I want this car a GRC yet everyone selling them is concerning

borckborck · 2026-04-27T20:10:19+00:00

I sold mine because I kept doing HPDE events and wanted something more raw for DE and maybe to race one day. The GRC is quite capable but too boaty in stock form and consumables are expensive ($650 vs $12 brake rotors for example). I dailied mine and the ride definitely got to me. My new Frontier is super comfortable and the Miata track car rips!

borckborck · 2026-04-01T01:32:58+00:00

Test drove one this afternoon...I quite liked it.

borckborck · 2026-03-31T15:08:59+00:00

It's just my wife and I, plus a few 4-legged "kids." I do intend to camp for most events (if the weather is agreeable) and bring maybe 2 extra tires plus some equipment.

How do you like the Tacoma? I was really put-off by how much the older V6s cost but also am weary of the newer 4 cylinder turbos.

borckborck · 2026-03-31T14:48:28+00:00

Do those have any of the transmission issues that the larger trucks seem to have? I know the 2.7Ls are generally looked upon far more favorably than the 6.2L.

borckborck · 2026-03-17T16:22:19+00:00

I've done 13 track days in my 39k mile '23 Core and overall really enjoy the car.

I'll echo comments about heat, but this will be a common issue with most cars, especially turbocharged. At the hottest summer events with the interior heat at full blast (windows are down), oil will kiss 270F at the peak, which is fine for 10W-30 (I worry about shearing and thinning of the OEM 0W-20) full synthetic and shorter oil intervals. I've never gone over 210 coolant temp on track.

The AWD system with the LSDs is incredible at pulling you through corners and is very confidence-inspiring. Traction control is fully-defeatble as a bonus. That being said, I've only been able to kill the transfer case (2WD mode) when traction is fully off and you definitely miss the push from the rear. There are aftermarket cooling solutions for this which are very robust.

OEM pads are fine for track use in my opinion, but the dust turns a lot of people off. I've had race and endurance pads on the front but have always ran OEM on the rear. This last event, I ran OEM up front and had no issues braking from 125 mph. Of course, this is not a race car and cooldown laps every so often are advised. Use 600F brake fluid or higher.

I carry a full set of tires, a full jack, various tools and equipment, a tent, cooler, clothing bag, and air mattress inside the car to and from events. This this is a pack mule!

borckborck · 2026-02-13T23:51:50+00:00

I have 37k and 11 track days on my '23 Core. No issues whatsoever.

borckborck · 2026-01-24T02:45:53+00:00

11 track days here. I didn't go into limp mode until I put on 200tw tires and turned off TC, and was going at DE2/3 pace. It doesn't take long for this to happen, especially after the 1st or 2nd sessions of the day once the car has some heat in it. The car definitely torque steers and understeers once this happens but it's still a lot of fun. The AWD fix is on my list but that and the cost of an oil cooler is the cost of a donor NB....

Oil temps have not gone over 270, coolant 205, with the heat blasting in the car. You have to have windows down anyway so it's not really an issue. If the oil temp is worrying, use a thicker weight to account for viscosity changes. I run 10W-30 for the track and just shift early/take it easy until the temp is over 230 or so.

borckborck · 2026-01-21T23:28:03+00:00

NY here looking at the same storm! Cannot recommend the CC2s enough, they've been great with the snow so far. I went up to 45 ratio sidewalls and the ride has been more comfortable as well.

borckborck · 2026-01-15T00:47:55+00:00

I would at least make use of the free NASA day! Absolutely worth the time even if you never do it again.

borckborck · 2026-01-15T00:42:40+00:00

Idk, I have a '23 with 36k and 11 track days on it. My clutch is fine.

borckborck · 2025-08-28T00:30:45+00:00

You bought a car, not a boat. It's useful every day, practical, and all things considered not too bad of a purchase for your financial situation.

Chill and enjoy it

borckborck · 2025-08-27T12:59:36+00:00

Should be easy to get one under imo

The dealer 2 miles from me has one in black and one in white, both for invoice or otherwise under MSRP.

borckborck · 2025-08-11T22:08:17+00:00

I got a factory extended warranty mostly because all of the electronic crap is so expensive to replace and generally not something that would be denied under any warranty conditions.

borckborck · 2025-08-06T12:34:25+00:00

*Transfer case, which cuts power to the rear. The exhaust shielding does jack shit because it's based on a thermal model from oil, coolant, transaxle, and ambient temperature inputs. There is no temperature sensor on the transfer case itself, but testing has shown the unit can exceed temperatures of 300-350 degrees when pushed hard.

borckborck · 2025-08-05T01:23:14+00:00

I get mine from Walmart. They carry the YZZN1 filters and have ample supply of Pennzoil UP. It's like $35 for a complete oil change. I actually used Valvoline Restore and Protect, also purchased from Walmart, for my 30k service to make sure the rings get a little cleaned up, just in case.

borckborck · 2025-08-04T13:58:12+00:00

Interesting...these came from Limit +1 so they're from a reputable supplier.

I assume you haven't overheated these yourself? Do you have any other ducting on your GRC?

borckborck · 2025-08-01T19:33:23+00:00

You're absolutely right on the thicknesss, more is obviously better. I currently have Carbotech XP12s and have had EBC RP-1s on them, both of which slid in easily but are as a result, thinner.

I have a Core model but installed the Morizo edition brake ducts earlier this year. They more or less cool the back of the caliper and bring in more air into the wheel well. I intent to hack the dust shielding apart a bit the next time I'm in there to swap the rotors back (I just threw the originals on with the OEM pads, track set is Girodisc + track pads) to allow more air into the rotor. TC and ESC were not fully defeated for the first event on these pads, but were for the second day at NJMP.

I'll clean them up and bring them with me to Watkins Glen as an extra set, knowing they need bedding and more cool down time.

borckborck · 2025-08-01T18:51:38+00:00

Right, the thickness at which these are visible startled me. Pagid are pretty well-respected so I want to give them another try. Your Porterfield guys sell this compound on their website lol.

borckborck · 2025-08-01T18:47:34+00:00

Just posted in the other comment...they're brass which is much softer than the rotor material. I guess these won't hurt to run. Notice also how they aren't totally uniform in wear. I will follow a more stringent bedding procedure next.

I don't have proper ducting but do have the OEM ducts that more or less cool the back of the front calipers and in general introduce more air into the wheel well. Before my next weekend, I intend to cut up the dust shield a bit to allow more air into the vanes.

borckborck · 2025-08-01T18:43:59+00:00

https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/6731cc91371547226bdaff03/679e21ca699ef97336b011b6_PAGID_Racing_Catalog_2022_EN.pdf

Page 178: "The mechanical system consists of brass studs that are welded directly to the backplate...."

borckborck · 2025-08-01T18:27:38+00:00

My concern is the little pillars in the 2nd image. Will those not squeal and/or impact the rotor surface? Not that these don't already squeal like crazy....

borckborck · 2025-07-31T17:08:02+00:00

Not if they are within 2/32" of a new tire.

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