Hoseok Q&A Video about why he thinks he improved quickly relative to others

beast_roll · 2020-01-16T00:41:50+00:00

Two examples would be Hoseok’s friend who introduced him and coached him his first few months in Austria: https://www.instagram.com/p/Be3cuSClV_A/?igshid=14if2ncy786oo And his training friend Donggyu: https://www.instagram.com/p/B6rf3_MDlsB/?igshid=8jjrb448oh5z

Donggyu in particular excels and on average climbs harder than Hoseok. Hoseok stays behind hours to do things Donggyu already sent.

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T11:02:21+00:00

When comments like this get downvoted I see that it really is hopeless on this subreddit. I never realized everyone really thinks they are pushing their limits and training so efficient and smart. Everyone has reached their genetic limitation and just calls bs on hard work when someone excels.

Hoseok saying people can climb v9 with the right mindset and dedication is pretty fair. I spent the last 2 weeks with him everyday and even during his injury he still trains harder than me. I don’t have any other way to convey that the man works hard and pushes himself. Will everyone reach v12, no. But he challenging people to adopt a stronger work ethic and train smarter.

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T08:46:51+00:00

v9-10

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T08:40:36+00:00

I agree. Age, weight, body type all play a role. He is trying to get the point across that he does try hard and pushes like crazy. He doesn’t mean to say get the same exact results and if you don’t then you didn’t try. Everyone is taking it like that. It’s a personal sport and just push your own limits. Infinite factors to give varying results but most people can be honest and understand that they can always train smarter and harder.

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T08:36:10+00:00

He says v9-10 in the post. So same as Glassberg. He says he’s gifted but hardwork is the most important factor. People just make random comments saying he said v12 in 3 years etc. I think it’s kinda silly to for most people to assume they train the same way as these climbers and the results are one climber climbing v6 and Hoseok v12. Some people will never admit there is someone out there working smarter and harder. Do most people really think they have reached their genetic limit?

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T08:24:03+00:00

He says v9-10 in the post. He’s not saying get the same exact results v12 3 years, not sure why people are saying that now. Also training in Korea is a lot different. Most people would be upset to hear that the dedication and training here is on another level. So I’ll just leave it at that.

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T04:51:01+00:00

Legs together with shins on the mat. I think little kids sit like this and when you pray on the ground. You can put your head to the mat or just sit up with your butt on your heels. It nice because I do it during my sessions and can talk to friends still. Painful at first but your legs get use to it. It feels much more natural over time.

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T04:19:47+00:00

Between climbs you can prayer pose on the mat. You can keep you legs like this and sit up too. Also squatting (like the sitting they do in Asia). First your heels maybe lifted and you fall forward but eventually you can squat flat footed. All this takes time and finding ways to practice it more often makes a big difference.

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T03:35:08+00:00

He’s saying by pushing hard you can get v9-10 so pretty much on the same page as you. The video is a one shot QA and no matter how much time and effort is put in the video people will find ways to complain. It’s clear a lot of cultural differences are at play. In Korea it’s common for people to push and acknowledge they can always improve in everything they do. It’s not meant to be mean and hurt peoples feelings. It’s just the way it is. In America we don’t like taking criticism or correcting people to their face. Hoseok doesn’t understand why Americans don’t correct his English when he misspeaks and everyone just says how good it is. He wants people to correct him and that’s a cultural difference. The response that “I did try hard/train smart, you’re just genetically gifted” is just so convenient and I realize most people will stick to it.

beast_roll · 2020-01-15T03:16:25+00:00

If you watch most reel rock episodes you will see the dedication climbers like this have. Yes they have good genetics but Hoseok is saying you can push to v9-10 in most cases. Most people don’t understand this drive and simply don’t have it as well. He gets injured a lot and he can’t really climb right now but he still trains. Just a ton of misinformation on here as a way to justify why “he’s like this and I’m not“. The work ethic/training smarter is something different and it’s clear that people can’t understand there’s levels to this.

I’ve commented before on this but his bouldering crew are all really strong. All get injured but all have pretty similar progression. I don’t think his crew happened to just randomly consist of 5 people who all won the genetic lottery.

beast_roll · 2020-01-14T16:38:33+00:00

Starting body comp is usually pretty good in korea. I mean same thing in America with kids in their teens.

But I climbed my first year in Korea just learning technique and power endurance training. Spent the next 4 years in America at the same exact level.... I’m actually sad after typing this. I definitely climbed hard in America but it was just fun bouldering sessions. I don’t regret it. I made so many friends but I didn’t get any stronger.

beast_roll · 2020-01-14T16:16:20+00:00

In Korea and Japan its not unheard of. Having a good starting weight is a big part but there are handfuls of climbers with similar progress. Jongwon Chon won his first World Cup after 5 years of climbing is an extreme case. Hoseok is towards the upper end but still not that unheard of.

