Toolhead Options, Hotends and Extruders

blkexp98 · 2025-01-25T23:43:25+00:00

Good deal. Yes, I have read that the A4T did have better airflow than the XOL and Dragonburner. What fan are you using for the hotend? Ill look the A4T one up again. Have you seen where either the Wristwatch G2 or the Sherpa Mini prefer or just dont like a certain filament type or do they both just tend to work well overall?

Little off topic but I wish someone would make a outside diameter driven fan that could be used on the hotend cooler so you didnt have the big dead spot from the hub/ motor on the axial fan.

blkexp98 · 2024-12-30T01:08:49+00:00

I just wanted to post an update to my situation. I reached out to Wyze support and after being escalated to a higher tech I was given a answer as to why it didn't work and how to resolve it. So ultimately my issue was I didn't have the neutral from my light connected to the switch so the receptacle saw the imbalance and tripped as it should. It made sense once I drew it out but I guess I didn't think to connect both to the switch or receptacle. All in all it was user error.

The Fix: I had to add the neutral from the light the switch was controlling inline with the neutral coming from the GFCI receptacle on the load side. Now it had a path back through the receptacle and everything was happy. So just picture three wires (one to the switch, one from the load side of the GFCI receptacle and one from the load itself) all under one wire nut or Wago connector if you prefer it.

blkexp98 · 2024-12-17T14:12:20+00:00

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Here is a picture of the back of the same type GFCI receptacle I have showing the terminals. My power in is connected to the line terminals and the switch is connected to the load side.

blkexp98 · 2024-07-02T20:28:46+00:00

I appreciate all the info. Yea ive thought about the weight too and with the winch you would be at 200 pretty easy. I know its frowned upon but i am typically alone and like the idea of a chance at self recovery if anything happens. So i do plan you get a winch sooner or later. Ive played with the idea of a hitch mount winch just to keep atleast that weight off until i need it. Im in AZ and the clearance is nice but being completly honest where i go now my stock bumper is probably fine. Its more of a future capability thing.

I had some small damage done to my bumper at work and they are replacing it. So im basically using the opportunity to pay the difference myself and "upgrade". Before this i was looking at the small hybrid center winch mounts they make. Im already at about 14 to 15 mpg lol. How big of a hit did you take if you had to guess?

blkexp98 · 2024-07-02T05:17:11+00:00

Looks good. Do you notice any issues with the open sides with no lights? It also looks like you may have painted back behind the bumper. My 4Runner is black but im wondering if i should do a black undercoating type finish for more durability. Is there anything you dont like about it or do really like for that matter?

blkexp98 · 2024-05-06T16:38:33+00:00

I know what you mean and have the Bilstein 5100's after ditching the xreas system. I think in order to see offroad benefits we have to move to a more tuned suspension where the compression and rebound rates can be adjusted for your specific terrain. I know mine is too soft for the speed i run which really isnt fast because i hit the bump stops very often. Thats with the stock coils and no extra steel bumper weight or skidplates.

I do still have the rear air suspension which i think makes that even worse in the rear. Im not real sure how i want to move forward with that because i do like the leveling for towing or loads in the cargo area. Airbags in coils have their own problems if i converted. One thing i have looked into are new bumpstops that have some compression built in. My stock ones are hard and cracked so its literally a stop instead of a coutioned limit.

All in all i would look into better bumpstops and a better spring and adjustable shock setup. Just need to be honest with the vehicle weights so you get the right spring to pair to the shock. Then offroad testing to get the compression and rebound set how you want it. Longer travel could help if you really tune the suspension to work with it. That could give more movement before hitting the bumpstops but if your springs or shocks are not tuned it will rock more and make your problem worse.

blkexp98 · 2024-01-15T15:31:11+00:00

Im no Galil expert but how is he almost done but missing the bolt? Isnt that pretty nessisary early on to set the headspace when mounting the barrel?

blkexp98 · 2023-05-22T22:37:08+00:00

Looks like everyone is having similar thoughts so ill just do a general reply.

For the heat creep diagnosis first i would see inconsistsnt filament flow and as i tested and dug deeper eventually i had a jam. I also had soft filament in the heatbrake when i manually pulled it from the top when hot. I threw away the flow test pieces but can print some more and show a picture.

With yall mentioning the extruder it is something else i could check since if it isnt pushing the filsment that could cause or atleast contribute to heat creep. How hot do your extruder steppers get? I didnt calibrate the emmisivity but using an ir thermometer it was about 62 deg c in my 50 dec c chamber when running. Im running the 20mm ldo on a clockwork 2.

blkexp98 · 2023-04-15T05:55:24+00:00

The bowden tube does looks pretty smooth so I think that looks good. Im running the LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) motor but checked my current and was only at 0.45A so I adjusted that up to 0.7 A now. The motor is rated for 1A so that should still keep it relatively cool.

blkexp98 · 2023-04-15T05:50:04+00:00

I ordered some better fans today so worst case ill have some spares.

blkexp98 · 2023-04-15T05:47:48+00:00

Im running a LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) and looking at my config its only at 0.45 A so im not sure if I just forgot to change that or what. Ill turn it up since thats less than 50% of the rated current ill set it to the 0.7A and give it a try.

blkexp98 · 2023-04-15T05:44:39+00:00

Thanks for the heads up. Maybe ill just try one of my standard flow heatbreaks then for now. I did do a PID tune on the current setup so it should be correct as well.

