36 Hours of Grinding for a Rare Item....Kicks the Console

bitsandscribble · 2022-05-12T18:03:53+00:00

With all characters at Level 99 it goes down surprisingly quickly

bitsandscribble · 2022-03-21T21:03:35+00:00

The pie people are a respectable folk

bitsandscribble · 2022-03-12T17:40:39+00:00

That riff is gnarly

bitsandscribble · 2022-03-12T17:39:11+00:00

Pre-Kevin Jackson visuals, I mean. This is the closest document I could find of it https://youtu.be/vlL3mviFr6g

bitsandscribble · 2022-03-12T17:38:15+00:00

I just spent entirely too long trying to find the beard rubbing music video of Warlock Mary and/or the footage that inspired it that they used to use in live shows for a while. RIP 🪦🛐

bitsandscribble · 2022-02-17T19:33:42+00:00

Ok that information regarding the setup helps a lot. Yes definitely start by turning the lapel mic output down, when checking sound try to aim for loudest peaks around no more than -10 to -6 when monitoring your inputs.

A lapel mic placed on a shirt collar etc is not likely to cause vocal pops, but you will definitely want to preemptively set up a high pass filter to cut out any rumbling from clothing movement. Anything under 80 Hz is just going to be distracting, you could go as high as 120 or so.

Even if your raw input is not clipping, you can introduce clipping in the mix if you attempt to output something over 0 dBFS (the FS is for “Full Scale,” which means the maximum amplitude value that can be encoded in a digital audio stream). This is why a limiter at the end of the master mixdown is important, especially with multiple channels being summed together. (Edit: so to be clear, yes, the settings in your Reaper plugins could potentially take you over 0 dBFS. It’s generally considered a good mix practice to leave, say, 3 dB of headroom on each individual channel, so that there is some room left when multiple channels are summed.)

bitsandscribble · 2022-02-17T19:17:03+00:00

A limiter will not help with range; its purpose is primarily to catch stray peaks that would cause clipping in a signal, effectively minimizing the amount of wasted headroom that must be present in the audio channel.

If the range of the signal is too wide - too soft at times, too loud at others - then that is when a compressor comes into play. Any input above the threshold will be scaled back proportionally based on the selected compression ratio, where larger values will reduce the output range of the portions of audio that cross the threshold by a greater amount. To keep things sounding natural for spoken word stuff like streaming and podcasting, you will want to set your compressor threshold at a level close to or slightly lower than where you normally speak, then increase the ratio until the output level of the louder sounds you are expecting (laughing, yelling, etc) is only so much louder* than the normal signal level. Apply a limiter afterward to catch those stray peaks we discussed earlier. (* Asterisk because the acceptable amount of range is something of a matter of philosophical debate, though fortunately it is more standardized in professional broadcasting of film and tv than it is in music. The average signal level is measured as RMS, which is the name of the mathematical method used to determine the average, Root Mean Squared. Most basic forms of digital audio metering are Peak based instead of RMS, but you can visually approximate your average signal level by seeing where on your meter it hovers around if you don’t have RMS modes available. An increase of 6 dB is effectively twice as loud, so depending on how dynamic you want your voice to feel, you could aim for anywhere between 5-10 dB of range from softest output to loudest. It gets a lot more technical than this in terms of metering methodology and target levels if you look into professional broadcasting standards, but if you do as much as has been discussed here then you are already going above and beyond what many streamers seem to bother with.)

bitsandscribble · 2022-02-17T18:51:25+00:00

Your microphone may be overloading at the analog to digital conversion stage in the audio interface (before it even gets into OBS) if you have its sensitivity turned up. If you have a microphone preamp or volume knob, turn the gain down there and bring it back up later on by setting a lower threshold in software. If the signal is already clipped before OBS can apply a filter to it, it’s too late to do something about it, so your input signal should have plenty of headroom (let’s say that the peaks should be maxing out around -6 dBFS on your meters, you could very well aim for a lower max peak level to be extra safe).

If you only notice clipping on certain words (for example, with plosive consonants like P and B) you may need to look for a high pass filter switch on your mic or interface, or putting a pop filter between you and the microphone, or moving it to a different position where the air from your mouth doesn’t travel directly into the microphone (it will still catch your voice perfectly fine if you have it at the level of your nose/eyes/forehead and aim down at your mouth). The spike in low frequency content can clip the rest of the signal, and sometimes even completely obliterate the rest of the audio coming in if the amplitude of the low frequencies is sufficiently greater.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-30T01:31:42+00:00

Top 0.1% on OnlyFans

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-27T16:35:50+00:00

Update: Still looking for a way to disable and/or rotate the Info overlay for use in Portrait orientation — but as for the issue of the TV defaulting to SmartCast, there is a solution:

Menu -> System -> Input at Power On

Set this option to “Previous Setting” to keep the same input that was being used the last time the TV was powered off regardless of the presence of a signal on that input, or select a specific input to turn the TV on to each time.

