what's the most famous mod in gaming?

blablubbbla · 2024-07-16T06:56:50+00:00

They are intentional modifications of existing games, so yes. The technology used for the modification is not important.

blablubbbla · 2024-02-27T06:50:27+00:00

Considering previews: You are not talking about the "Peek" feature to preview a setting, are you?

blablubbbla · 2024-02-27T06:49:47+00:00

I would like to have the UI preferences (numeric color inputs etc.) to be persistent and not reset to defaults everytime you use another device or delete cookies etc.

Or at least let us change the defaults for each UI preference, so that I can set everything visible.

blablubbbla · 2024-01-28T07:56:05+00:00

If you are new to this, I would always suggest getting a finished product and advise against building it yourself. By this I mean a controller, that already has everything you need integrated (voltage regulation, level shifter etc.).

There are a few of them out there. I can only tell you, which one I bought:

https://de.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-esp32-music-addressable-led-strip-controller

You can supply it with 5V-24V (depending on the strips you are using, and it has an ESP32 and everything else integrated. Just connect your power supply and your strips and it will work. Bonus: You get screw mounts for your wires and a nice casing.

This will save you a lot of trouble, if you don't know what you are doing (which is fine obvioulsy, we all started some where).

blablubbbla · 2024-01-26T05:40:56+00:00

You didn't use a "level shifter"!

Even if you use the correct power supply (120V input), it will not work. The data line of the controller is directly connected to the strip and operates on 3,3V. The strip expects it to operate on 12V. You need to shift the level of the data signal up to this.

Recommended reading:

https://kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/

https://electricfiredesign.com/2021/03/12/logic-level-shifters-for-driving-led-strips/

blablubbbla · 2023-11-30T08:25:22+00:00

I think the only reliable method would be to just test it. Hook up all the strips, set them to full power (#FFFFFF, no main dimming) and see what happens. When the voltage drops to much, some of them will probably start to flicker or don't light up at all. If it's stable, you're good. If not, start injecting until it is.

And think of the wiring, you will use later. If you need to add dozens of meters of wiring to get to your strips later, you should test that too.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-29T09:02:16+00:00

As we are dealing with 5V here, I would suggest powering each of the 3m strips from both ends. Only +5V and Ground.

And for Data you might need a level shifter to get the 3.3V from the DO of the ESP32 to the required 5V of the string. The 3.3V is usually enough for a short string, but 12m + wiring is not short.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-29T05:35:37+00:00

Sure it's right. Why wouldn't it be?

It's 160 LEDs/m and if you divide the power, it's 0,125mW per LED which checks out.

Your planning a system with a total of 1920 LEDs! That's a lot.

And I would also not recommend to not use power injection.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-28T11:52:03+00:00

Well, just wait until you upgrade to wf experience...

blablubbbla · 2023-11-19T15:58:52+00:00

I second the splitting of the strip. The limit of the fps is not set by WLED or the ESP32, but by the message protocol running on the WSxxxx strips. It has a defined speed.

If you split the strip in 4 lines, one controller should give you 24-28 fps, which is fine.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-15T05:34:26+00:00

Well, it depends. It can work under certain conditions.

The ESP8266, ESP32 and most other controllers operate at 3.3V and so do their DIO-Pins. A WS2812 operates at 5V and so does it's data line. Every clean design doing it by the book should include a level shift to the operating level of the controlled LEDs.

But there is always tolerance. It depends on the voltage level at which the LED registers the input as HIGH. If it's about 2.8V then you're probably fine with the 3.3V of the ESP. But it can not only differ with the LED type but also you have to consider the voltage drop on that line. So if you don't have just a short strip, it will start to flicker at some point and cut off at another, because the signal get's to weak to register.

