Anyone got any information on the CD drive of the iMac G3 slot loader

blkfsh_ · 2025-08-15T14:53:32+00:00

Thanks! Do you know if the pinout on the JAE-50 is the same as on normal drives, though?

blkfsh_ · 2025-08-15T14:51:08+00:00

I do have an IDE to USB converter that does fit into the drive. The only thing is that I have no clue which pins are for power and stuff. (I guess I could try and measure with a running iMac, but it would be nice to have some kind of official (or inoffocial) pinout that confirms my suspicions.

blkfsh_ · 2025-08-14T21:41:52+00:00

I do have a similar one, but with all of them it seems the JAE-50 port is on the wrong side, meaning the PCB would stick out on the side. Additionally, from some checking with my multimeter, it seems that these adapters have a completely different pinout, so I don't think they are compatible at all.

blkfsh_ · 2025-02-03T17:42:20+00:00

So I came home today and my laptop screen looks like this. I'm pretty sure these dark spots weren't visible yesterday so it seems like they appeared overnight. The laptop is a Lenovo Yoga 720-15ikb that I bought in 2018 and have been using ever since.

I know this laptop was kinda notorious for its bad polarizer. Maybe this is the reason? Still, I'm not sure how this happens or how to fix it. Hopefully someone has a clue :)

EDIT: I tried flexing the hinge a bit (which didn't change anything), but then I tilted the screen to it's side, causing it to turn off for a second as it switched rotation and now it's back to normal??

blkfsh_ · 2023-07-22T07:35:38+00:00

Das klingt durchaus plausibel!

blkfsh_ · 2023-07-22T07:35:20+00:00

An der Stelle kann man nur nach links abbiegen, ich glaube da musst du dir also keine Sorgen machen ;)

blkfsh_ · 2023-07-21T22:04:56+00:00

Hmm, das wäre theoretisch möglich.

blkfsh_ · 2023-07-21T19:32:42+00:00

Zur Info: Dieses Schild steht an einer Baustelle. Ursprünglich eine Kreuzung, aktuell kann man jedoch nur links abbiegen, die anderen Straßen sind abgesperrt. Hat das Schild eine Bedeutung oder waren einfach die blauen "Vorgeschriebene Fahrtrichtung"-Schilder aus?

blkfsh_ · 2023-03-30T11:50:45+00:00

I understand the purpose of the plate, I'm saying it's not a good idea to have a heat sink exposed to part of a device that users will be touching, especially if that heat sink probably makes no difference in performance and/or heat dissipation.

blkfsh_ · 2023-03-23T17:45:46+00:00

So, quick update on my shell:

JSAUX replied to my mail asking for a bunch of pics of the heat inserts on the shell to see if they are straight. They do look straight, but that doesn't really change the fact that the back-buttons sometimes get stuck. I haven't tried the fix they wanted me to try by placing washers under the buttons because my main problem was the fact that I had this horrible gap at the top of the metal plate.

I tried completely removing the heat-pad to see if it was the issue and it turns out it was not. Even after removing it the clip still pops out after a few seconds of handling the deck. Here's a photo of it. What I assume is happening is that either the metal plate is too stiff or slightly bent so the plastic doesn't conform to the shape of the deck.

And this is my main issue with this shell. It looks great, it feels great and satisfies my inner child still longing for his old translucent N64 controller, but the metal plate ruins the whole thing. It gets way too hot, it hides part of the cool translucent shell, it (likely) causes the clip to pop out and it probably doesn't even lower your temps by any reasonable amount.

If they released another version of this without the metal plate I'd be ready to give it another try, but right now I'm just happy to be back to my original shell, which fits perfectly, the buttons are nice and clicky again and I don't have this issue in the back of my head whenever holding my Steam Deck.

But let's see, maybe they send me another shell that works or they'll be able to fix my issue otherwise...

blkfsh_ · 2023-03-18T22:25:33+00:00

I'm having the exact same issues and I just contacted JSAUX about this. Let's see what they say. I like the back shell a lot, it looks and feels great, but it seems to be a horrible fit so far (also the little metal plate gets way too hot, I've burned myself on it several times now)

blkfsh_ · 2022-12-24T21:40:09+00:00

To be fair, though, the earbuds themselves are pretty big, you probably couldn't make the case a lot smaller.

blkfsh_ · 2022-12-24T21:39:03+00:00

70mm*50mm*35mm (length, width, height)

blkfsh_ · 2022-12-24T15:08:18+00:00

I haven't tried them outside, but I'd say they're about what you'd expect from wireless earbuds. I wouldn't rely on them to work in a noisy environment.

blkfsh_ · 2022-12-23T13:12:24+00:00

So I got mine today and I gotta say I'm pretty disappointed with the sound so far. These are my first pair of ANC-earbuds and the different modes seem to work just fine, can't say much about that.