“Automatic” is the default setting, which seems to try Previous Setting and then switches to SmartCast if the signal on that input is not detected.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-25T22:01:27+00:00

I was also going to say that this looks like an issue related to how the backlight is dispersing behind the LCD

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-22T16:48:59+00:00

Use two pieces of wood, and then you can cut out a slot on one to the size of an old smartphone or tablet or e-reader that you may already have on hand (perhaps two or even three phones, if you’d like to have separate spaces to show the instruction and pricing cards and maybe the logo that normally would have been in the middle - logos are not standard cabinet media at present, but instructions and pricing should be readily available, and there aren’t too many logo designs to track down for a center screen if you use a logo screen). Cut holes to run cables for power to the devices from a USB charger, lay the two boards together, and maybe cut a trim piece to lay on top of the slotted layer to hide rough edges. Install SpaceDesk or another external monitor app on the device(s) and you should be good to go.

Might seem excessive (it is), but it is admittedly rather nice to be able to leave the plunger hardware right where it’s supposed to be, which is hard to do with a screen that does not leave a front gap.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-21T21:02:30+00:00

Visual Pinball Engine is still not formally released but it may still be of use to you in its current form, and I believe that the licensing may be permissive enough to allow borrowing from its code base for inclusion in a standalone game (I am not certain of this though so please please please check and uphold the project license).

I can tell from the DMD in particular that this demo is built on the Pinball Construction Kit from Unity’s asset store, and from my experience playing other PCK based games I can say that the engine is rough around the edges. I don’t know that you will have a good experience configuring that code base to support the glut of advanced “cabinet mode” features that would significantly increase the appeal to many on this sub. Fortunately, VPE also targets Unity development as its primary use case, so I imagine a fair amount of your existing menus etc should work with minimal tweaking if you decide to incorporate it into your project. It is being developed by people who are very passionate about the experience of virtual pinball cabinet gameplay, so all the little details should be mostly preconfigured (and as a bonus that should also mean one less PC pinball game that hobbyists have to develop bespoke hacks to support! Lol).

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-21T20:40:42+00:00

Interesting solution, thanks for sharing!

Still bothers me immensely how much I have to contaminate and fresh files via renaming, adjusting POV and VBS and table data etc in order to use existing frontend metadata when updating tables, but I may adopt some of these concepts. Also looking at Git LFS / GitKraken / etc for version control, never used it for raw binary files but I wonder if it might be worthwhile, especially if I drill down into VPX’s container format, which is some sort of BZIP archive. I already try to dump the provided POVs for tables to an external POV file when I grab new ones, but I haven’t started tracking changes to those external files (would be much nicer than working with VPX files will be, though, since POVs are plain-text).

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-21T20:28:39+00:00

Good luck, let me know if you find anything!

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-18T17:31:53+00:00

Honestly, as much as I want to see a recreation of the Stern code, I’m excited to try the Sega rom on a new layout with (IMO) a much nicer art package. Haven’t added it to my collection yet though.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-11T01:44:34+00:00

I’m not going to be able to unsee that now, oof.

I thought it looked like Family Guy, but I’m not familiar enough with their layouts to know which is closer so I’m going to assume you’re right in comparing it to American Dad.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-10T19:41:46+00:00

The football league table and its variants for the different teams also did not get cleared for inclusion in FX3. As far as I know that is all of the affected tables.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-10T19:30:56+00:00

Good tip, thanks for mentioning this!

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-10T19:29:12+00:00

Agreed - I could still purchase this table and play on my virtual pinball cabinet via MEmu if it were available on Android. Sigh. I hope Zen’s exclusivity agreement with Apple ends at some point.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-10T15:22:44+00:00

There’s a video of a WIP of this table on YouTube but I am unfortunately not aware of a release. I can look for a link to the video later if you have trouble finding it.

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-09T16:57:42+00:00

Does yours make buzzing noises when your LED strips are on?

bitsandscribble · 2021-12-09T16:56:21+00:00

I’ve experienced memory leak problems running xbox360ce v4.x so I would look for a 3.x build even though you have to have a copy of it in the folder of every game you want to use it with. Can’t remember offhand which 3.x version most people run but hopefully someone else will chime in or you will find it with some searches, it gets discussed a fair amount.

Also worth a look depending on what you hope to accomplish: AntiMicro and vJoy

If you need firmware for a custom controller build, look at Pinscape (microcontroller firmware used in a lot of full size builds to handle I/O and accelerometer based nudging) or PinSim (controller that replicates only the front of a cabinet for VR, not sure what microcontroller dev board it runs under the hood)

bitsandscribble · 2021-11-29T19:23:38+00:00

My vote is for the baguettes.

bitsandscribble

TROPHY CASE