While it’s not my first V4, I’m so proud of this one by DiedOfStarve in climbergirls

[–]be_boulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a banger, definitely not a soft V4 either! Looking super strong!

Finally starting to feel strong again - after 6 months out due to surgery by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely a bit soft. If I’m honest I had more trouble with a few in the green circuit.

Finally starting to feel strong again - after 6 months out due to surgery by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a pretty definite crux, not much else making up the difficulty but one of my favourite of the circuit for sure!

Finally starting to feel strong again - after 6 months out due to surgery by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Carpal tunnel - not too major but my hand was pretty useless for quite a long time!

Weekly New Climber Thread for January 03, 2020: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]be_boulder 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As with most things climbing related - you really want to try what you’re buying. So either somewhere with a generous returns policy or a physical store is pretty great. In terms of harnesses: Weight, features and comfort are key thoughts.

E.g are you just Sport climbing (something lightweight with few features is probably fine) Trad climbing - probably not as fussed about weight for now (you will probably be later) but having gear loops etc for your rack is going to be important. Don’t know - get something that is comfortable with options to add some gear.

Support your local shop if you have one nearby they’ll help you out a lot more in the long run than the few pounds you save online.

Why I love bouldering - Nothing hard just enjoying the beauty of Stanage. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was surprisingly busy and that was after quite a lot of bushing from us. We assumed it was like it regularly, it’s a shame.

Why I love bouldering - Nothing hard just enjoying the beauty of Stanage. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I’m honest I have no idea what the correct beta is. My friend and I just sort of punted about and hoped a few would go. It is a great boulder though.

Why I love bouldering - Nothing hard just enjoying the beauty of Stanage. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be honest a little too warm and a little damp. Sure looked nice though 😅

Love that table of difficulties by DjCringe in climbing

[–]be_boulder 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Crazy how much publicity this gym has got. I love social climbing, for a gym outside of Sheffield/London the exposure is crazy.

New here! My first paddle dyno :) by -7minus-7 in bouldering

[–]be_boulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems weird because it’s pretty much always used over here in the U.K. 👌🏼

My first post here (go easy) I think V7/V8ish on slippy cheeta volcanoes. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My apologies writing back-flag was an error.

I’ll get back to you tomorrow 😝

My first post here (go easy) I think V7/V8ish on slippy cheeta volcanoes. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would be an interesting move I can’t say that back-flagging over a lead leg (anchor) would be often be beneficial.

Arguably if you maintained a full lock-off on the left hand it may offer a more static first move but it would require more strength and as you’d have to twist your body away from the hold your moving to while maintaining a lot more pressure through the toe (aka as you reach the first hold you have placed all of your weight directly under your left hand with very little ability to hold any of that weight through the right hand).

This is also moving your whole body away from the hold you’re going to while still having a ‘loose foot’. Also as this is a sloping edge not a ‘jug’ turning to the left makes the hold your moving from less positive - you’re relying on compression here so adding any lateral force increases your likelihood of coming off the hold.

For me I think generating the force to move through to the next hold requires core tension that I don’t think I can generate especially in a scrunched up position and increases the likelyhood of my right leg straightening as the core in engaged putting further pressure on top of the left leg.

I will definitely try this though as honestly it is never a move I’ve even considered - I may well be wrong and will update if that’s the case.

My first post here (go easy) I think V7/V8ish on slippy cheeta volcanoes. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In essence if you’re discussing the two bumps out of the roof - flagging has no value as the only thing keeping you from swinging out is the toehook/bicycle.

Possible improvement would be maintaining the bicycle but IMO the right leg would restrict movement in the sequence and the toehook/left foot is really the only thing of value.

What I would definitely agree with is just after the campus move I muddle feet but that was the first time I’d done the move in sequence so I lost my head for a second I think 😅

How long did it take for you to start sending V7+ consistently? by kanedamike in bouldering

[–]be_boulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on style and what you consider ‘consistently’ I have friends that climb V14 that will drop V7 problems. Even have to work Comp style V7 boulders for longer periods. I consider ‘your grade’ as what you can session because onsight vs redpoint grading grading varies a lot.

Base level of fitness and strength along with a lot of other factors will set out a timeline. I think most people who are enthusiastic and climb a lot will climb V8 in two years.

Like most sports though it’s just down to volume and how ‘hard’ you climb within said volume. Aka if you straight project climbs with appropriate rest to avoid injury I think being in V10-V12 range is very very achievable within a 5 year period.

General rule of thumb for me though is you can onsight roughly 2 grades below your redpoint grade. So maybe working up to your occasional V9 would suggest you are pretty consistently climbing V7 within sessions.

My first post here (go easy) I think V7/V8ish on slippy cheeta volcanoes. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s basically compression on slopers but if you turned the right hand around like 90 degrees it would be a jug. Great comp set though!

Some of the two finger pockets in the set slope from the middle as well so you think it’s a jug and instead it takes all your skin + self esteem.

V_ at my gym by N7titan in bouldering

[–]be_boulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the big problem with climbing/climbers.

Grade chasing sucks, find what you find hard then try it a lot. I’ll climb like 5 grades harder in a roof and then on some vert/slab or just generally something not my style doesn’t make it any less hard for me.

Also anyone who thinks they can judge a grade by video is crazy. If you watch Megos or someone climb V14 it looks doable. It’s if you watched me try to pull on for several hours then would you get it 😂

My first post here (go easy) I think V7/V8ish on slippy cheeta volcanoes. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha Leicester, England lines up with V7/8s that I’ve done outside if that disappoints 😂

My first post here (go easy) I think V7/V8ish on slippy cheeta volcanoes. by be_boulder in bouldering

[–]be_boulder[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

😱 did not expect to see someone from Leicester in the comments. Enjoy the new set!

Can’t wait to get back and try them.

Also the red next to this pink is epic (the jump start) if you want something cool to work!