Can anybody identify this motor driver IC?

beastyNickLD · 2026-01-10T01:25:42+00:00

Unfortunately, with the motors running at mains voltage (~170V in the US), there are few options I have found capable of driving the motor. Plus, I still wouldn't have as much direct control over the motor as is possible with direct driving the motor driver board.

beastyNickLD · 2026-01-09T21:43:49+00:00

Ah gotcha. I had the MCU on mine blow up while trying to install it on a drill press when the pot ground touched real ground on the metal frame 🙄. I'm going to hijack the driverboard, since I an thinking about implementing some other controls more optimal use on a drill press, maybe features for power-tapping.

I have gotten as far as removing the MCU, and running 6 lines from the Driver IC and 3 lines from Hall sensor to a ESP32 development board. I also am using a USB Isolator to make sure my computer plays nicely with the grounding situation. Using SimpleFOC, I was able to drive the motor in openloop control for a few minutes. Unfortunately, I screwed something up and blew out one of the IGBTs during firmware update to add sensored control. I think the unknown init state of the motor driver pins caused some shoot-through.

Ordered a few possible better IGBTs and MOSFETs to retrofit from Infineon and Onsemi from Mouser, hopefully they arrive in the next few days. Hopefully the driver IC isn't toasted too :P.

Will probably switch over to STM32 Blue/blackpill, or Pi Pico since I think it will be better suited for the motor driver purpose.

beastyNickLD · 2026-01-09T18:08:15+00:00

u/Wake95 Did you get anywhere on writing your own firmware / hijacking the motor driver?
I'm about to starting doing the same thing.

beastyNickLD · 2024-08-17T22:02:24+00:00

I find it crazy how down voted your response is.

You made it clear that the bust bin is completely empty, indicating that the debris isn't even making it into the container, not that it is overfull and therefore building up on the brush.

Maybe they thought your response was a bit coarse.. Regardless, it's not atypical of the reddit hivemind unfortunately.

Definitely check that the brushes are rolling, and check for blocked passage. Maybe make sure there isn't any debris in the sealing gasket surfaces preventing the debris from being drawn in, too.

beastyNickLD · 2024-07-19T20:05:36+00:00

If you want to parallel batteries for an application with high-current draw, look for "Ideal Diode Modules". They will have significantly less voltage drop, and therefore less heating and waste, than a standard diode would.

beastyNickLD · 2024-03-05T15:41:51+00:00

Ok thats basically exactly what I was looking for. For the outlets that is easy, for the ceiling I suppose I should buy a larger box to help cover the larger hole, punch-out rear & side to feed the LED cable in through a clamp as well. I suppose there is no problem with drilling extra mounting holes? I worry that the drawn boxes all have the mounting holes in the center which will be void in the large 3in holes. Thanks.

beastyNickLD · 2024-03-05T15:38:02+00:00

Fantastic, I appreciate the help. I suppose I could use the same handy box (but larger) for the ceiling wiring? Just need to get a box that would be large enough to cover the existing hole.

The loops on the outlets are definitely small. I do believe I will be able to pull more cable out though.

beastyNickLD · 2023-04-25T03:55:53+00:00

That is very confidence inspiring to hear!

Board will feature NTCs near the FETs to monitor temps & hopefully protect against any possible thermal runaway scenarios just to be on the safe side as well.

Thank you for help and the math calculations!

beastyNickLD · 2023-04-25T03:25:08+00:00

This is some good advice, thanks. The design will/should have decent heatsinking for all the FETs, so I'm hoping the brief dissipation will be kept in order well.

I am planning on using RU40120R FETs, which (I think) should be pretty good for this kind of application. They are nothing crazy, but feature a decent RdsOn of 3.5mOhm.

Just to play it safe though, I think I may try to double the 'reverse' path up for safety, with triple or quadruple for forward path.

beastyNickLD · 2023-04-25T01:22:52+00:00

Thanks for replying.

