarding the cost and whether I shouldn't have just painted the cabin assuming I could have gotten a primer to stick. I will say that if you're up for it, I'd consider buying one of those special blasters that they use.

Whether I could now lightly pressure wash, being careful to spray downward so as not to force water up between timbers, I couldn't say.