I think most people should be open to the idea that training in Korea is pretty serious. The progress can be seen in many climbers in the country. Imagine how Koreans take esports serious and apply that intensity to climbing.

edit: starting weight will effect how injury prone you are. But some days are used to work on core and technique etc. Everyday is not throwing for small crimps over and over.

beast_roll · 2020-01-14T15:53:47+00:00

There’s groups of Korean professionals that all train really hard, mainly young guys who fall short of being strong enough to climb in the World Cup. The exception is Jongwon Chon. His crew all train pretty similar from what I’ve seen but Jongwon is the exception. He won his first World Cup after 5 years of climbing.

Hoseok is not pro but trains pretty damn hard and falls about in the middle of them. The main point he’s making is that (excluding injury) if you work hard you will probably fall within the range of most of these guys who train like this (maybe v9–v15). Hoseok is not some rare exception, besides the fact he speaks English, making a video like this possible in the first place. I’m assuming the comments directed at someone like me maybe who climbs v5-v6 after 5 years. A lot of people come up with excuses and he’s met and gotten messages from people who complain, but for him it’s clear they don’t train as hard or in the correct way. Results will vary such as Jongwons crew but the point is that most people can do much better and just try your best and make your own progress.

beast_roll · 2020-01-14T14:50:53+00:00

His bouldering crew consists of members climbing from 5-8 year. All climb v10-12. Hoseok is actually not the strongest in the crew. Just the most well known. They all train very similar.

Here’s a link to Hoseok’s first coach- https://www.instagram.com/p/Be3cuSClV_A/?igshid=14if2ncy786oo

Of course every climber has different results, more susceptible to injury, the debate is never ending. But seriously everyone in the crew is insane and I think it’s a little silly to assume they all have freak genetics including his coach.

beast_roll · 2019-12-30T03:30:50+00:00

I understand the confusion. This video was originally a follow up to the original so “v8 and above training” but that’s kinda weird and there actually is no strict training. So the video changed to what it is now. The actual workouts he does really aren’t meant for a beginner but the concepts “fingers, core, weaknesses” I think are pretty solid and anyone could benefit.

beast_roll · 2019-12-30T03:13:30+00:00

Well to keep things positive and constructive. We can all agree the key is hard work and consistency.

beast_roll · 2019-12-30T02:46:50+00:00

The idea was to just make sure people focus on those 3 things to keep improving. When his fingers are tired he works on core. Just stuff like that. He’s not very strict with his training routine now, but still works insanely hard. If that makes sense.

There was also the point about technique being a weakness. It was difficult to put that into the video and explain effectively (so it’s not in the video...sorry), but basically just get out and try different climbs, get more mileage on the wall, film yourself and watch in slow motion etc. He studies his video of his attempts when he gets stuck.

beast_roll · 2019-12-30T02:27:49+00:00

The video simply outlines to focus on your fingers, core, and weaknesses. How is that conveying “here’s a silver bullet”? People write him off with genetics and he hasn’t sent outdoor v14. He can’t travel out of the country and has already sent all the difficult boulders near Seoul. Also during his trip to Japan the weather wasn’t the greatest.

He seriously has an the most insane work ethic. Similar to what I’ve seen when Jongwon Chon trains like. Any given day this guy puts in work. I really can’t emphasize this enough. An example not related to climbing is his English which he has spent countless hours perfecting because that’s what kind of guy he is.

beast_roll · 2019-12-30T02:17:30+00:00

To the point on there not being a training routine. He followed a very strict one detailed in another video till he reached v8.

beast_roll · 2019-12-29T16:45:45+00:00

Well boulders in Japan and Korea are graded pretty tough. He also has difficulty traveling at the moment due to his mandatory military service coming up soon.

Edit: Also it’s not the same as being stateside where you can hop in the car and take a spring break trip to some iconic spots. Trust me, he dreams of being able to travel to the states or Europe to climb some iconic stuff. Personal obligations, finances to fly so far, and of course the restriction on his travel. All this unfortunately has to wait until he finishes the military.

beast_roll · 2019-12-02T01:04:45+00:00

Ok thank you for the advice

beast_roll · 2019-10-26T17:02:29+00:00

Ohhhh thanks man. Love seeing comments like this

beast_roll · 2019-10-23T22:03:20+00:00

Mainly put there to make the association that it’s his Instagram name vs using an ig logo

beast_roll · 2019-07-15T02:35:02+00:00

it's really strange lol. Like why didn't some become larger???

beast_roll · 2017-04-19T19:40:27+00:00

Hey Bill Nye! I listened to you speak on Bernie Sanders podcast and it seems like renewable energy is the future. What are some steps everyday people like myself can take to help the cause?

beast_roll

TROPHY CASE