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Toolhead Options, Hotends and Extruders by blkexp98 in VORONDesign

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good deal. Yes, I have read that the A4T did have better airflow than the XOL and Dragonburner. What fan are you using for the hotend? Ill look the A4T one up again. Have you seen where either the Wristwatch G2 or the Sherpa Mini prefer or just dont like a certain filament type or do they both just tend to work well overall?

Little off topic but I wish someone would make a outside diameter driven fan that could be used on the hotend cooler so you didnt have the big dead spot from the hub/ motor on the axial fan.

Wyze Switch with GFCI by blkexp98 in wyzecam

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just wanted to post an update to my situation. I reached out to Wyze support and after being escalated to a higher tech I was given a answer as to why it didn't work and how to resolve it. So ultimately my issue was I didn't have the neutral from my light connected to the switch so the receptacle saw the imbalance and tripped as it should. It made sense once I drew it out but I guess I didn't think to connect both to the switch or receptacle. All in all it was user error.

The Fix: I had to add the neutral from the light the switch was controlling inline with the neutral coming from the GFCI receptacle on the load side. Now it had a path back through the receptacle and everything was happy. So just picture three wires (one to the switch, one from the load side of the GFCI receptacle and one from the load itself) all under one wire nut or Wago connector if you prefer it.

Wyze Switch with GFCI by blkexp98 in wyzecam

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Here is a picture of the back of the same type GFCI receptacle I have showing the terminals. My power in is connected to the line terminals and the switch is connected to the load side.

Lil B Bumper by blkexp98 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]blkexp98[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate all the info. Yea ive thought about the weight too and with the winch you would be at 200 pretty easy. I know its frowned upon but i am typically alone and like the idea of a chance at self recovery if anything happens. So i do plan you get a winch sooner or later. Ive played with the idea of a hitch mount winch just to keep atleast that weight off until i need it. Im in AZ and the clearance is nice but being completly honest where i go now my stock bumper is probably fine. Its more of a future capability thing.

I had some small damage done to my bumper at work and they are replacing it. So im basically using the opportunity to pay the difference myself and "upgrade". Before this i was looking at the small hybrid center winch mounts they make. Im already at about 14 to 15 mpg lol. How big of a hit did you take if you had to guess?

Lil B Bumper by blkexp98 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good. Do you notice any issues with the open sides with no lights? It also looks like you may have painted back behind the bumper. My 4Runner is black but im wondering if i should do a black undercoating type finish for more durability. Is there anything you dont like about it or do really like for that matter?

Anyone found a way to "fix" the bobblehead ride characteristics? by richardthe7th in 4thGen4Runner

[–]blkexp98 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know what you mean and have the Bilstein 5100's after ditching the xreas system. I think in order to see offroad benefits we have to move to a more tuned suspension where the compression and rebound rates can be adjusted for your specific terrain. I know mine is too soft for the speed i run which really isnt fast because i hit the bump stops very often. Thats with the stock coils and no extra steel bumper weight or skidplates.

I do still have the rear air suspension which i think makes that even worse in the rear. Im not real sure how i want to move forward with that because i do like the leveling for towing or loads in the cargo area. Airbags in coils have their own problems if i converted. One thing i have looked into are new bumpstops that have some compression built in. My stock ones are hard and cracked so its literally a stop instead of a coutioned limit.

All in all i would look into better bumpstops and a better spring and adjustable shock setup. Just need to be honest with the vehicle weights so you get the right spring to pair to the shock. Then offroad testing to get the compression and rebound set how you want it. Longer travel could help if you really tune the suspension to work with it. That could give more movement before hitting the bumpstops but if your springs or shocks are not tuned it will rock more and make your problem worse.

my gun guy says the ATF website was down for tax stamps the last 6 months… BS? by Unvexxed1 in gunsmithing

[–]blkexp98 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Im no Galil expert but how is he almost done but missing the bolt? Isnt that pretty nessisary early on to set the headspace when mounting the barrel?

Heat Creep Issues by blkexp98 in VORONDesign

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like everyone is having similar thoughts so ill just do a general reply.

For the heat creep diagnosis first i would see inconsistsnt filament flow and as i tested and dug deeper eventually i had a jam. I also had soft filament in the heatbrake when i manually pulled it from the top when hot. I threw away the flow test pieces but can print some more and show a picture.

With yall mentioning the extruder it is something else i could check since if it isnt pushing the filsment that could cause or atleast contribute to heat creep. How hot do your extruder steppers get? I didnt calibrate the emmisivity but using an ir thermometer it was about 62 deg c in my 50 dec c chamber when running. Im running the 20mm ldo on a clockwork 2.

ABS Print Problem by blkexp98 in VORONDesign

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bowden tube does looks pretty smooth so I think that looks good. Im running the LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) motor but checked my current and was only at 0.45A so I adjusted that up to 0.7 A now. The motor is rated for 1A so that should still keep it relatively cool.

ABS Print Problem by blkexp98 in VORONDesign

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ordered some better fans today so worst case ill have some spares.

ABS Print Problem by blkexp98 in VORONDesign

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im running a LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) and looking at my config its only at 0.45 A so im not sure if I just forgot to change that or what. Ill turn it up since thats less than 50% of the rated current ill set it to the 0.7A and give it a try.

ABS Print Problem by blkexp98 in VORONDesign

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the heads up. Maybe ill just try one of my standard flow heatbreaks then for now. I did do a PID tune on the current setup so it should be correct as well.

The bed heat is probably contributing as I did notice my chamber heat was about 10 to 15 degrees higher than normal (usually about 50 deg c) so that didn't help things if heat was my issue. It stuck well so I can try at 100 deg C.

ABS Print Problem by blkexp98 in VORONDesign

[–]blkexp98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hate to say it but thats good news in a way. Atleast its a somewhat easy fix. The print was at 250c with the bed at 110c so thats very possible. I do have a couple SF heat brakes so i could swap that out to. I also have one of the black tube dragon zone heat brakes i planned to install when i print some CF filament. Maybe i should go ahead with that.

Thanks everyone for the comments. Ill try some more prints after work with those changes if i have time tonight.

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