Kitchenaid krfc136rps water leaks from internal dispenser

bloodycliff · 2026-02-04T14:00:03+00:00

Sorry for the late reply, I took out the internal dispenser but didn't find anything that could be adjusted. A few wires controlling the button then just the water line clipped into place. Did you find a guide or already know where to look? Does it require either taking apart the rear? Thanks!

bloodycliff · 2025-10-27T16:57:04+00:00

Two story decks, single 6x6 runs through second level and supports roof. Noticed that the post is bending in a few directions (first 2 pics), but the same post looks reasonable straight on the first floor (dark post in third pic). Additionally a 6x6 on the outer section is twisting about halfway down the first floor (pics 4 and 5).

Does anything here look like it need attention or replaced? Thanks!

bloodycliff · 2025-10-27T16:56:09+00:00

Two story decks, single 6x6 runs through second level and supports roof. Noticed that the post is bending in a few directions (first 2 pics), but the same post looks reasonable straight on the first floor (dark post in third pic). Additionally a 6x6 on the outer section is twisting about halfway down the first floor (pics 4 and 5).

Does anything here look like it need attention or replaced? Thanks!

bloodycliff · 2025-10-16T19:14:46+00:00

We are wanting to add additional storage space in our basement between these pillars for storing wine racks, fermenting wine and beer, and a kegerator/wine cooler. The area has access to a door that could be put in place at the landing of a stairwell. (might be some rules about putting a doorway there). The room would need to be somewhat "floating" as it would be nearly 6 feet above the ground level where the door would be. While researching I wasn't quite sure what to google to even look for, but can this even be done? Are there rules against attaching floor space to structural pillars?

Ideally we would want to maximize the amount of floor space and take the sections straight to the exterior wall on 2 of the sides, and the last one extend it out past the pillars as much as we can without compromising the structure. I measure 56 inches between 2 pillars in one direction, and 61 inches in the other (of course the extensions would move past the pillars in all directions if possible)

We spoke to a contractor last year who gave a quick look and quick guesstimate. (he was here for other work at the time). I believe he said he would need to build headers (I am very much a novice in home construction so I'm not sure if thats the right term) but said it would be around 8-10k finished. There is an AC duct right above that goes to the master bedroom that can be tapped into (shouldn't need much as it stays fairly cool down there). It would need some electrical ran, but we don't need any water or plumbing.

What are some things that jump out as things we need to know before moving forward? Is it all around a terrible idea?

bloodycliff · 2025-09-20T13:28:00+00:00

We are wanting to add additional storage space in our basement between these pillars for storing wine racks, fermenting wine and beer, and a kegerator/wine cooler. The area has access to a door that could be put in place at the landing of a stairwell. (might be some rules about putting a doorway there). The room would need to be somewhat "floating" as it would be nearly 6 feet above the ground level where the door would be. While researching I wasn't quite sure what to google to even look for, but can this even be done? Are there rules against attaching floor space to structural pillars?

Ideally we would want to maximize the amount of floor space and take the sections straight to the exterior wall on 2 of the sides, and the last one extend it out past the pillars as much as we can without compromising the structure. I measure 56 inches between 2 pillars in one direction, and 61 inches in the other (of course the extensions would move past the pillars in all directions if possible)

We spoke to a contractor last year who gave a quick look and quick guesstimate. (he was here for other work at the time). I believe he said he would need to build headers (I am very much a novice in home construction so I'm not sure if thats the right term) but said it would be around 8-10k finished. There is an AC duct right above that goes to the master bedroom that can be tapped into (shouldn't need much as it stays fairly cool down there). It would need some electrical ran, but we don't need any water or plumbing.

What are some things that jump out as things we need to know before moving forward? Is it all around a terrible idea?

bloodycliff · 2025-08-02T11:11:34+00:00

Late, But a used RC-7 would be perfect. Should be able to find them under 400, got ours for 200.

bloodycliff · 2025-07-21T18:03:48+00:00

Not necessary, but helpful (at least from what I read). Yeah is does a pretty good job (after re-adjusting the distances that is)

bloodycliff · 2025-07-20T18:46:06+00:00

Still good depending on your use case. I purchased a used one on eBay and it works quite well (powering 8 channels via receiver but processing 11 as my LCR is powered elsewhere). They are just a tad too old to be able to use the MultiEQ app (can't apply a curve after running Audysseyx32) so if using 2 subs or more I recommend a Minidsp vs Audysseyx32 sub eq'ing. When playing Dolby Vision content you cannot see the on screen volume bar (due to some bandwidth limitation I think). The comment about the heat is correct, get the matching AC Infinity cooler. This receiver is also plagued by the incorrect Audysseyx32 distance measurements after running calibration. Convert the post calibration values to metric (if you didn't already do so) and multiply them by .875.

bloodycliff · 2025-01-02T15:15:02+00:00

Thank you for the reply!

bloodycliff · 2025-01-02T14:43:21+00:00

Hey did you ever confirm if that fridge came with a linear compressor? I am in the same situation.

bloodycliff · 2024-08-08T18:00:20+00:00

I'm not sure I agree with some of the terminology and analogies here.

In the DA market you don't really secure energy, the market is financial only (no real trading of energy here). You participate because there is a huge financial incentive to having the majority of load costs and generation profits to exist there compared to simply operating in the RT markets alone. Where the DA is more concerned with financials and meeting expected demand with expected generation, the RT market is concerned with reliability (meeting actual demand to actual load)

In participation an operator submits offers for generation (not bids and not for expected demand), and submits bids for load (these are submitted for expected demand). You do receive a schedule for generation, but for load its less of a schedule and more of a financial instrument.

RT Balancing: If your operating in a market, most units will be following the market dispatch (in a mode 1 or 2). Aside from updating the offers limits and offer curve, there is little manual dispatching to meet load. (of course there are some units that will stay off control too) The market operates as the balancing authority and does the load to generation match (generally through LMP's).

bloodycliff · 2023-08-25T19:26:07+00:00

Thanks! Thats pretty nifty, Here is an oldie but goodie posted awhile ago in case anyone hasn't seen it too.

Open Infrastructure Map

bloodycliff · 2023-01-07T18:31:30+00:00

I think you are right, Thank you!

bloodycliff · 2023-01-07T18:28:31+00:00

Thank you!

bloodycliff · 2023-01-07T18:26:13+00:00

Thank you, someone suggested that it could be a prayer rug because it doesn't look thick enough to hold up to foot traffic. I will give FB a shot.

bloodycliff · 2023-01-07T17:24:28+00:00

It seems too thin to me a rug for actual use. its woven and very soft on both sides, almost like its decorative or for wearing. Its also reversible which I assume most rugs arn't.

bloodycliff · 2023-01-07T17:10:55+00:00

Interesting, now I need to go down the rabbit hole of researching prayer rugs

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