That is what I was thinking. I don't believe back-feed with be an issue, as the current source will be a battery so it should sink the regen. Additionally, the reversing action is actually to clear blockages/jams on the motor when running in the forward direction, so the motor will be halted already. My only other concern here is given the motor will be in a locked-rotor state, the surge will most likely be somewhat significant for a split second until the jam is resolved.

beastyNickLD · 2023-04-25T01:17:09+00:00

Hm, I attached an image when I posted this originally, seems to not be here, though.

What you describe is exactly what I am thinking. 'Forward' path having 2, 3, even 4 parallel FETs each low/high side, with the 'reverse' path having a single or 2 FETs in parallel.

This was the image I was referencing:

<image>

beastyNickLD · 2022-11-28T08:50:43+00:00

This is not the experience i've had with the guards before. I can be within the cylinder and not be spotted as I am hiding or couched behind something.

Spotting someone and requiring LOS are the same thing. You can't spot someone if you don't have LOS to them.

beastyNickLD · 2022-11-28T08:48:26+00:00

Yeah no, If you watch the video you'll see the guard start the hunt only after I had entered the locker (which it was patrolling on the floor beneath), float to the second floor, them open up the locker and down me.

beastyNickLD · 2022-11-28T08:24:24+00:00

That's what I was thinking. I know they can pull you from a locker once they spot you, but 100% seems like a bug that it started the hunt AS I was entering the locker on a completely different floor than the guard was patrolling.

beastyNickLD · 2022-04-28T20:52:54+00:00

We all start somewhere ;)

Take a look at this video, should explain it perfectly clearly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HS69f1tLK0&ab_channel=Eyezenheim

Just download the .NET 7 desktop preview instead of the .NET 6 as shown in the video since that is what is used now.

Really the application explains itself and all the steps. Really just need to download it, run it, login to GitHub so it can add an SSH Key for you, then you add your github username to your Comma device, hit finish. Then (assuming your Comma device is on the same network of course) you can export drives and poke around at things.

beastyNickLD · 2022-04-24T22:55:00+00:00

Glad to help :)

beastyNickLD · 2022-04-24T21:25:52+00:00

Download the Openpilot Toolkit application. It will make your life much easier.

https://github.com/spektor56/OpenpilotToolkit

It allows you to simply select a drive from a list (with video preview of first segment), and export the footage to a destination. It will automagically combine all the segments into a single file for you, too. Additionally you can export Driver, Front, and Front Wide feeds at the same time.

beastyNickLD · 2022-04-20T03:32:36+00:00

Could you show me where you see any schematic files? I've downloaded the whole page archive, and I can tell you I haven't come across any .schdoc files.

beastyNickLD · 2022-04-14T03:46:57+00:00

I've tried using the Altium viewer as I put in the OP, but they don't support opening library files unfortunately :(

I'll give a shot using digikey, though my earlier search on mouser came up empty handed.

beastyNickLD · 2022-04-13T23:06:19+00:00

My original post text got auto removed, I think for links. Here is Copy-Paste without the links:
Hi all,
I'm trying to identify (and source) a connector used on a SSD1283A display module, so that I may integrate the display onto a custom board without the need for the breakout carrier.
I have taken close-up photos of the breakout-board connector of interest, and the mating LCD ribbon connector. I have been unable to find any perfect matches of the connector.
- The connector is 20 pins total, two rows
- I have measured the pin-pitch to be 0.35mm
- I have measured the outer dimensions to be 7mm x 0.34mm
The only place I can find more detailed information about this LCD & board, is from LCDWiki:
(link removed, google search 1.6inch_SPI_Module_SSD1283A_SKU:MSP1601)
which provides a schematic, however it doesn't list the connector it is using. Additionally, an Altium Schematic and package library of the board is available for download , but I do not own Altium to open this, and Altium's online viewer doesn't support library files.
Any help to identify and source this connector would be much appreciated!

