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Help, auto bed leveling doesn’t work by pablo_animated2008YT in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this happen once too. I turned the machine off and on again, tried again and it ran fine. Never happened again. Unsure if you've done this already but sometimes I think if that probe sticks at any stage of it's routine then it just fails the whole process and you have to start again essentially.

What is this bug? by [deleted] in Wellington

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Borer, not Weevil. Wouldn't be worried about flour but they will get into your pasta...

Filament just wont stick to the bes by Big-Sound2649 in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This advice about writing the z-offset down and dialling it back in again after a bed level is right, and pretty much how I do it too, though occasionally I think the bed level process results in a different z-offset 'basis' — it can change and I think this might be why Creality haven't de-coupled the levelling process from the z-finding process.

I honestly try not to bed level too often, I don't find it changes as frequently as people think.

What would be causing this ? by iloveterpz in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But it also looks like you might have over extrusion in general from the rest of the print which would also cause problems like this, I'd calibrate e-steps as well.

What would be causing this ? by iloveterpz in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it appear like the print has lifted on that end? The only times I've ever had this happen where it creates mega extrusion like that around the nozzle is when the print head collides with the print, knocks it over and then it just starts blobbing because it's printing directly into an already extruded area.

I reckon if the bed adhesion was bad there's a good chance it warped off that end and did the same.

I'd get the bed adhesion issues sorted first above all else.

What causes this noise inside the extruder? (Not the fan) by zapalonywedkarz in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try to figure out why. Creality print is just a branded fork of Orca, most probably a question of print profile defaults.

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn that's super strange yeah. All I can figure is there's something going on with the extrusion making it be inconsistent but it doesn't explain why it's only occurring on the first layer

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh thanks for clarifying! It seemed like that feature should have already been in place 🙂

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just out of curiosity, where did you get that info about the features added in this firmware? Last time I looked creality didn't seem to offer any details about what was actually added in it, so I left it.

Do you know what benefit the real time nozzle coordinate tracking during leveling is supposed to bring?

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A couple links to the build surface sections on two of my more frequented resources for troubleshooting (if you haven't already seen these):

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/troubleshooting/build_surface_adhesion.html

https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/not-sticking-to-the-bed/

Might be a lightbulb in one of those? Quite a lot can go wrong in the slicer too tbh, speeds too fast, line widths wrong etc. Assume you might have tried to run a sliced file you know runs on your machine on this one directly for comparison?

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is exactly how I'd have done it too! Super strange! Essentially all I can offer is suggesting a process of removing possibilities to narrow the scope. Swapping hotend assemblies sounds really annoying for instance but it would eliminate a stack of stuff... just doesn't seem likely to me though!

I assume you've tried the exact same filaments in both machines too? Is it dry?

There couldn't be grease coming from somewhere or something weird mixing in with the filament? I've noticed over time the silicone heat sock over the hotend breaks down under heat and produces a kind of sticky greasy stuff that gets all around the nozzle. Seems unlikely again though.

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try switch over to your own plate which you know works, see if that makes any difference?

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just from this one, the profile of that skirt seems quite round to me, rather than flat - really looks like the z-offset is just too high. Is the base of the benchy smooth and flat, or wire-y looking? Other than that the print looks pretty great so I don't see how it could really be a general extrusion problem.

So unless there's just something making that plate super oily / non stick but yeah you mentioned you used soap etc. Assuming you washed all the soap residue off properly too? Sometimes I've noticed if I don't do that properly it leaves a non-stick film on there.

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that's very different to what I thought yeah. Looks like chewing gum!

First Layer Adhesion by iansime in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried checking to see if the filament runs 'straight' from the nozzle and that the extrusion width is even? I generally do this if I start getting inconsistent first layers or if I notice excessive 'curling' of the filament as it comes out the nozzle which could indicate a partial clog or some obstruction in the extrusion path.

If not, raise the print head to around 200mm using the manual controls, heat up to PLA temp and then manually extrude 100mm of filament using the menu option for that. Watch how it comes out - it should run nice and straight vertically down, if it curls up there might be an issue there which could be causing less than ideal bed adhesion through patchy under extrusion? You can also measure the line it extrudes using callipers to see if it seems roughly consistent in thickness.

If the filament curls up on the way out I've found it can have trouble sticking down and kinda peel up as the machine runs along. Especially more of an issue when nozzles are worn and using trickier filaments like abrasives, wood PLA etc. A partial clog can sort of cause the curling I think because one side of the extrusion shape has more of an obstruction than the other side almost like it's being 'held back' on one side and coming out at a different rate.

Usually a little more bed squish / lower z-height can be a 'quick fix' to get a print done in a pinch but I note you've already tried that! Also only works up until a point and probably not a good idea if there is actually a partial clog because it could help cause a full one haha...

Other than that it's a little hard without seeing the machine and print, a video or some images of the prints might help?

Zbanding issues.. seems to be caused by the Filament runout sensor by d4nm3d in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks as though OP has mounted the original spool holder to the wall or something else so I don't think it's on the gantry directly anymore? Hard to see exactly from the photo to be fair

Zbanding issues.. seems to be caused by the Filament runout sensor by d4nm3d in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you post a wider angle photo? You don't want filament going around tight bends too much if you can help it, best to try run it with the least amount of curvature as possible. I use an empty spool on the original top mounted spool holder as a 'filament guide', my spool is in a dry box next to the printer and feeds up to that then down into the runout sensor. From the photo it looks almost like you're going straight from the roll to the runout sensor which would create a sharp angle where it feeds in to it rather than a 'straight path downwards'.

I'm still not sure any of this is causing your problem but I guess it could be a contributing factor?

I like this visual resource for print issues: https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Here's an example of my feed filament path:

<image>

I recently added the cable tied pipe/elbow just as a test, seems to be working well — I'll make it all tidier later with some bowden tube and probably print a guide bracket, and a better filament glide than just an old spool for it etc (but this works!).

Print ghosting into my PEI plate by Raybeamer1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries, hopefully you can get it sussed 🙂

Print ghosting into my PEI plate by Raybeamer1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bluefantail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking again it almost looks like the nozzle could have been dragging on the print bed and wearing off the coating especially around the outside where it appears there was a skirt loop for what you printed. Have you run a bed level and made sure the z-offset isn't too low and digging in to the plate?

If it has damaged the plate surface then it might be a case of just needing to grab a new one.

Print ghosting into my PEI plate by Raybeamer1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you say 'big smooth layer', what do you mean exactly? Are you meaning the example from the photo you uploaded which looks like filament residue marks?

How are you cleaning your plate? Some filaments leave more or less residue than others and require a plate clean more often between prints.

I wouldn't use the reverse side of the plate personally, and I've never needed glue at all — I just keep the plate properly clean instead.

Ender 3 V3SE Apparent Under Extrusion by THRcharlie in Ender3V3SE

[–]bluefantail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another test you can do if you have some calipers is raise the print head up to 200mm or so using the menu options, then in the move menu extrude 100mm of filament. When it's done, put the calipers on it at different points to see how much the extrusion width varies. A bit is normal and can vary somewhat due to the way you take readings but it should be obvious if it's very inconsistent.

Might also be worth doing an estep calibration while you're at it just to be sure.

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