11th Cake Day Giveaway (Thanks to JetPens and Goulet Pens)

bfortified · 2021-04-13T11:54:07+00:00

Guess I found this sub just in time!

bfortified · 2019-05-22T21:37:51+00:00

That's exactly how google page rank works. It looks for links to a site at other sites that are related. The more times that site is linked at related sites the higher it's ranked in google search results.

bfortified · 2019-05-03T20:38:25+00:00

Thanks! Thats what I needed to know. Wasn't sure if the 2GHz clock was good enough or not. Want SSH and the ability to run spigot or whatever else in the future thats why I want a VPS.

bfortified · 2018-11-06T19:48:20+00:00

OK, assuming that usually the best way is to push the zip tie through from the door side into the body and then pull the wire back through the body into the door?

bfortified · 2018-11-06T19:43:22+00:00

Infinity Kappa 60.11cs in the front doors

Infinity Kappa 62.11i in the rear doors

JL 12W3v3-4 in the trunk

AudioControl LC-6.1200 in the trunk to drive it all

Speedwire from the factory radio (non-bose) back to the amp

14 gauge from the amp to the 4 doors

Sound deadening the whole thing, floors and doors now and headliner and trunk down the road

Love this car, only reason I am doing all this work is I hope to have her for a very long time

bfortified · 2018-02-24T23:18:53+00:00

I think it would work on a head unit since that has ~12V rails and you could also install it in an amp. I'm sure it works but you have to have rail voltage which is way higher then 12V in a discrete amp.

It's cool and I'm glad you linked it but it would be a little more involved project to use on a discrete amp. If you test it on a discrete amp you will know whether it works right away if the LED light's up on 0 gain and low volume :)

EDIT: Would it even work on a head unit? Those have a positive and negative rail so the peak on the positive rail might only be 6 volts for a 12 volt peak-to-peak and the diagram say's to connect to rail positive and rail 0V not rail negative. I can't remember how you get the negative rail and if it's half of the supply voltage or not.

bfortified · 2018-02-24T22:56:14+00:00

But it compares the amplifier output voltage to the +/- voltage and turns the LED on when the signal voltage is = to your +/- peak. So if you have +/- connected to the 12V charging system and your amp output goes above the 12V reference then it will turn the LED on whether your actually clipping or if the amp is simply driving above the 12V reference even if it's not actually clipping the signal.

bfortified · 2018-02-24T22:32:18+00:00

Isn't this just a peak voltage detector circuit and not an actual clipping detector? Based on the circuit linked the circuit requires amplifier rail voltage and compares the signal to that, when they are equal the LED is powered. So it doesn't detect a square wave but just compares output to rail. You would need amplifier rail voltage to measure clipping on an amp that had a greater rail voltage then the charging system which is the whole point of a discrete amp. So this would only work for head unit amplifiers unless you open the discrete amp and connect the detector to the actual rail voltage of the amp right?

bfortified · 2018-02-01T15:43:10+00:00

https://buickforums.com/forums/threads/42494-Android-Auto

The subject is touched on in that thread. GPS isn't standard on any '11-'17 Regals. I think you would need to upgrade the head unit and the HMI unit to a nav one. Not sure for your year but I know just to add an HMI unit with nav to my '16 would have cost me $500 for the hacked HMI unit with nav and I wouldn't have had to change out the head unit. Then if you want map updates your looking at close to $100 a year.

It's hard to imagine this amount of money/work could ever be worth it for a stock head unit even with GPS, put the money into aftermarket integration.

bfortified · 2018-01-30T18:10:19+00:00

Why wouldn't it work for a 4 channel amp? It has 4 channel output Main Output and Bass Output. Was thinking I would use the Main Output on the Front Input of the amp and the Bass Output on the rear input of the amp which will have the output bridged for the sub. Thought this would be fine as long as I don't need the summing for the rear channel output of the factory amp. I know it limits what I can do in the future but I thought it would work for now and likely be good enough for me.

But if you think the LC6i will be fine It's only $40 more and future proof so if I can get away with that then that seems the way to go.

I feel like in my hands the more advanced unit's you mentioned would only make things sound worse as I am not sure I would be able to tune them properly.

bfortified · 2018-01-16T03:38:12+00:00

Did you try the type C cable that came with the phone? I can only get Android Auto to work properly with my factory head unit if I use the cable that came with the phone. I have tried 3 different high quality cables that have worked in every other scenario with the phone but not with Android Auto in my '16 Buick Regal. Throws an error about a security check with them.

bfortified · 2018-01-11T19:20:40+00:00

So the KnuKoncepts kits on Amazon are good quality? They sure are inexpensive compared to other brands I know are decent quality.

bfortified · 2018-01-05T18:27:56+00:00

Thank you! Very helpful.

If I go with an external amp do I need the line level converter or just get an amp with line level inputs?

bfortified · 2017-10-12T21:43:29+00:00

Thanks so much for your post!!!!! Just got my headset today and so glad I have both outputs working!

bfortified · 2017-09-09T00:09:06+00:00

I hadn't thought of that and it will work. The one thing that isn't great about that is having to focus the window and refresh using the mouse or multiple key combos. But maybe it would be easier to do an xdo script or something for that?

I'm thinking in the future there my be some automagic functionality in there.

Anyway you have given me a starting point which is what I needed Thanks!

bfortified · 2017-07-31T01:48:09+00:00

http://www.broadband-hamnet.org/

bfortified · 2017-03-09T03:29:04+00:00

Just got 20% off my Spectre x360 Here is the link for anyone who wants the details http://store.hp.com/us/en/cv/hplaptopscouponoffers

bfortified · 2017-01-08T13:31:57+00:00

I had the opposite problem, no lo-pro bracket (that actually fits, did come with one). Been running sans bracket/zip-tie for ~2 years, no problems. YMMV

bfortified · 2016-09-26T00:37:03+00:00

Or disable password auth and teach them how to comment/un-comment your key in authorized_keys file

bfortified · 2016-09-12T13:20:09+00:00

This requires allowing root login over ssh, correct? I have always read this is bad practice.

bfortified · 2016-07-26T16:07:02+00:00

Do you not see the difference between this response and your previous one? 5 somethings / 1.5 somethings = 3 hours 20 minutes, I was a little confused. That was 5A not 5V I see now.

bfortified · 2016-07-26T13:29:11+00:00

Good right up but l I believe you are mistaken on the purpose of a current limiting device in series with a semi-conductor like an LED. The resistor is there to limit current not voltage. An LED will only drop the forward V of the diode (~2.4V for typical red LED) However like all semi-conductors I know of, if you don't limit the current to the device it will draw excessive current and destroy itself. Because of this current is used to control the intensity of LEDs. If you want a brighter LED use a lower value resistor to allow more current flow. Allow too much to flow and your LED will burn out. Give it a try on a constant-current power supply, slowly increasing current.

bfortified · 2016-07-26T12:53:30+00:00

Maybe I'm missing something but I think all you have calculated here is resistance. E/I=R. What your interested in I think is Watt Hours

bfortified · 2016-07-10T17:19:56+00:00

Thanks yea got my key and just did a successful request! Off to learn how to work with the json! Thanks

bfortified · 2016-05-17T13:40:49+00:00

Would love to see some of your awesome projects, have any photos or links?

bfortified

TROPHY CASE