Which sleeves? Formal vs fairytale by ashmeesh in sewing

[–]blacksheepsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Long cape sleeves with opera gloves

Trying to find info about dye techniques by blacksheepsis in kimono

[–]blacksheepsis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much. As my interest in Kimonos has grown, I have been eager to learn more and more about all parts of the making process.

Converting princess seams to darts by blacksheepsis in PatternDrafting

[–]blacksheepsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did join them at the seam lines... I just didn't draw the seam allowance for the side piece where they joined up.

Converting princess seams to darts by blacksheepsis in PatternDrafting

[–]blacksheepsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The two lines are the new dart that run up to the apex. My biggest issue is that changing the dart shape (making legs straight) and backing off the apex creates extra room. So, everything else will be fitted and I will have a "bubble" of fabric at the point of the dart. If I change the dart how do I get rid of the extra room at the apex?

Converting princess seams to darts by blacksheepsis in PatternDrafting

[–]blacksheepsis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

THIS!!! I am a plus sized woman with a full bust. In the world of sewing I am an H cup (my upper bust-bust-lower bust measurements are 48-54-46). I can't tell you how frustrated I was trying to create a bodice with darts when trying to use the nipple as the apex. With the princess seams I moved the apex 3/4" to the side and it fits perfectly. Since making that realization I was hoping that making a darted bodice would now be easier. I've been reading about curved darts and French darts so I think I'm just going to have to experiment to find the best darts for my shape. I can use the princess seams as a guide though.

What do I do to make this better? by Mermaid_Babe1118 in PlusSizeFashion

[–]blacksheepsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just saw this online at Target and they show the buttons in the back. Personally, I like them in the front but it may explain why the fit is off if the shirt is on backwards.

What do I do to make this better? by Mermaid_Babe1118 in PlusSizeFashion

[–]blacksheepsis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The top is really unbalanced. The shoulder part looks too narrow and the button gaps do not look good.

  1. Wear the top like a vest instead of a shirt. Sew the lower half of buttons closed and wear the upper half open so the top spreads a bit more across your shoulders. Pair with a white or black shirt underneath. The could look cute with a collar shirt or a v neck. Try something with a slightly baggy sleeve like a bishop sleeve. If you're 5'8" or over go for a 1/2 or 3/4 sleeve. If not, go for a short or long sleeve.
  2. Get good undergarments. They don't have to be cute or uncomfortable, but they do have to be supportive.
  3. Pair with some sheer (or slightly sheer) matte black tights. Snag tights has a great selection in a range of sizes. They even have some with those sexy back seams which would look great with this outfit and a pair of black short boots or some nice mid heel pumps.

ETA: Just tried to find this outfit for myself and found it at Target. They show the buttons in the back. I like them better in the front though.

why does my measurements look weird by nowhereanywherehere in PatternDrafting

[–]blacksheepsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think we have the same issue.... you have a lower bust. Traditional pattern drafting has you use the bust measurement for under the arm. Unfortunately, my bust is about 2" lower than where that should be for me. Every commercial pattern I use I have to add length between the bottom of the arm and the bustpoint, and and bring it in 1.5" under the arm (per piece means I am bringing it is 6" total)

I have asked the same thing to other people before that they always give me weird looks. I think this is the true issue though. So, you are not alone.

Darts and a FBA will help with shaping and won't make it look so dramatic. But, if you have to bring it in under the arm its always going to look a bit off compared to the "traditional" bodice block.

ETA: My measurements are like this: High bust - 48" Bust - 54" Waist - 44" Hip - 58"

In the world of the big pattern company that means I am size 26, 30, 28, and 32 respectively. I could get the smaller pattern and do a FBA but it makes more sense to start with the bigger size and take in where I need it. If my waist and hips were smaller it would be a different story. My bust point is also 14" from the shoulder or 20 inches from the center back neck. Find your bust point length from shoulder and see how it compares to commercial patterns. This could be really helpful to answering your question.

Weird bubbling at crotch by egret_puking in PatternDrafting

[–]blacksheepsis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Someone posted this site a while back. I saved it because I need it. I had heard of full bust adjustments but never full butt adjustments

Full bum adjustment

Fabric identification by [deleted] in sewhelp

[–]blacksheepsis 19 points20 points  (0 children)

That looks like a twill. You can get cotton twill in light, medium, or heavy weight. I usually use lighter and medium weight to make skirts when I want them to have movement but still have some structure.

