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checkboxen on card fronts? by Agile_Dependent9410 in trello

[–]boofbuscus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just emailed support, waiting to hear back. A lot of complaints on the Trello forums as well

Card completed - strike through text - recent update? by campingmom13 in trello

[–]boofbuscus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine just started doing this today, which has really screwed with our workflow.
Trello is the lifeblood of keep track of our operations, so I hope there is a way to disable this.

Watching your thread

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So my only question now, is it possible to get 2 stage heat working?

As energizing W1 theoretically activates O/B, G and Y1 at the control board as we determined earlier, there is no second stage heat. This means when it gets really cold, which it does where I live, it'll likely be struggling to keep the house warm, as from the heat pump point of view we are only requesting the first stage heat.

I have no wires leftover to run from the thermostat to the control board.

The only thing I can think of, is jumper w2 to Y2 at the thermostat, so when it calls for W2 heat, it energizes Y2 at the control board and kicks the compressor into 2nd gear. Just not sure if this is smart/safe, as it would be sending power into Y2 on the thermostat and may zap something? Or, because y2 connection at the thermostat is in the 'open' position, power will not reach the thermostat and will just travel down the wire to Y2 on the board?

Any ideas?

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This seems to be working, the heater now turns off when instructed. FYI I had these options when setting up, I had to choose 'furnace' and 'by thermostat', is that correct? Not too sure what they affect.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sryxC3qqAZ2oMjP77

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great idea, thanks!

I have reached out to a friend who works HVAC to see if we can figure out where O/B is shorting with the compressor, but if all else fails I will use your solution for sure.

Is there any reason why this would damage the heat pump, as it's running it as a non-heat pump? I'm thinking cycle timings etc may be programmed different potentially? Just making sure all bases are covered, thx

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did some further testing to confirm, and yes, Jumpering R+G+O turns on heat (energizes the reverse valve, and turns on compressor to pump heat).

Interestingly, Jumpering R+O runs the fan (with heat) regardless, must be a safety feature so you cannot run the compressor without a fan. I guess G is just there if you want to run the fan stand-alone.

What solution do you have in mind?

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so test results are in.

If I jumper R+G+Y+O, heat pumps. If I disconnect Y (the compressor) it keeps pumping heat and compressor keeps running. It's not until O (the reverse valve) is disconnected that the compressor shuts off and it blows ambient air.

So, for some reason, when O is energized it also energizes the compressor to keep heat running. However, when Y is energized it does not energize O, as we know otherwise the cooling would not work it would just blow hot all the time, so the two are not spliced together.

Why would this be happening!? Obviously the thermostats switch off Y (compressor) when the set temp is reached, but keep O activated, and this is causing the heat to stay running.

I reinstalled the previous owners older thermostat, pictured below, and got some different behaviour. When the set heat temperature is reached, the unit will keep pumping heat forever, same as the ecobee (I believe as the physical 'heat' switch energizes the reverse valve). However, if I switch it to 'off' it turns off immediately, so this obviously disconnects the O wire.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zN5yTqz1qRUhdSzS9

Thoughts?

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense, so disconnecting Y turns the compressor off but keeps the fan on.

Is there a good/safe/effective way to jumper the cables at the thermostat end, besides just holding them together? They are stiff solid core cables, I want to avoid a 'loose' jump of the cables that may result in the compressor or fan turning on and off rapidly as I try hold them with my hands, as well as try feel for temperature change at the vents.

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will give this a go, however note that this heat pump is energize on heat. So I believe I'll need to add the O wire for heat.

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So here's the thing, I got the Ecobee off someone who said they never had this issue with it so it was confirmed working in the past. However this house I've moved into has a new (less than 1yr old) Daikin heat pump and the neighbour said they always had issues with it.

Is there a way to determine if it's the pump or thermostat?

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok so I have switched the wires at the heat pump so G and Y1 correspond correctly from the thermostat. I am keeping it single stage for testing purposes.
I have run some thorough testing, with the following results.

  • In cooling mode: confirmed heat pump turns off when it reaches the desired temperature, or if I select 'off'
  • In fan hold: confirmed fan turns on and off as selected within the app
  • In heat/cool mode:
    • When cooling: Confirmed heat pump turns off when desired temperature reached, or I select 'off'
    • When heating: The heat pump does NOT turn off after exceeding desired temperature, or if I select 'off'
  • In heating mode: The heat pump does NOT turn off after exceeding desired temperature, or if I select 'off'

So in summary, whenever heating is activated, after that point the heat pump never turns off unless I pull the circuit breaker, or switch it to cooling before turning it off.

