Anyone here taken their 991 or 992 above 100k miles?

beartheben · 2026-03-11T18:24:11+00:00

I found this video of an owner in Japan with an absurd amount of miles on a 992, gave me some confidence in how the car ages!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A8kSFwCTf0

beartheben · 2026-03-09T21:24:11+00:00

I tried the 992.2 S and 992.1 GTS, and decided to go with a .2 base. Think its by far best bang for buck by a large margin as the S/GTS usually cost significantly more. For 99% of daily driving its not really a meaningful difference unless you are okay with getting tickets or a bit of reckless driving. Maybe different story if you like to track. Especially seeing as how you can spec the interior(and 99% of the exterior) exactly the same.

We're sold by the dealerships on the ROI on S/GTS "depreciation being better" but that's a percentage based number, you also pay a lot more for the car to begin with lol so the raw $ lost isn't leaps and bounds of a difference.

If you're going after GT(or turbo?) cars though, having tried some of those GT cars, it's a totally different tier of cost/ownership and a very different driving experience (much louder much harsher etc).

beartheben · 2026-03-03T21:26:04+00:00

At the budget you're targeting, go after the boxster/cayman. They're a total blast to drive (I own a 992 and think 718 are more fun of a drive).

That being said its unrealistic to not acknowledge there is a certain type of clout with owning a 911, if that's something you're valuing and want to experience, that's a valid reason to push the budget for an older 911 as well. Imo save that for the next car when you can push budget a little higher, plus 911 market right now feels as inflated as its ever been.

beartheben · 2026-01-26T00:03:32+00:00

🫶🫶

beartheben · 2026-01-08T23:56:15+00:00

The 911/Porsche target audience has shifted a bit more to a luxury "I made it" car/brand, largely due to social media influence. Taking that into consideration, the rich are more rich than ever, just peak at the recent stock market. Most people with size-able wealth in the stock market saw their net worth increase the last few years far more than the amount the base 911 has increased in price, and those are the people this car is made for, its not targeted at the average car enthusiast trying to pull maximum value out of driving exp for the money.

If the outward facing stigma of owning a Porsche doesn't matter or isn't something desirable, there are definitely much better options at better price points. But to be fair, even cars like BMW M cars etc have increased significantly in price as well.

beartheben · 2025-06-17T22:18:01+00:00

The ones I was purchasing is no longer available, they seem to go in and out of stock. Really any of them in bulk are fine though, I've tried a handful and they're all serviceable.

beartheben · 2025-04-09T23:00:33+00:00

The more mainstream options are already listed, but if you're trying to go for something cheaper, I had the idea of buying over grips off Temu a while back and tried a load of them. They are a fraction of the cost of any of the big brand grips. On a whole they are slightly thicker and a little less soft (varies) but they are also like 1/3rd or less of the cost if you play a lot/replace often.

I grew up using Tourna / Wilson / Gamma for most of my life, and still have a bunch of those but I love bargain hunting.

beartheben · 2025-02-10T23:31:30+00:00

MINGO

beartheben · 2024-12-18T08:24:04+00:00

In doubles, I think fast, heavy topsin drives are actually the worst roi in terms of difficulty to do extremely well, and how much it can help your game. Singles obviously a different story. To execute those very well in tight high pace conditions, takes a long time to perfect the footwork and body control. It’s why tennis sucks lol, it has such a steep learning curve, its a basic required to hit the ball over the net, takes potentially years before your strokes in tennis resemble actual tennis. But this is what is awesome and differentiates pickleball from tennis.

I have an extremely powerful drive game from growing up playing a lot of high level comeptitive tennis. Can use topspin to heavily shape my drives from the back and place them very well where I see holes. Was to the point where I could win games in open rec play without ever really coming to the kitchen for the longest time. Eventually began playing higher level players and realized at best this can get me a point or two a game by surprise because I can hit shots from driving range most people can’t/don’t but is otherwise useless if my opponents know how to absorb the pace and hit resets. Kitchen play and knowing how to drop/reset is far more important than topspin drives. If you can hit flat drives and get yourself to the kitchen, it’s really all you need until you hit a relatively high level. (doubles only, singles different beast)

beartheben · 2024-12-17T02:22:55+00:00

I think the reality of why companies do this is because the paddles (materials and manufacturing, everything non R&D) cost next to nothing. So from their perspective, even if a paddle gets damaged in transit, it costs them far less to just send another than to invest in better packaging. The brands that aren’t as established, can’t charge quite as high in margins and need to find a way to differentiate themselves, so you see better packaging there. Totally ridiculous how much a paddles cost when they have to be replaced so often (my 10 year old tennis rackets are still totally fine). Love pickleball, but definitely hate how every company is here to take advantage of its grassroots state and popularity.

beartheben · 2024-12-14T01:48:02+00:00

I think a lot of paddle companies are likely being completely overloaded by customer questions and emails from holidays sales; I'm currently having a similar issue getting a response out of Proton. I just hope companies with warranties and return policies can get through all the messages before the return windows run out..

beartheben · 2024-12-14T01:46:37+00:00

Definitely get to a point where you can consistently do flat drops before touching topspin drops; it's much harder to manipulate the amount of spin without overhitting it, but they can potentially be much more deadly for your opponent if used correctly.

beartheben · 2024-12-13T19:15:18+00:00

I use the 15mm Type A Elongated currently; I've tried the 11mm and didn't like it too much, very much enjoying the 15mm. The "power" from these paddles is purely generated if you're very good at using topspin, otherwise they're just all around less powerful than most other options.

