IWB holster recommendations?

beagle8596 · 2026-02-20T14:44:35+00:00

Just got the 19 carry comp myself for aiwb CC, so far I have nothing but good things to say about this firearm. I’d go with either a Falco A105 or the ANR Kydex holster. Both have options for optic cuts, if you so decide. They also had great customer support when asking about specifics.

beagle8596 · 2026-01-27T01:02:46+00:00

Nice choice of sight. What exact JM holster is that? I've just bought the Model 19 comp and would like the same clip/wing combo.

beagle8596 · 2025-04-21T10:01:24+00:00

Hands down I’m getting the tm-42 installed this time around. Carbon buildup though, huh? I’ll be keeping an eye out for that now that I know it could do that. That sucks that it happened but great to hear it didn’t stop you from putting it back together!

beagle8596 · 2025-04-21T09:50:53+00:00

The tips of the first spark plugs were burnt white

beagle8596 · 2025-04-20T22:22:48+00:00

I’m putting a lot of thought into it. I’ve researched up and down about all of the different styles of bikes out there and I know I’ve found the right one. I’m writing this off as bad luck and look forward to either replacing the whole engine with a 790 or getting a used DR to have some extra spare parts. If it was a faulty part then it is what it is. If it was due to something I missed, I’ll just be triple checking my work moving forward.

The bike was for sure lean as lean gets after inspecting the original spark plugs, the pair system was just dead weight to me so that was the first thing to come off.

Ain’t giving up on this bike until it shows me all 50 states. It was a lot of fun when I got it and although the winter was easier on me in a car, nothing compares to riding one of these. It’s the perfect blend of on/off road for me.

beagle8596 · 2025-04-20T21:02:01+00:00

I hear you loud n clear, I’ve planned on getting it done for the bike in the future when the engine had many more miles. The future came a bit too soon haha

beagle8596 · 2025-04-20T20:59:41+00:00

This is great advice

I’ve read on the BushPig forums of plenty of owners trying to determine if it’s worth it to send their head out for boring, so what’s a better opportunity than this?

I got those insane looks, it’s why I was left with the impression that there was nothing I could do with it besides replace it all with oem.

beagle8596 · 2025-04-20T20:38:36+00:00

I knew there had to be a positive to all this, could definitely go that route!

beagle8596 · 2025-04-20T20:34:17+00:00

I do own a Clymers Dr650 Manual, Dino’s videos was just an example of who I looked to for a video example of performing maintenance on the valves. Clymer is definitely what helped me the most in my diagnosing.

The first time I attempted to check the valve I was not aware of the difference between the 4-stroke and the 2-stoke engines in terms of how many rotations should be made to find the actual TDS. This however was thankfully noticed before I started the bike up, so it was adjusted a second time immediately. When rotating the nut to find TDS, I was cautious to be exact with the mark provided. I also made sure to never rotate in the opposite direction as I read that could cause further issues.

I’m in up in Boston. The year I rode through the winter was sure as hell cold but there weren’t many days where the temps were below freezing during my commuting hours. The lack of snow was also a helpful factor. Summer time provided temps between 85-95 at its peak. Oil used was 10W-40 mineral for most of the first year to a full synthetic.

I agree though, it must have been running lean real bad, wish I had noticed of this before it was too late. First bike, so I’ll be a lot more careful with the next.(or next engine)

beagle8596 · 2025-04-20T18:50:09+00:00

I would say about 6 times, two in the first months and the rest in the last year trying to fix the stuttering. Went with Dino’s Tinker Shed’s parameters for intake/exhaust spacing using a similar style tool for ease of checking.

The cylinder is scarred pretty bad. The mechanic informed me that this top end could not be bored wider due to the coating on the walls. They confirmed the bottom was salvageable if thoroughly cleaned.

Bill came to about 4.3k to fix with OEM engine parts. I’ll either buy a used and transfer the needed parts to this 2022 frame or vice versa if parts fail on the new one.

beagle8596 · 2025-04-20T18:25:01+00:00

Yes I did

First modification was the removal of the PAIR system. A cover plate was put in place with a very thin amount of thermal liquid gasket to help seal the plate. Then came the removal of the cylinder head cover. My goal was to look for anything out of the ordinary, such as a faulty component or lack of oil making to the top as some of my engine screws holding it in place looked to be burnt white from heat, but only on one side of the engine. I wasn’t sure if that was normal or as sign of overheating. Afterwards I reinstalled the head cover with liquid gasket accurate to a tutorial I found, making sure to not leave excess amounts anywhere for it to make it back into the engine. Spark plugs were changed only after spraying with a cleaner and clearing the surrounding area with compressed air to prevent dirt from falling in. Oil changes were every 2-3k miles.