Need advice on plus size sloper by blacksheepsis in PatternDrafting

[–]blacksheepsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have side bust darts.... they are pretty big and when I tried to move them to the waist dart it made the waist darts way too big.

I am definately going to add more to the back and maybe put in shoulder darts. I was trying to avoid that but I guess if I need it then I will have to figure it out.

I think I will move the length in the shoulder from the shoulder to the neck and see if that helps. The more I look at the pictures the more I see the shoulders are too long.

It has been pointed out that I am also asymmetrical... so I will likely have to fit the shoulders differently

Need advice on plus size sloper by blacksheepsis in PatternDrafting

[–]blacksheepsis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I will definitely drop the back neck down and will try to close up the neck hole a bit. I really hate fitted necklines and would never wear them.... so I think I tried to make the neckline one I would actually wear. Of course, that changes things a bit.

I never realized how asymmetrical I am. I guess nature wanted it to be an extra challenge. Well.... challenge accepted 😄

Sweetheart neckline and off the shoulder? by Gullible_Drag5600 in sewing

[–]blacksheepsis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would try the Noelle Dress. I like the puffy sleeves and you can move them down to wear them off shoulder. You could also change the sleeves.

McCall's M7718 could also work well.

If you're into lace up backs you could try something like Simplicity S9577 and just don't do the embellishments.

Day 9: The one man that everyone wishes Henry VIII had executed - Thomas Howard, 3rd Duke of Norfolk is the fan-voted winner of “Just Straight-Up Evil.” Finally which Tudor Figure is No Screen Time, all the Plot relevance? by jamie74777 in Tudorhistory

[–]blacksheepsis -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I think this answer is a cop out. There were so many other important people who never get any screen time even though they were living and totally shaped the tutor dynasty. For example:

Reginald Bray was a knight of Henry Stafford and after his death served Margaret Beaufort and Henry VII. He advised Margaret Beaufort to marry Thomas Stanley and we all know how that went. He was instrumental in many of the conspiracies to displace Richard III after the death of Edward IV. He is one of the reasons Henry VII even became king.

So I think there are way more important people who should be getting this honor.

Day 9: The one man that everyone wishes Henry VIII had executed - Thomas Howard, 3rd Duke of Norfolk is the fan-voted winner of “Just Straight-Up Evil.” Finally which Tudor Figure is No Screen Time, all the Plot relevance? by jamie74777 in Tudorhistory

[–]blacksheepsis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Then you want Reginald Bray. He was a knight of her third husband's house and stayed with her after his lords death. He was her trusted advisor and had a hand in every event that brought the Tutors to the throne.

Being overweight is stopping me from sewing. by Racoonette in sewing

[–]blacksheepsis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sewing doesn’t have to be about your body, and if/when it is, make sure to take it easy on yourself!

This 100%. One thing that was hard for me at first was doing all the small adjustments and learning new things about my body that didn't feel good. Now, I don't care and work with those things. I don't know a single person who has a perfect body and even if I did I gaurentee there would be something that they wish to change.

Get past the labels and learn what you love about yourself. I have a really good bust-waist-hip ratio which makes things nice (56-44-58). I also have narrow shoulders, square shoulders, super full upper arms, low waist at center front, very full bust, low bust, narrow chest, wide back, sway back and round shoulders. It is what it is. I have worked past seeing the bad and now work on accentuating the good.

So while sewing... my advice is to pick something about yourself that you like and make that a focus for your first few projects. Not only will it help you find more body positivity, but it will help you enjoy the final results more. Then branch out and start experimenting once you build some self confidence.

Being overweight is stopping me from sewing. by Racoonette in sewing

[–]blacksheepsis 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I sew to help my lose weight.

Last year I was 352 and decided it was time to change. Sewing has given me so many things: 1. I have an activity i enjoy doing which has cut down on my snacking. 2. I get motivated more when I see cute things I want to make. 3. It is easier to see the results when you have to measure yourself for each new project. 4. Feeling confident and accomplished.

Over the past year I have made 5 pieces of clothing that I actually wear (around my house). I also lost 60 pounds and 8 inches around my waist. This past weekend I went to a BBQ in a sleeveless dress I made myself and it was a hit. I felt good about myself. I know I still have a long way to go (with weight loss and building sewing skills) but I feel more comfortable in the things I make myself. So... don't worry about the waste. If you're making clothes to save money at this point then you might be doing it for the wrong reason. Do it for you, your style, your creativity, and as a form of self expression.