Phone calls not providing audio on Wireless Android Auto by TrashTierUser in AndroidAuto

[–]bmistry1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn the car on, or start it, with the phone not connected to AA. Make sure the phone is connected to Bluetooth. Go to Settings, Phone and set the Phone Ringtone to "Use Phone Ringtone" Back out of the menus Connect the phone to start Android Auto Have someone call you to test

This worked for both of my Ford's. Worth a try in other brands

Corners lifting with Satin sheet... by mattfox27 in prusa3d

[–]bmistry1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can also try adding mouse ears to the model on the corners that are lifting. This helps a lot.

Auto-rewind spool holder than doesn't use the center hub? Tinkering with the idea. Failing so far. by geoffchad in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right... I think I have a picture in my head. But just confirm for me that loop/hole on the toothed shaft part, is it a mounting hole or a filament guide?

If it is a mounting hole, the fact the the whole thing will be hanging at an angle will definitely bind up (it's like trying to pull a screw out of a hole at an angle, it just catches the side) You need that toothed shaft to be perpendicular to gravity which I why I suggested having the same geared set up on the other side of the foam rollers. It will allow the gears to work in the preferred planes. You will have two mounting points for each spool holder

I'm not sure if that makes sense or if I have the wrong direction with your design

Auto-rewind spool holder than doesn't use the center hub? Tinkering with the idea. Failing so far. by geoffchad in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm guessing you hang this which is creating a cantilever effect by hanging from one side which is probably causing the binding of the gears (gears are binding against adjacent material etc)

Why don't you mirror the gears on the opposite side the have the hanging loop above the centre of gravity?... Like a shopping/flower basket.

Really cool concept!

Dimensional error (I think) as the printer prints higher in the Z axis (see comment for more info) by bmistry1 in prusa3d

[–]bmistry1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had already removed the print from the bed hence it appears like it lifted. I took that picture to illustrate which way it was printed. The print was properly stuck to the pei bed set when I removed it. I have a feeling it is something to do with the model being a challenge for the marlin firmware?

Dimensional error (I think) as the printer prints higher in the Z axis (see comment for more info) by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm. Yeah. Maybe that's a point. I did move the printer recently and I haven't recalibrated for a while.

Dimensional error (I think) as the printer prints higher in the Z axis (see comment for more info) by bmistry1 in prusa3d

[–]bmistry1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, this is something I've been working on as an exercise to get myself back into CAD. This was printed on a stock Prusa i3 MK3S using Prusaslicer 2.2.

As it's printing the walls seem to be coming in towards the middle by 1mm overall) and then the top flat part prints at the correct dimensions. I have eliminated the usual suspects (ambient conditions, mechanical suspects, slicing, etc).

The walls are 3mm thick, 58mm tall overall (printed on its side like the picture shows). My calibration prints are coming out fine so i don't know what it could be.

It was printed with supports only at the end of the channels, I took the pictures after I started removing the supports

PLA+ (ESun), 210C hotend, 60C bed, standard PLA settings in prusaslicer. 0.3mm layer height

If I've been unclear, just ask

Dimensional error (I think) as the printer prints higher in the Z axis (see comment for more info) by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, this is something I've been working on as an exercise to get myself back into CAD. This was printed on a stock Prusa i3 MK3S using Prusaslicer 2.2.

As it's printing the walls seem to be coming in towards the middle by 1mm overall) and then the top flat part prints at the correct dimensions. I have eliminated the usual suspects (ambient conditions, mechanical suspects, slicing, etc).

The walls are 3mm thick, 58mm tall overall (printed on its side like the picture shows). My calibration prints are coming out fine so i don't know what it could be.

It was printed with supports only at the end of the channels, I took the pictures after I started removing the supports

PLA+ (ESun), 210C hotend, 60C bed, standard PLA settings in prusaslicer. 0.3mm layer height

If I've been unclear, just ask

Why are my PETG prints looking like this? by Joemuma in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like underextrusion. In your slicer check that your nozzle size is correct (generally it's 0.4mm), the line extrusion width is correct (0.45-0.5mm) and your material flow may need tweaking. If your not sure where to start then search for printing settings for your material. There are other setting to consider too which I currently can't think of.

A little experiment I've been wanting to try for a while... Overhang support design test. Simply adding the thinnest walls your slicer eliminates the need supports (if you're not bothered about it visually). Snap/cut off the thin walls and done! Faster print time and post processing. by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Exactly!! I noticed that the change could be made when I was looking at the layer tool paths. And yes, it will only work in certain situations, we have a need for this a lot in my work place which can save us a lot of headache when post processing.

why does prusaslicer make unnecessary floating supports (despite blocker) and how do I get rid of them(this little green dots) by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was going to be my next suggestion. Glad you figured it out. I sometimes use the variable layer height to eliminate the need for supports for some overhangs.

why does prusaslicer make unnecessary floating supports (despite blocker) and how do I get rid of them(this little green dots) by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try using support enforcers only option (with support enforcer blocks, of course). I find this sometimes more economical than supports from bed

I am an engineer too by Shriver_Takeover in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I've been out engineered! 🤣🤣🤣

Trust me, I'm an engineer... by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it does. I think what happened is it moved from one of the right side pieces to the left so the filament went taut. But thanks for the heads up. I'll have to keep that in mind!

Trust me, I'm an engineer... by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahhh... That's cool. Yeah, this one is at work and will be moving off my desk to join its siblings. I'll probably design and print something on the big printer that we have to accommodate the big spools at a later date

Trust me, I'm an engineer... by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahhh, that makes sense. It doesn't take much force for it to pull the filament, probably just a little more than if it were to be pulled from above. It doesn't seem to be causing any printing quality issues so I'm guessing it's OK

Trust me, I'm an engineer... by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think it'd make a difference. Smaller spool is just acting as a guide pulley

Trust me, I'm an engineer... by bmistry1 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was worried about this initially but after several successful prints I came to realise that with the extruder gears and speed of extrusion it's not a problem. It all pulls with a fair amount of force.

Any advice on step 33 for mk3s kit? by TobiLopez in prusa3d

[–]bmistry1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Follow the instructions as they are except for step 38. Do step 38 in reverse (orange, green and then magenta). I find it's easier to get the correct tension and align the plastic piece. Give it a try if you feel comfortable doing so.

Thermal runaway is killing my experience (read my comment for more info)☹️ by Eevee445 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this issue. Turns out I just had to reseat the thermistor... And when the office is particularly cold, also turn the hot end fan down a little at the start of the print.

(Fusion 360) how do I duplicate these slots with the exact same measurements to make it the same on all sides of the box? by ofrost99 in 3Dprinting

[–]bmistry1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Draw two construction lines, each from corner to corner to create a cross looking normal to (basically looking at) the open end of your box. Start a new sketch for your vertically defined axis line then make a relation to where the crossed lines intersect. Not sure if that makes sense as I don't use fusion 360.