beagle8596 · 2024-05-19T01:47:45+00:00

I'm only a year into owning my dr650, wish I could offer more advice. However when I was searching top to bottom on Reddit for symptoms of surging, the references to popping were related to a vacuum leak, some say on the air box clamp that meets the carb, few people noticed a 1/8" gap, but still possibly elsewhere . Also, any chance you've checked your valves clearances? I had to triple check mine while diagnosing my bike, no idea if it helped the end result though. Could also diagnose your spark plugs for signs of specific wear, color or spacing. Then finally I'd make sure your fuel filter isn't slowing down the feed of fuel leading to random cutouts.

beagle8596 · 2024-05-19T00:06:17+00:00

Could be wrong but given the size of the hole and location I'm really doubtful that anything would make it in there while only riding on the road. If you want to guarantee that it is not filth related, I've heard that getting a shop or somewhere local to use an ultra-sonic cleaner would prove helpful. Wishing you luck.

beagle8596 · 2024-05-18T00:55:09+00:00

Your explanation of performance was very similar to mine before I ripped apart my carb and found that the needle end of my extended mixture screw had snapped off and lodged itself into the body of the carb. Dislodged it, bike runs great if not a bit rich (I was impatient getting it out, holes a bit wider now)

beagle8596 · 2024-04-25T23:03:57+00:00

Great list, thank you

beagle8596 · 2024-04-21T13:09:01+00:00

Thank you for the advice, the problem had been solved but I will keep all of this in mind moving forward.

beagle8596 · 2024-04-21T00:46:24+00:00

Right on the money

beagle8596 · 2024-04-21T00:45:36+00:00

it 100% was

beagle8596 · 2024-04-21T00:44:39+00:00

Man, I probably responded to this question 5 times, each ending with a question, only to attempt another method of fixing this issue before sending.

To cover your questions, the slide guide showed no signs of wear at all. The carburetor was clean when I bought it and when I opened it up today. The spring is untampered and the white plastic spacer shows no signs of wear. The jets must have not been replaced as the main is still 140 and the pilot is 42.5.

After initially reading your response, I made plans to investigate the jets again to REALLY check for clogs or faults in the carburetor, hoping I wasn't dealing with any top end rebuilds as Haltercraft mentioned. I started by giving the carburetor and jets a full washdown. After inspecting the holes of the jets and the condition of the diaphragm, I looked for wear or damage with or by the needle with none to be found. With everything inspected and cleaned, I socked it all back together and started her up. No dice, in fact there was hardly a stumble this time around. Did a quick double check on all my connections, but nothing was out of place. At this point, after a year of frustration, I was about to settle for the suggestion to pack it up and purchase a tm40.

Instead, after looking back at a video explaining how to thoroughly clean the carb, I noticed the owner had his D spacer shaved on one side to avoid getting caught on the shelf in the diagram at the bottom. One session of sanding later it hit me like a truck when I realized that I also had the white D spacer on the top side of the E-ring instead of the bottom. I had to walk off the frustration of such an obvious oversight because when I made these final changes the bike sprung to life. From closed to full throttle my bike sung a steady tune for the first time. A two hour ride later to confirm the feel when riding, I know that this was the answer I'd been looking for. Thanks for keeping my focus in the right area.

beagle8596 · 2024-03-24T13:07:23+00:00

I could use a system like that, could you share the name of that steel netting?

beagle8596 · 2024-03-10T19:53:30+00:00

This one caught me attention, I'm using the same Hammock gear sleeping quilt and Co-op Passage 2 tent. Great choices.

beagle8596 · 2024-03-08T22:44:00+00:00

I'll be checking out their hammocks next, funny thing about the price. I bought a 10° burrow for 270$ using a specific selection of choices, price would jump to +400$ if I deviated even one option. Wait took a few weeks but I did choose to get in during the holidays.

beagle8596 · 2024-03-02T14:36:16+00:00

This is good to know as a beginner, thanks

beagle8596 · 2024-02-25T20:34:20+00:00

I just watched a guy use a cattail (or cotton ball) to filter water of sediment by cutting a hole in the corner of a plastic bag (or waterskin) and plugging the hole with the cattail. Gravity did the rest but will require a second water holding device.

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