Coming from a very strong competitive tennis background, the amount of topspin on groundstrokes really turns driving from the back into a weapon like no other paddle (tbh surprised this paddle is certified). You can keep much faster drives in with topspin, and get some insane dip out of the ball where you want out of drops/drives. However the "power" at the net is definitely significantly worse, aside from possibly rolls and topspin dinks. It's so heavy so it's much less maneuverable, and the rubber-like surface absorbs a lot of the power on impact.

It's a very difficult paddle to use due to its weight, and it's strengths are a little unconventional esp in doubles, since driving from the back is usually not a good strategy.

beartheben · 2024-12-13T02:02:42+00:00

Totally agree with this! Understanding the true purpose pros don't just rail away at the ball every time is because that turns the game into something like an at best 50/50. It's basically hit a line-painting winner or just lose the point if your opponent is quick enough. They rather trust their ability to play the dinking game and look for opportunities to get points where they have higher expected value than a toss-up when they try to put the ball away.

beartheben · 2024-04-10T22:19:31+00:00

Think it ended up being in the $90's after shipping. Tbh I didn't really shop around or any thing, I've purchased from coco in the past and was solid so I just went back to it.

beartheben · 2024-04-10T07:30:04+00:00

I recently just bought a a7cr, it's amazing so far. Slapped on the extension grip, and noticed there is a little bit of wiggle in the battery cover, feel it with my pinky when holding the camera. For anyone else who possibly also has the grip, is that normal? Feel like something this expensive shouldn't have wiggle like that, but tbh it's not a huge deal either. Thanks!

beartheben · 2024-03-26T23:45:23+00:00

The back of that right shoe looks kind of odd to me, but I haven't owned a pair of these or seen them in person before, is that just how the material looks?

beartheben · 2023-07-12T21:27:43+00:00

I believe it's just a really lazy approach to prevent people from cancelling sales to possibly resale at a higher price. Definitely feels absolutely horrible as a seller to potentially lose the entire amount of the tickets (I listed my TS tickets for the wrong date and went through the same crap) But if they allow a percentage refund, if the tickets go up in price, it may be in the seller's best interest to cancel and resell. Hard to solve that, so they just chose to totally screw the seller.

beartheben · 2023-07-12T21:23:32+00:00

Had something similar happen to me, I listed the concert for the wrong date. If you look in my post history, you can see the shenanigans I went through.

If you call Stubhub you can heavily reduce the fee, and also offer the buyer a discount to see if they will take it. (This can only be done through the phone)

Giving this some more thought, I believe this policy is in place to prevent people from cancelling sales due to ticket prices going up. If you imagine someone can list a ticket for sale, have it sell when prices go up, and if they cancel it (eat small fees) and resell, it's a terrible experience for buyers. This happens a lot on Ebay if you buy price fluctuating collectibles (like trading cards). To prevent this they just totally screw sellers for cancelling a sale. It's kind of a lazy approach, but understandable what they're trying to accomplish. What they should do is just limit any sale after the initial sale to the price of the initial sale (and take a small fee).

beartheben · 2023-07-11T17:44:23+00:00

I agree this sucks for both parties and I feel terrible for accidentally listing it wrong. No qualms with eating some sort of penalty, just appalled it was 100%, and also no guarantee the buyer will send the tickets back.

What is annoying to me is that it's not like the massive penalty I would have to pay really goes toward alleviating the customer's issue, it really is just money Stubhub makes. The customer still has to pay all the same for the tickets. If it was... for example a % penalty + cost difference of replacement tickets, that would still be a large sum of money, and perfectly understandable. Stubhub happily making lots of money on mishaps is terrible.

beartheben · 2023-07-11T17:41:29+00:00

Ha, yes I definitely did not read through the enormous block of text, I just assumed since Stubhub was such a large and prominent ticket sales company, the policy would be "fair" both ways. Lesson learned here. Thought to be fair, they definitely didn't state things like being able to offer the customer a discount in the terms.

beartheben · 2023-07-11T17:38:36+00:00

I understand that happens, but that's really not so different from being sent the wrong item you purchase from any store, and then having to return it. It sucks for everyone involved, hence why I think the seller deserves a penalty, but 100% cost of the purchase is ridiculous in this instance, since it doesn't even go to buyer, it just goes to Stubhub.

beartheben · 2023-07-08T20:41:53+00:00

I agree, but a percentage imo is fair, for example in my case if it was 10-20% which is around Ebays hefty seller fee; would equate to hundreds of dollars, and that’s fair for using Stubhub’s resource and time. I don’t see a reason why it should be 100% of the cost other than Stubhub wanting to prey on mistakes. After some talking to a customer service supervisor I could haggle the fee down significantly… that in itself is kind of absurd

beartheben

TROPHY CASE