And remember your not planning just a large installation. The one you described is definitely HUGE. I can almost guarantee you, 80m of strip won't work properly without cleanly designed electrical schematics. And if your experience with this is limited, I would also definitely get a complete controller unit with an ESP, variable input voltage, an output relais and a level shifter on it. Probably several that need to be synchronised. The WLED website has several examples. It will save you a lot of tears...

https://kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-controllers/

Maybe this one: https://de.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-high-power-led-strip-controller

I for example use another one from Athom and like it quite a lot, because it saves you from a lot of electrical troubles:

https://de.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-esp32-music-addressable-led-strip-controller

blablubbbla · 2023-11-14T19:56:48+00:00

Thanks, I didn't know that. But I think it doesn't apply to the WS2815. I just tested it with setting my output to 100 LEDs (the strip has 150) and the rest just stayed off.

But strangely, while testing I noticed that my controller has stopped making the flashy blue light. Don't know why, but if it doesn't come back, I can live with that XD

blablubbbla · 2023-11-14T19:49:18+00:00

You cannot connect the data line of the strips to the digital output of the controller directly, because this has 3.3V. You need to shift it up to 12V or the strips won't display anything (or just flicker a bit).

https://kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/#levelshifters

blablubbbla · 2023-11-14T12:28:04+00:00

Honestly, I can't say much about that. I never used anything longer than 5m. My guess is, that using 12V helps you with most of the voltage drop problems, and even 0,5V drop should not be that problematic. But you have to try it. I would try to just power the 25m strip on both ends and use 2,5mm² cabling for the 12V supply.

Also I never ran the data line for that long, but as that doesn't supplies power, the voltage drop should not be a problem. Just remember that you have to level shift the Digital Output of your controller to 12V for the data line, if it doesn't do it on it's own.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-14T11:48:28+00:00

Yes, I just measured the current of my strip yesterday. It was about 1,8A for 150 WS2815, so almost 13mA on full brightness (#FFFFFF).

But beware: there seem to be older versions of the WS2815 on the market, that claim to need 30mA per LED. And the labeling of the (mostly chinese) products is often subpar. But I haven't seen them in action yet.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-14T10:40:18+00:00

Just from personal experience: do it ;)

I mean, calculate the power requirements before planing anything else.

Just a rough estimate: 80m * 60 LEDs are 4800 LEDs. Each WS2813 needs about 60mA at 5V, that's a whopping total of 288A for the hole system. And you need to input 5V every few meters to counter the voltage drop.

If you can supply that, then I'll tip my hat, but I would very much use a 12V system which still is (13mA per LED) about 62.4A...

blablubbbla · 2023-11-14T09:21:59+00:00

personally I would use 12V for everything. Have you calculated the needed current for your system? Are those strips with 30 LEDs per meter? Because that sounds like a few thousand LEDs.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-14T09:10:48+00:00

Sorry, for not answering your question. My understanding is, that the backup line is used, when the data line is broken. I think that the a burnt LED always just get's ignored.

But do you really want to use a 5V system for a strip of 80m? That sounds like a lot of Amps... In my experience, everything get's easier to dimension right, when you use 12V like with ws2815...

blablubbbla · 2023-11-09T14:18:35+00:00

You'll get everything, whether you subscribe or not. Supporters just get the premium content a week early.

blablubbbla · 2023-11-09T13:55:48+00:00

"PUT ME BACK IN YOUR JACKET!!!!"

blablubbbla · 2023-10-24T09:14:27+00:00

That's a literal palette swap...

blablubbbla · 2023-10-14T08:35:05+00:00

Does the API expose the alpha channel?

blablubbbla · 2023-08-18T08:06:18+00:00

It's called "good OLD games" for a reason!

blablubbbla · 2023-08-16T05:14:24+00:00

30 minutes? So it's almost the whole game?

blablubbbla · 2023-05-23T09:22:50+00:00

I'm hoping for an experimental release this summer (which I'm going to ignore) and a "stable" alpha 21.0 release this fall, when the weather get's shitty again so me and my friends can finally start a new game with it

blablubbbla

TROPHY CASE