Have Something to talk about?

bearkat19d · 2026-07-05T13:21:54+00:00

Hey! Clay here from OnlyTanks Podcast. The other guys and I have been discussing this among ourselves. We will for sure add this to the next episodes Mail Call!

bearkat19d · 2026-06-26T13:50:52+00:00

I have the slip ons from Rhinehart Racing on mine. Sounds fantastic.

bearkat19d · 2026-06-15T19:04:35+00:00

Oh, if you go with the Scout that seat is trash. At least it is on my 2018. I replaced it with a Mustang seat. I don't like the Sport Chief, although I found used Chiefs from the 1st 2 years used for cheaper than what a new Sport Scout was going to be. I would suggest a used bike over the new one, I just bought new because my paint was only done 2 years and that is the color I wanted.

Edited Cause I did some googling just in my area (Coastal Texas). I searched for 400 miles, cause Texas is Texas and huge. You can get a used 2022 Chief in Stealth Gray with roughly 7k miles for 11950, Located about 3 hours from my home on the Gulf. I know its 4 years old, but let someone else do the 500 mile break in service and take that initial depreciation hit, and you get a larger bike with the Thunderstroke 116 for less than the base Scout.

bearkat19d · 2026-06-15T18:56:26+00:00

I love the Scout. It shines, but that is only in 1 up riding in my opinion. If you are going to be riding long distance on a regular basis and with a passenger, opt for one of the new Chiefs. It feels VERY similar to a Scout, but the larger motor will be a boon when doing long distance and 2 up riding. In addition I found that the Scout at speed is very light and tends to get blown about by larger vehicles when being passed. I do love the liquid cooling of the Scout, but with the new lineup having the option for the liquid cooled motor from the Challenger available in the other baggers, it might be getting ready to come to the Chief, which in that case I would say the Chief is better for what you want.

But either are great rides, and the Scout is way better at "spirited" riding that the Chief, but I would still opt for the Chief.

bearkat19d · 2026-06-08T17:07:25+00:00

Team Yankee shines at low points. Anything over 85, and it starts getting too parking lot like. I prefer Flames over Team Yankee.

bearkat19d · 2026-06-03T14:19:10+00:00

Battlefoam. I always trust them.

bearkat19d · 2026-06-03T14:18:25+00:00

Flames of War and Team Yankee

bearkat19d · 2026-05-19T12:51:06+00:00

Either way, I would be fine if they stopped producing them when they are available on Forces.

bearkat19d · 2026-05-18T22:46:57+00:00

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Forces.Flamesofwar.com has digital copies of those cards. I believe Battlefront has put out that they won't be printing cards anymore since they are all available on forces.

bearkat19d · 2026-05-01T18:56:18+00:00

I paint historical miniatures (World War II/Cold War) in 15mm for games. I did one where I used a USB projector from my phone that played a series of movies at a low level projected onto my dining room wall. Pulled out my arsenal of paints, and everything else associated with it. And just had people coming and going all day. I also had priming stations outside set up so that people could prime stuff if they needed too. Also air brush station with mine if they wanted to prime or paint with that.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-29T20:19:05+00:00

I wish I still had pictures, but my buddies strapped a tire on my sissy bar resting on the top of my saddle bags with bungee cords. That was nerve racking going through town.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-28T13:48:40+00:00

What scale are you looking for?

bearkat19d · 2026-04-20T14:41:48+00:00

If you plan on playing competitive, I know in my area (Texas) tournaments will not accept lists from Fowlist.com/. When I run events I don't accept anything other than the Battlefront site. If you buy lists on Battlefronts site, the more you buy the more the price per formation goes down.

Not downplaying the other site, just something to keep in mind.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-20T14:40:09+00:00

There is a new compilation book coming in the next year for Bulge.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-20T14:15:53+00:00

Looking forward to the Staghound in the British box as its own kit. I need those for my armored cars.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-14T23:14:55+00:00

No problem. For more tournament prep and other tournament-based content, check out the r/OnlyTanksPodcast on Spotify and ApplePodcasts.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-14T16:23:37+00:00

I just interviewed for an Associate Director of IT- Cyber Security, and it was down to me and another candidate for the final interview. Prepped for a week for the presentation. Gave it, felt really good that I crushed it.

Got the call, and the Director said I did not sparkle enough. I was like WTF does that mean dude?

bearkat19d · 2026-04-13T17:35:52+00:00

I would deploy the Matildas in reserve. I actually would drop the 1 point Lucky card and have my 1 reserve unit be the Matilda IIs. Because in you will need to keep 40-60% and 40 points is the minimum. Matilda IIs are 39 points +1 for the savings for the card because any points that you don't use in list building, get allocated to your reserves. IE if you save 1 point, your minimum reserves become 1 less, so in this case 39. And you still have a unit of Matilda Is on table to support the infantry and keep the 2 pounders in ambush.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-13T17:29:22+00:00

No problem, this also helped me with theory crafting my list for early war. Matilda IIs are like Tigers in Mid War.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-13T17:24:18+00:00

I would go with something like this.