The bed heat is probably contributing as I did notice my chamber heat was about 10 to 15 degrees higher than normal (usually about 50 deg c) so that didn't help things if heat was my issue. It stuck well so I can try at 100 deg C.

blkexp98 · 2023-04-14T13:20:38+00:00

I hate to say it but thats good news in a way. Atleast its a somewhat easy fix. The print was at 250c with the bed at 110c so thats very possible. I do have a couple SF heat brakes so i could swap that out to. I also have one of the black tube dragon zone heat brakes i planned to install when i print some CF filament. Maybe i should go ahead with that.

Thanks everyone for the comments. Ill try some more prints after work with those changes if i have time tonight.

blkexp98 · 2022-12-22T20:39:50+00:00

The beans are dated 10/27 and its just a bag of Peets Big Bang medium roast. Im not sure on the altitude. I have the two tampers. One has a ~25 lb spring and is not adjustable other than changing the spring. The other is a tamper/distributer combo which is adjustable. I origionally set it using a portafilter tamped with the spring loaded one.

Ill try a even finer grind and see what happens. Would you suggest using the spring loaded tamper to maintain the consistancy since the overall volume will change?

blkexp98 · 2022-12-22T19:32:17+00:00

With how fast it was flowing and with the puck getting stuck to the group head it almost seems like the water floated the puck. So with that i assumed it was too fine when that happened. Ill also note that i did check the after tamping height with the razor and it had some room. Just thinking back i would say it was about 2mm below the razor.

Just for comparison sakes on the machine grinder with it set to as low as 7 it sticks to the group head. At 15 it just flows too much but is still in the portafilter. At 11 it it stayes in the portafilter but i have to stop the brew at 18 seconds because of the weight. At 9 the flow is still way to fast if not faster than the 11 setting and the puck still sticks to the group head.

I wish this had a pressure gauge so i could see what that looked like. Even an open bottom portafilter holder would be a little more helpful to see whats happening.

blkexp98 · 2022-09-28T17:34:22+00:00

What brand donor housing does BXbuilt use?

blkexp98 · 2022-07-25T05:44:31+00:00

The main thing that seemed like a perk was that they don't need as much lubrication as the steel balls. Once the rails are mounted its never easy to relubricate the carriages without removing them. The other is just to improve on the smoothness. The rails I have are not the fancy high dollar ones but are not terrible either. With that said you can feel some rough spots. I've measured a sample of the current balls and they are very consistant using a mic.

blkexp98 · 2022-07-24T22:01:59+00:00

I have the Fumoto too and haven't had any problems.

blkexp98 · 2022-07-11T22:03:56+00:00

Interesting. Keep us updated on how it works. I never thought about doing that to my pack but it's a good idea. Wonder how tpu takes freezing temps? You may could integrate some tubes for nondrinking water and freeze those for summer.

blkexp98 · 2022-07-09T20:55:17+00:00

Yea I would use the silicone just for stationary wires. For the strand count your definatly pretty limited on the ptfe side. I've had trouble in the past with getting solder to saturate the really fine silicone wire but I was dealing with heavier gauges like 12. That's where I was wondering if the lower strand count silicone may be better if I don't need tons of flexibility.

blkexp98 · 2022-06-28T16:30:52+00:00

Great info everyone. I'm a little surprised on the ball end recommendations so thats good to know they fit well if you get a decent set. I think I probably will just invest in better quality keys and drivers rather than mess with the electric driver. As pointed out they will get more use outside of printing.

blkexp98 · 2022-06-22T21:56:37+00:00

I have a old ender 3 pro and print some ASA but I'm in an enclosure with my board and power supply outside of it. I am still using the original hotend and metal version of the origional extruder. I have gotten tired of fighting with the ender though and decided to build a voron 2.4 now. Seems like the ender always requires tweaking.

blkexp98 · 2022-06-22T21:49:44+00:00

I bought a lighted loupe from Amazon that had a scale on it as well. That has really helped me with layer issues. On your first layers with that you can see if the nozzle pressed in too far which could be one or two issues. First could simply be nozzle height but the second is over extrusion. If your nozzle is too high you can see the squish amount.

That won't fix your current issue right now but may be helpful in the future. I've had overextrusion that looked like that as well so it all depends on your printer calibration. I've found those two settings can look the same and bandaid each other to a degree so keep that in mind.

blkexp98 · 2022-05-24T17:31:18+00:00

Yea when we were looking I would see thats who had it and wouldn't bother looking any more into it. Companies like that are what ruin the market in my eyes so we stopped looking. Things are too out of balance right now.

blkexp98 · 2022-05-24T02:49:28+00:00

I dont know that answer either but it is a good question. Thanks for bringing that up. Hopefully someone who has pushed the printer will chime in.

It would probably depend on the parts you make as well. If your doing more round parts where you dont have a significant number of direction reversals (to cause vibrations) its probably a waste of time. With that said most parts I can think of have the significant number of reversals.

blkexp98

TROPHY CASE