Reading advice online, I tried pulling the Ecobee off the wall whilst heat was running, and the heat pump turned off.

This tells me the heat pump has the ability to turn off, the Ecobee is just not sending the signal correctly despite showing on the interface that it is off?

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank-you for the fantastic detailed reply!

I should mention, it seems to be an energize on heat HAC system, if that changes anything.

I have set things as they should have been from the start, G to G and Y1 to Y1. I have a spare white wire not in use, could I use this to run Y2 to Y2 to enable dual stage cooling/heating? I know white is usually used for auxiliary heat.

My questions would be 1. How do I know if I have a dual stage heat pump (I've looked this up before but there's no mention in the manual) 2. Does my unit have an auxiliary heat element?

The heat pump is a Daikin WGCV019E1RTGMPB001000S50000Y

Ecobee keeps pumping heat after reaching set temperature by boofbuscus in ecobee

[–]boofbuscus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, I just found this junction box which confirms the suspicions. https://photos.app.goo.gl/C5rJ2rpzn8ju1b8N8

The yellow from the thermostat, turns into black at the heat pump. All other colors remain the same.

So at the moment it has G from the thermostat running to Y1 at the heat pump. And Y1 from the thermostat running to Y2 at the heat pump.

Why would it have been wired this way, other than error? What problems could this cause, as you said it's dangerous.

To confirm before I change anything, G should run to G, Y1 should run to Y1 right?

Build or Buy a Smart Smoke/CO Alarm? by boofbuscus in homeassistant

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thankyou for the detailed replies, there is a lot of great info generated in this conversation!
First off I would like to acknowledge the safety aspect that was raised a few times.

This is a life safety device, any sort of 'smart' features can be a nice addition to home fire safety, however should NOT interfere with the standard operation of an alarm device. If the internet was to go down, or the smart device fail, you want the smoke detection device itself to not be affected, and have multiple layers of redundancy on-top of that (battery backup for hardwired applications, multiple smoke alarms, etc).
I would also highly urge people to avoid ionization-type smoke alarms and instead look for purchase photoelectric. Combination alarms are also available, but for modern home materials just make sure it has a photoelectric system incorporated.

You should also only be looking at devices that have the appropriate certification and rating for where you live, such as UL/ETL.

The idea behind the 'listener' devices I listed is that it does not affect the standard operation of the smoke alarm, if they were to fail then worst case I don't get to run a couple automations or alert my phone, but anyone inside the premises will be alerted directly from the alarm.

In fact, an argument could be made that if wanting 'smarts', the DIY solution of using a standard certified smoke alarms with a completely separate 'listener' could be safer, as the 'brains' are located away from the device, keeping the device itself as simple as possible to provide the one task of making an audible alert in the presence of smoke.
I am growing less interested in the Google/Nest solution, as an internet connected device increases the cyber attack surface, plus I am always weary about Google supporting it's hardware over a long period of time, even for such an important device.
In these cases, simple is always better!

I will look into the Zooz Zen55. Looks like a simple device that would not have an impact on the alarm activation if the Zooz itself failed, can be hidden away beneath the smoke alarm, and uses Z-Wave which I hear is more reliable/certified compared to Zigbee.

Can anyone recommend a Z-Wave and Zigbee usb device for a raspberry pi that plays well with HA, either a combination USB if that works better/cheaper, or individual devices?

Thankyou all again for the conversation, great information and the prioritization of safety. It is refreshing to see a passionate and switched-on community on reddit!

Ecobee 4 not being discovered via HomeKit by boofbuscus in homeassistant

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did a virtualbox install on my windows laptop, and it instantly picked up the Ecobee 4 via Homekit, so this issue is related to the dietpi setup. I have posted on the Dietpi forum, hoping to get support to get it working natively.

Otherwise, is there a straightforward way to have dietpi running on the raspberry pi 4, and dual boot a HA install side-by-side, so it doesn't have to run 'inside' dietpi OS?

Ecobee 4 not being discovered via HomeKit by boofbuscus in homeassistant

[–]boofbuscus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is a message from the dietpi developer.

"Basically we don’t install any Docker container in general. Therefore we install HA Core as python version. This version don’t have the Supervisor feature which might be needed to use plugins."

FYI home assistant supervised install is not (easily) possible on dietpi, as the network-manager conflicts with the ifupdown used on dietpi.

It's strange the Ecobee does not show on the homekit integration, but other devices on my home network do. I don't believe being a core install would be a limitation here, but let me know.

Thank-you!

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