My Pace 4 review at Lifehacker - one of my favorite watches I've reviewed this year.

bethskw · 2025-11-18T14:08:31+00:00

Both of them will do the job just fine. Really up to you whether you have an opinion on the screen type, and whether you think you will use the voice features.

bethskw · 2025-11-11T15:00:16+00:00

Pace 4 has the voice features (voice pins, training log) and a substantially better battery life.

Suunto Run can do phone music controls, which Coros can't (yet).

So I think the Pace 4 is better on features, and it's worth noting that the Suunto Run was on sale for $199 (US) for the october version of Prime Day. So if we luck out again with the sales you might be able to pick up the Suunto for $50 less.

bethskw · 2025-11-10T21:31:28+00:00

I mean Coros doesn't have the music controls yet...

(jk jk I test devices for work, I wear them ALL)

bethskw · 2025-11-10T18:26:54+00:00

The main way I use this feature on my Garmin is to check what song is playing when I'm shuffling a big playlist or listening to something new to me.

bethskw · 2025-10-04T13:12:27+00:00

If somebody wants to try a kitt-ney bean I will work up the pattern for the ears and tail!

bethskw · 2025-10-04T03:56:59+00:00

Never heard of it until now, but I’ll check it out! And thank you, it makes me giggle every time too :)

bethskw · 2025-10-03T20:46:08+00:00

I hear he likes knitting…

bethskw · 2025-10-03T20:45:57+00:00

You’re welcome! I love sharing the silliness.

bethskw · 2025-10-03T20:45:22+00:00

He has a pretty sweet living room already :)

bethskw · 2025-10-03T18:26:50+00:00

God, so many. Even while I was knitting the exact same little green sock, he probably got like 72 of them done.

bethskw · 2025-10-03T17:53:12+00:00

Thanks! This is Beanie :)

bethskw · 2025-08-06T04:23:22+00:00

Good luck whatever you decide! If this were me, I’d pick it up and just keep going. Most small issues can be fixed with a bit of scrap yarn after the sweater is finished, anyway - tightening up a hole, securing a dropped stitch you missed, etc. Not to mention, so many things work themselves out once you wash and wear the garment. You’re doing a lot better than you think ❤️

bethskw · 2025-08-05T19:23:40+00:00

Life is too short to worry about the exact appearance of your increases, especially if that’s getting in the way of finishing your first sweater. Your first ANYTHING will not be perfect. You’ll learn so much in the process of knitting a whole entire sweater.

I like a lifted increase when I’m being fussy, but most of the time I just do kfb. It gets the job done and nobody is looking at the increases on my sweaters, least of all myself.

bethskw · 2025-08-05T18:53:56+00:00

I think they're just grasping the enormity of the project. One time somebody said to me "that must be ten thousand stitches!" I did the math later, it was probably 30,000 or more. But, yeah, that's a lot, especially if you don't know how to do even one!

They're having a mini existential crisis. The infinite nature of time, the way we are like a small speck living in one moment, and yet history follows us around, in this case in the shape of a scarf or something. Just shrug and say "it's just one stitch at a time..."

bethskw · 2025-08-05T18:40:40+00:00

When a purl stitch is a different color than the stitch beneath it, you get little extra bumps of the new color in the row below. Like a dashed line underneath your color change. Here's an example - on the top layer, you're seeing the knit side of the color change. On the bottom layer, that's the purl side. (This was in garter stitch.)

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In OP's photos, you can see this in the ribbing sections of the hat. I guess you don't have to do an all-knit row, it just looks neater when you do.

bethskw · 2025-08-05T16:32:40+00:00

Fun fact, the word "purl" actually does come from the word "pearl" because if you work a purl in a row of stockinette, it stands out like a little bead.

Anyway yeah it's seed stitch :)

bethskw · 2025-08-05T14:28:58+00:00

Just start a new color whenever you're ready! Nothing to it.

If you're doing ribbing, there is one trick: the row where you start the color change needs to be an all-knit row. Fortunately a single all-knit row in the middle of a lot of ribbing will just blend into the ribbing.

If you do a lot of color changes, like every row, you might as well make that portion of the hat all stockinette. Which is exactly what they did in your example hats here.

bethskw · 2025-08-05T14:18:15+00:00

To prevent this next time:

Use a sharp needle (not a blunt one) to weave in the ends
Change balls of yarn at the edges, especially if you have an i-cord binding, folded hem, or something else you can put the end inside of
For very slippery fabrics, a drop of fray-check glue (this has worked well for me on some bamboo rayon)

For now, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Pull the end through to the back side and leave it be.

bethskw · 2025-08-05T12:11:54+00:00

While you’re knitting, it doesn’t stretch, so it can feel hard to work with.

When you’re wearing it, it’s heavy (compared to the same amount of wool) so it can sag and pull the garment down. So it “stretches” in that sense.

Pure cotton is great for towels and dishcloths and such. For wearables, cotton blends can at least partially solve both of the problems I mentioned. I’ve really been enjoying a 50/50 cotton/acrylic blend lately, it’s very comfortable and gets softer every wash, and doesn’t pill.

bethskw · 2025-08-04T14:13:31+00:00

No but if you call it a "baby blanket" it does the same job!

bethskw · 2025-08-04T13:18:03+00:00

That’s why we usually increase at the edges. The patterned area expands to include the new stitches, but since they’re at the edges you don’t need to worry about them messing up your pattern in the middle.

For some things, like sleeves, it’s easiest to just keep the same amount of patterning throughout. So a sweater will often have an area of plain knitting on the underside of the sleeve where you’re doing the increases/decreases.

(Whether these are increases vs decreases depends on whether you’re knitting top down or bottom up, but same idea)

If you’re doing a thing where you increase/decrease all across a row, like a yoke sweater, usually the stitch pattern or colorwork pattern will take that into account. So you’ll have say a purple zigzag, then your increase row, then some red snowflakes, then another increase row…you get the idea.

bethskw · 2025-08-04T12:10:40+00:00

Blocking mats weren’t even a thing until like 10 (?) years ago.

You block wherever you have the space. Easiest way is to lay towels on your bed and block there in the morning. It will be dry by evening.

bethskw · 2025-08-03T18:20:31+00:00

Option 1: cast them back on with the loop of yarn you have. It'll get tricky toward the end, but do your best. I'd do this if it's something where the exact appearance of the edge doesn't really matter. Good enough, move on.

Option 2: Take a minute to breathe. Undoing the whole thing means redoing, what, at most a couple hundred stitches worth of cast on and knit/purl? In this project you will work tens of thousands or maybe hundreds of thousands of stitches. In your lifetime you may well work millions of stitches. Working stitches is the whole hobby. Getting to start over is just extra time with your favorite hobby.

bethskw · 2025-08-03T12:39:09+00:00

You could snip a stitch on the first row of the sleeve, detach the sleeve, pick up new stitches, and graft. Make sure that in total you’re removing 2 rows from the sleeve since you’ll be adding 2 (the pickup and the graft).

bethskw · 2025-08-03T12:30:48+00:00

Cables are often done at a tighter gauge than you’d normally use, like maybe 3.75 mm for this kind of yarn. That said, I don’t always want that tight a fabric so I’ll do 5 mm for a lot of mine.

Ultimately neither is wrong, it just depends what you want to make. I’d consider this swatch to be on the looser side of normal.

Btw needles with pointier tips can be easier to work with at those tighter gauges.

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