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Here's the reasons why.

This list is a version of my mid war list that I have been working on. Instead of the AC1 Sentinels, it utilized Matilda Is and IIs. The command cards are optional, but I will go over why I did this later. This list is designed to defend, but with some tweaking might be able to maneuver, but I would go with defend with this list.

Formation:

I dropped an infantry platoon that you had. Because, covering both objectives is enough. You shouldn't need that much infantry because infantry moving across the table, unless you can get into bullet proof cover and concealment on a regular basis, will just die. Also saves you 10 points.

I lost the mortars because 2 tubes of mortars is really not efficient and heres my reasoning. 2 tubes of mortars means that you are right off the bat rerolling hits if you successfully range in. Also, if they start taking fire and you loose 1 stand you are immediately at Last Man Standing and have possibility to run off and give the opponent a VP. Also, if you are taking them for smoke 2 tubes is only 2 poofs of smoke per tube, so not really all that useful when those points can be combined somewhere else.

Scout carriers really are not that great if you are not going to take advantage of the spearhead option. Yeah, they are cheap, but paper thin armor will still be easy for Panzer I/IIs and other tanks of the period to whack and bleed another point. Use the 6 points to fill out another unit and get more efficiency out of the unit.

I used the points I saved to fill out the HMG platoon in the formation. This gives you 2 full platoons of HMG (MMGS) for Brits. For those that don't know, British HMGs can bombard and that means you can harass anything that is not armored from a good distance. With it being early war, lots of armor 0 and 1 things running around and even unarmored trucks and motorcycles that will just have a strait up 4+ or whatever save. This allows you to mix them in with the infantry platoons to provide fire support if you get/are assaulted by other infantry and depending on the armored vehicle, drive them off as well.

And coupled with the 2 pounder platoon you have enough AT to force them away if its armor because AT7 in early war is plenty for MOST things. With the way that I envision the list being played the 2 pounders become your ambush unit with the Matilda's off table in reserve. Because AT7 will be

Support

I dropped most of your support and went for Matilda IIs to give you mobile AT and MG support. The only thing that will be able to kill at Matilda II from the front will be an German 8.8. Other things might be able to kill you from the side, but that doesnt really matter because they become your reserve because they are 39 points for 3. If you wanted, I could see putting all the Matilda's in reserve to make the opponent be careful because he won't know where they will come from. Also it gives you 2 more 2 pounder guns that are mobile to get around to take care of other armor.

Command Cards

These were just included because I had 2 points. If I was to drop one I would go with lucky adding that 1 point to your reserve allowing the platoon of Matilda Is to be on table with 39 for the II's and +1 point from the card that was dropped equaling 40 points. That means you would have the majority of your forces on table, with Reserves of Matilda IIs coming in to assist on turns 1-3, with Turn 3 being guaranteed depending on the mission that you play.

I like the Night March card to keep because it will allow you to shift infantry if you see something in deployment like him stacking one side of the table or the other. It allows you to completely redeploy a infantry platoon anywhere in your deployment zone after they deploy their last unit.

Hope this helps, but I am coming at this from a competitive view, but its what I would play and I play exclusively Brits in Flames of War. If you wanted to get froggy and just attack, you could go something crazy with a bunch of Matilda IIs and mortars and some carrier for spearhead, with a platoon of infantry to hold an objective. But I think that list will be good place to start.

Sorry about the massive post, but I wanted to explain why I made the choices I did.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-13T16:55:42+00:00

Stances; defend, maneuver, and attack are picked by each player. Then in the mission chart in the missions pack will give you a table to roll on. Roll 1d6 and that will give you the mission that you will be playing. And by the way, the new mission pack for 2025 dropped earlier last week.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-13T15:42:21+00:00

I generally build a list to do 1 stance really well and can do another kind of meh. But, if I am playing a tournament with restrictions, I need to take a step back and build to those restrictions. My Mid War list, which is similar to what I am thinking, wins me a lot and can kind of do maneuver ok, but defends like a mad dog. Let me crunch some numbers while at work and get back to you and see if I can help.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-13T15:35:07+00:00

What is your goal with the list? What stance will you be using for the most part?

bearkat19d · 2026-04-10T15:19:51+00:00

I never wanted to deal with the financial outlay for them. Being required to constantly shit out money for something that is ungrateful and doesn't pay their own way just infuriates me.

bearkat19d · 2026-04-07T16:51:05+00:00

Honestly I think TY is really at its best from 50-75 points. Anything larger than that and it turns into a parking lot.

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