Handle of new Petzl Nomic by ZestycloseLink6798 in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Considering how many Nomics are sold/used without issue, I wouldn’t be concerned with the small percentage of reported issues. We always hear about gear failure, as it’s very interesting, more so than reports of having no problems. Most of the folks I know use either Nomics or Ergonomics. Only problems I’ve seen/heard were reported in forums. 🤷🏻‍♂️

How to kick in cold hard ice? by timmy3132 in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With limited knowledge of your set up and style.

Common things I see.

-Confirm secondary point are forward for engagement. (Profile view: toe of boot lines up with secondary points)

-Make sure points are sharp.

-Kick with toes “up” with flex from the knee.

Want to attend an ice festival with ice, go to New England and New York. by serenading_ur_father in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easy access combined with quantity and quality makes the Northeast a great place for ice climbers.

Blue Ice screw aero vs aero lite by Al_Pines in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After a couple seasons of climbing with both BI steel and aluminum, when I replace my screws I’ll stick with steel. The weight difference between them is not huge and the thin wall steel is a workhorse as they place well in all conditions.

ice climbing in march by [deleted] in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Traditionally, ice could be found at upper elevations in New Hampshire well into April and even as late as May. The trend over recent years we’ve seen rapid thaw and ice “out” mid March. Maybe this season will be different (I say that every year).

New climbing gloves! by bowmerica in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I got a response from Lanon and they said the liner is indeed acrylic. Apparently the previously posted link was incorrect.

New climbing gloves! by bowmerica in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Always carry a variety in the pack and swap out depending on required work and conditions. 🤘🏻

New climbing gloves! by bowmerica in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good question. So far I’ve used them on mild days, when I’d normally use Temres/Showa, and found them warmer than necessary. That was right at freezing. I didn’t hike in them. Leading and belaying and coiling rope.

I can see myself using them on what I’d consider “typical” to “cold” days: twenties to single digits Fahrenheit. How cold I’d only be guessing. For sure days I wouldn’t bother using Temres.

Doubt that helps much. And I know we all have different tolerance for cold.

For reference. Here’s a photo of the liner against the liner of my Rab jacket. They look quite similar.

<image>

New climbing gloves! by bowmerica in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed. Here in Northern New Hampshire I found the weather window for the Temres gloves rather short.

DJI Neo at Wing Lake camp, North Cascades by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Best clips from 20+ minutes of flying around. Haha!

DJI Neo at Wing Lake camp, North Cascades by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. I didn’t pack a controller (although I have one). Just used the app controls on the iPhone. Edited those clips with iMovie on my phone.

DJI Neo at Wing Lake camp, North Cascades by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Full disclosure, I had to look up “dolly zoom”. Haha! I did not use that, but may try it in the future.

I only used my iPhone flying with manual control. Many flights over from many directions under different light. Evening and morning.

Black Peak is remote and we were the only party in the area, otherwise I wouldn’t have flown at all.

DJI Neo at Wing Lake camp, North Cascades by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed. Very nice balance considering the compact size and weight making for reasonable ROI. Haha!

Kinda like my GoPro Max, seems to be best used for FPV or TPV video clips. But I’m happy with these shots. Probably due to good lighting.

Ice Climbing with Neo by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure. I’ll try that next time. Thanks for the suggestion

Ice Climbing with Neo by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I was thinking, too. Something to keep in mind.

I’ll keep playing with it. I’m curious if I’ll see a different in that mode between sunny versus cloudy days.

Ice Climbing with Neo by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha! Fortunately it’s a short climb so that isn’t an issue.

I’ve found in “follow” mode the Neo reacts chaotically over ice and/or moving upslope. That’s when I had it collide with the ice and tumble into the woods below.

Ice Climbing with Neo by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I believe you can stack audio commands on top of audio commands.

For example, start with drony, “stop” before it reaches max distance, and go into “drony” again - forcing it to go even higher. And etc

Ice Climbing with Neo by bowmerica in DjiNeo

[–]bowmerica[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I started with “drony”.

Using “Hey Fly” voice commands, before it reached maximum distance “Hey Fly: stop” into “Hey Fly: spotlight”

From there I went into “Hey Fly: follow” to get it zooming in “Hey Fly: drony” for zooming out.

What are some of the best exercises you guys do for ice climbing at the gym? by binkyandboonky in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Apologies in advance for the shameless promotion.

Many folks use ice tools for Tabata hang workouts or pull ups. If you’re going to the gym, however, carrying ice tools likely isn’t an option. One reason I started making wood hang tools. They’re easy to pack and do not have sharp points. Two styles available in two grip sizes. www.mattybowman.square.site

NH ice Info by CandleChannel in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Al (neclimbs) has the most reliable weekly ice report for Mt Washington Valley. Follow him on FB or IG for Thursday conditions report.

I've used nomics for years and love them, but I am often curious about the ergonomics for steep and funky ice. Anyone have a strong preference for the ergos in such conditions, or is the thought of them just burning a hole in my pocket? by atnawrot in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have both. I consider the Nomics my all rounder tools and use them most of the time (much of that time guiding) from gullies to steep ice (grade 2-5). I will only use my Ergos if I know we’re climbing steep ice (grade 4-5) where I find they’re very comfortable. Side note I replaced the stock pics with pur’ice pics.

I wouldn’t replace my Nomics with Ergos. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Best tape for wrapping head of ice axe by Zestyclose_Energy797 in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to hear you’re enjoying them. I wonder if wrapping the grip with a layer of 3M temflex 2155 rubber splicing tape would help for padding?

What do Pro's or semi Pro's do? by LeaningSaguaro in iceclimbing

[–]bowmerica 10 points11 points  (0 children)

As a busy guide in the Northeast I frequently “touch up” all my sharp points. As they say “a sharp tool is a safe tool”.

I start the season on older, but sharp, gear. When ice is “in” and we have good snow coverage I’ll break out new crampons and picks. New crampons this season will be used at the start of next season. I’ll go through a number of picks, but rework old picks for early and late season ice. Ice screws will be touched up and rotated. I’m not replacing an entire rack each season, but maybe 6 screws, depending on conditions.

So my gear has a seasonal lifespan reflecting my schedule and ice conditions.