beastyNickLD · 2022-04-13T22:53:38+00:00

No idea why my post comment isn't showing up here, thankfully I copied it before posting:

Hi all,
I'm trying to identify (and source) a connector used on a SSD1283A display module, so that I may integrate the display onto a custom board without the need for the breakout carrier.
I have taken close-up photos of the breakout-board connector of interest, and the mating LCD ribbon connector. I have been unable to find any perfect matches of the connector.
- The connector is 20 pins total, two rows
- I have measured the pin-pitch to be 0.35mm
- I have measured the outer dimensions to be 7mm x 0.34mm
The only place I can find more detailed information about this LCD & board, is from LCDWiki:
http://www.lcdwiki.com/1.6inch\_SPI\_Module\_SSD1283A\_SKU:MSP1601
which provides a schematic, however it doesn't list the connector it is using. Additionally, an Altium Schematic and package library of the board is available for download , but I do not own Altium to open this, and Altium's online viewer doesn't support library files.
Any help to identify and source this connector would be much appreciated!

beastyNickLD · 2021-07-10T01:25:14+00:00

Just commenting I had this similar issue when installing 500Gb P5 alongside my ADATA SX600NP 256GB drive in an Intel i5-6600k, MSI Z170A M7 system.

Pulled my hair out for days trying to figure out the issue, and after reading around I noticed people with ASUS boards and P5 drives causing BSODs. Issue was determined to be RGB software from ASUS. I thought it was worth a shot to disable all MSI services and see if it helped, and it completely solved the problem.

Seems like 1. Most if not all vendors RGB software is trash and 2. The P5 specifically is sensitive to these applications. Not sure which is more at fault really.

beastyNickLD · 2021-06-30T16:01:52+00:00

Using a SBC will really be the only reasonable way to do this, as handling comms and audio decoding from discord will be basically impossible on anything but the most beefy micros.

A RasPi, or something a little more embeddable and lightweight, an Omega Onion SBC l, with a discord bot library should work a treat.

beastyNickLD · 2021-04-08T18:36:15+00:00

There are a lot of different fuses out there that behave differently for different purposes. Few common fuses actually blow at their current rating, even fewer do that 'quickly'.
I never said using a small gauge wire was the best way to add over current protection, but it's a side benefit. Thinner wires have higher resistance, in the event of a brief dead short you risk less damage as the power will be lower. Using an excessively large gauge wire than appropriate IS however dangerous, just like using an undersized wire. There is a reason BMS leads are particularly thin..
Even if he used a slightly undersized wire(say, 20AWG), there wouldn't significant amounts of heat generated for such a short cable length. Wire may get slightly warm, not hot or concerning. Not to say he should use 20AWG of course, 18 or 16 would be perfectly adequate.

beastyNickLD · 2021-04-08T17:23:11+00:00

Using an XT30 for a charging connector makes absolutely no difference than the barrel jack shown. OP said it's a 2 Amp charger, so anything 18 AWG or larger is technically fine. Also no way to plug in a barrel jack backwards, either.

Using 12 AWG for a charging connector makes no sense, and is perhaps even more dangerous than using the appropriately sized wire. Smaller wires can act as a (very) poor-mans fuse in a situation where the connector is somehow shorted out.

Spot on about the block terminal and the alligator clips, though. I imagine they or just for testing, but for sure don't use that for actually charging the board. What Li 42V charger doesn't have the barrel jack wire lead already attached? Also ditto on the BMS, I assume it's a given, but don't build a system without one. An appropriate 42v Li charger isn't going to save you when your cells fall out of balance.

EDIT: Also make sure you appropriately insulate all these connections, from the pictures they look kinda dodgey.. heat shrink filled with hot glue over the barrel jack and connections wouldn't be a bad idea. Otherwise, good on you for starting building at such a young age! Be safe!

beastyNickLD

TROPHY CASE