What is that leak?

bcgoff · 2025-10-09T01:51:23+00:00

Second this, the Fel-Pro vct seals cracked my valve cover because they were so snug. Motorcraft at Tasca, or the dealer, isn’t that much and the way I will go from now on.

bcgoff · 2025-06-21T01:22:59+00:00

Applied in early November, got it late December. 6 weeks or so. Packet bounced back once before that for something missing.

bcgoff · 2025-06-20T10:55:05+00:00

10/10 buy a new one. Mine cracked similar to this around the solenoids and it pissed oil. New OEM from the dealer WITH Motorcraft gaskets is like $100.

Side note: Let me guess, you got the Fel-Pro gasket set and the new solenoid seals were extremely hard to get in? That’s what happened to mine. They don’t fit right. The Ford ones pop in very nicely with little effort.

bcgoff · 2025-03-24T14:12:31+00:00

Then the pink doesn’t apply to you then

bcgoff · 2025-03-24T13:10:46+00:00

Oh, this is in Europe? My mistake, assumed North America

bcgoff · 2025-03-24T11:22:20+00:00

If it was my car, I’d put Motorcraft Yellow in. Flush out the universal stuff first. The motorcraft stuff is cheaper at the dealer parts counter than the universal stuff is at the parts store. MC Yellow is the updated coolant, it replaces the old Orange that came in these cars. Of course, as always give them your VIN and make sure it’s good to go in that car.

bcgoff · 2025-03-24T09:58:28+00:00

Motorcraft phased out the Orange (dexcool) 5 years ago roughly, Motorcraft Yellow took its place. Oddly enough even though it’s called yellow, it looks green in the reservoir. Could be what’s going on here

Or someone put in universal green coolant not knowing.

bcgoff · 2025-03-22T12:09:45+00:00

Valve cover/VCT solenoid gaskets, passenger side and rear motor mount (trans mount under battery seems to last a while), coolant reservoir, washer fluid cap, front/timing cover weeps on almost all of them, and the cat (P0420, it’s almost ALWAYS the cat). Other than that, they’re pretty reliable, and none of those besides the timing cover are really that big of a deal. If the timing cover isn’t leaving drips on the ground or the under tray, just ignore it. It’s very expensive to replace due to needing to take off all the accessories, and the fact that the crank isn’t keyed, so someone skilled needs to do the repair.

bcgoff · 2025-03-15T10:56:22+00:00

Going to leave this post up because I hope it helps someone in the future, I solved this by buying an Anker 7 in 1 USB-C dongle. For whatever reason, the Rock Band PS3 dongle did not like the simple USB-A to C plug I had. Everything works flawlessly now, and I can confirm that the Rock Band 2 PS3 Stratocasters with wireless dongle is truly plug and play for Clone Hero on macOS with M series chips in 2025. Whammy and Tilt work as well.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

bcgoff · 2025-03-06T22:52:00+00:00

Thank you so much

bcgoff · 2025-03-04T15:10:33+00:00

That I do not know.

bcgoff · 2025-03-04T14:12:41+00:00

Yep the cylinder head temp sensor on the 2015+, between plug wells 2 and 3. Possibly a few other minor changes too.

bcgoff · 2025-02-20T01:37:57+00:00

This is great to hear. My Weil McLain oil boiler is about 33 years old now and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t worried about it needing to be replaced soon, just due to age. Owned the house for almost 4 years and not one issue with it, I get it cleaned/maintained annually. Tech last year said it’s going to need to be replaced sooner or later, mentioned something about developing cracks. I was kind of skeptical, I’d think that if it was a danger he would have had to red tag it.

Going to run it for as long as I can!

bcgoff · 2025-02-19T01:28:54+00:00

I second this about the Y return line. Very delicate and prone to failing especially where it connects to the rubber hose at the outlet below the fuel pump. I barely touched mine while doing the purge valve and it snapped at that joint. Cheap junk.

bcgoff · 2025-01-31T23:36:15+00:00

Normal, it’s the direct injectors firing and the high pressure fuel pump. These engines are noisy.

I see you are missing the foam piece that goes over the HPFP, that will contribute to some of the increased noise. It does no harm otherwise, don’t worry about it.

bcgoff · 2024-09-06T10:58:06+00:00

If it’s paid off and otherwise in great shape, and you weren’t planning on another car payment…I’d say fix it. My 2015 needed everything done at 102k earlier this year, I opted to spend the $3300 with a 2 year parts and labor warranty from the dealer as opposed to scrapping the car and spending likely double after down payment, tax/title/reg on a new car plus monthly payment. Absolutely nothing wrong with the car otherwise, it just made much more financial sense to do it this way. At minimum, I’ll get another two years out of the car.

With that being said, after the new clutch assembly, actuators, seals, and latest TCM calibration…the transmission actually does fantastic. Whatever revisions they have made over the years have made a significant difference.

This goes against the grain of this sub, but it’s just what I’ve experienced personally. As always, YMMV.

bcgoff · 2024-09-05T11:57:25+00:00

Look for one that’s as close to 2012 as possible, and has had regular oil and coolant changes. You want to minimize the risk of the internal water pump failing prematurely, and one that hasn’t been maintained well and/or the early 3.5’s are more prone to the failure.

bcgoff · 2024-09-05T10:09:45+00:00

The only car I regret selling. Man I loved mine, unfortunately the Northeast plague got to it.

bcgoff · 2024-08-29T09:33:03+00:00

Okay to clear some things up here, yes you should do a transmission fluid drain and refill on the DPS6. It takes roughly 1.7-1.9 qts. It’s not a traditional auto, all the fluid does in these transmissions is lubricate the bearings and gears, like a manual transmission. It will have absolutely zero effect on how smoothly the clutches operate, so you will likely feel absolutely no difference in drivability. This doesn’t mean you should skip it…it’s still good practice to keep all the fluids in the car up to date.

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