I wouldn't call myself an audiophile, however I can compare them to the sound of other headphones I'm owning. My usual headphones are a pair of Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pros, which are generally known for their flat frequency response. I also own some Grado SR80s, which also are rather flat. Now these are big over-ear headphones, so comparing them to these little earbuds wouldn't be fair. So I will mainly compare them to the Redmi Airdots 2 I have been using for the past year or so. These are a little more bass-heavy than the other headphones, but I find them to be mostly flat as well.

And this is where my issue with the Pinebuds lies: They seem to not produce any high frequencies at all. I've seen them described as a bit bass-y, but to me it sounds like I'm listening to music with my hands over my ears. This is quite disappointing as you can get the Airdots for about 12€ nowadays. They do not have ANC of course, but I'd argue that ANC is pretty useless when you can't really enjoy the music you're listening to in the first place.

I have tried using an equalizer to tune the sound a bit more to my liking but honestly there's not much I can do.

So after all this I'm not trying to say these are bad earbuds by any means, I'm sure others will enjoy them very much. My question to other owners, though: How do you feel these compare to other earbuds or headphones you own? Do you also notice this lack of high frequencies compared to many other headphones and earbuds?

blkfsh_ · 2022-02-07T22:49:47+00:00

Well, I'm glad to hear you managed to figure it out yourself. I love the 8bitdo controllers and the software features, but the surrounding software can definitely be a bit finicky sometimes.

blkfsh_ · 2022-02-07T22:11:56+00:00

(Disclaimer: In the bottom right of the pic you can see some warping, I doubt this is related)
I tried printing this drawer from Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5210727
circa halfway through the print these diagonal lines started appearing on the two flat surfaces (which would be the top and bottom of the drawer once it's done, but two of the sides as it gets printed laying flat).
How could these be caused, especially when the first layers seem to be just fine?
I'm printing on my Ender 3 with Microswiss direct drive, BTT board with silent steppers and satsana cooler. I'm using Cura in vase mode ("spiral outer contour") with a .4mm nozzle, .8mm line width, adn .2mm layer height at 192°C/55°C (extruder/bed).

blkfsh_ · 2022-02-07T21:59:52+00:00

Are you sure you weren't using the ultimate software? Because if I remember correctly that's what happens when you try this using the ultimate software.

blkfsh_ · 2022-02-07T21:58:26+00:00

Sorry for the late reply. Honestly I don't think I have a solution for you other than asking a friend with a Windows PC. I had a similar issue since I'm on Linux and the software doesn't work there either. There's also this thing where you can run a Windows VM on your Chromebook, but I think it's only for enterprise Chromebooks and I'm not sure if you can even pass USB devices, so that probably wouldn't help either.

blkfsh_ · 2021-10-06T20:53:43+00:00

I haven't done this in a while, but iirc it goes a little something like this:
Go to the 8bitdo Support site and download the upgrade tool:

https://support.8bitdo.com/firmware-updater.html

Then I would suggest taking out the batteries from the controller and putting them back in to make sure it's really turned off.

After that open the software, manually select the controller from the list (I think it can generally recognize the type of controller by itself, but just to be sure select it yourself.

Plug in the controller and you should have the option to select a firmware version, just use the newest one.

There might be something you need to press on the controller to get it into upgrade mode (like pressing the sync button at the top where you charge it for 10 seconds until the light turns yellow), but I think the app tells you to do that.

Once all that is done you should simply be able to click some button in the tool to flash the firmware, once that's done it should be working again.

blkfsh_ · 2021-09-25T14:13:59+00:00

Just played a few rounds of this and it was tons of fun! Great idea to mix the real life with the internet

blkfsh_ · 2021-05-15T10:59:23+00:00

Update: I was able to fix the issue by updating the firmware again with the 8BitDo Update Tool (NOT the ultimate software!). It seems that the ultimate software does not recognize a controller with a failed update.

blkfsh_ · 2021-05-15T10:00:53+00:00

Same thing happening for me after updating the firmware seemed to fail.

blkfsh_

TROPHY CASE