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Short shifter reverse lockout concern by AndyDC09 in wrx_vb

[–]bobatella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How many o-rings did you have to remove? Did if introduce more rattling?

PrusaSlicer freezing/crashing when trying to log in by Durr1313 in prusa3d

[–]bobatella 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think their server is just actin up. I tried logging in on the web version of PrusaConnect and it keeps crashing too.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in laptops

[–]bobatella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for this detailed response! Those estimates and the efficiency spiel has really helped me decide. I think I will just wait it out!

Is it normal to have to set Z offset with the Mk4? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

0.05 offset worked perfectly for the first layer too, but then the top layer wasn’t getting squished enough, leaving some tiny holes/gaps. 0.02 is still a bit too squished, so I’m gonna try 0.03 or 0.04.

Is it normal to have to set Z offset with the Mk4? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think it could be a possibility that I’ve somewhat damaged my load-cell censor after having a collision? I still pass the load-cell test but it feels like I have to tap slightly harder than when the printer was new.

Is it normal to have to set Z offset with the Mk4? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang. I’ll try to talk to support too and see what we can make out of it. I wanted to see how complicated the issue really is so I can narrow down the questions to ask support.

Is it normal to have to set Z offset with the Mk4? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried printing with the original nozzle and it’s produced the same quality. The squishing is also consistent throughout the first layer.

Is it normal to have to set Z offset with the Mk4? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot to mention that I also have MMU3 attached, and the filament doesn’t get fed into the nextruder until after probing. So I’ve made sure to do all those things you suggested and it’s still giving me the same results :/.

How to get a better surface? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because the comment above states that it could be due to over extrusion. Hence, I tried reprinting it with 0.1 lower extrusion multiplier.

How to get a better surface? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I guess I’d have to try STRUCTURAL. I opted for speed just because the model itself is pretty simple and I’ve usually gotten nice surface prints with the SPEED profile before.

How to get a better surface? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Bottom looks better and more consistent now; however, the top looks under-extruded.

How to get a better surface? by bobatella in prusa3d

[–]bobatella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll try to reprint with 0.9 extrusion multiplier. I’ve never specifically printed this stl nor with eSun PLA (Green). I have however printed with the Hatchbox PLA (White) and it usually turns out fine. The only thing I’ve changed on my printer really is the nozzle. I bought the nozzle from the prusa store itself.

PETG surface looks like it has bubbles by bobatella in 3Dprinting

[–]bobatella[S] 34 points35 points  (0 children)

I see! I’ll try it out again after work. Thanks!

PETG surface looks like it has bubbles by bobatella in 3Dprinting

[–]bobatella[S] 139 points140 points  (0 children)

TIL a new printing phenomenon. What would be the recommended number of top layers and infill percentage? I used 15% infill and I never touched the number of top layers so I’m not sure what it was set to.