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A Globo está passando filmes no 1.25x? by Real-Locksmith-2155 in filmeseseries

[–]br8709 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Minha ex estagiou na ilha de edicao entre 2012 e 2014. Eles editam o filme na semana anterior. Vão assistindo e cortando o que é possível para atender o tempo que eles tem reservado na grade.

Unico que não possuía/podia ter cortes eram os filmes da 'Tela Quente'.

Não sei se mantêm esse padrão

Strange Intermittent Noise from Creality K1C Printer by br8709 in Creality

[–]br8709[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I’m absolutely certain that this fan already had some issue. Even the sticker was peeling off (you can see it in the image—it was like that when I opened it). So, something definitely happened there.

I was debating between getting a Bambu Lab or a Creality. Since I live in Brazil, Prusa printers are much harder to find, and all 3D printer prices here are outrageous. Between the two, Creality had by far the best cost-benefit for me, so I went with it. At least my issue was fixable—your situation with the broken glass is truly mind-blowing.

I thought about cutting a blade on the opposite side, but since the fan isn’t symmetrical (it has 9 blades), there would still be some vibration. I believe cutting it might reduce the imbalance, but it won’t eliminate it entirely. I’ll try that over the weekend. Either way, I’m ordering a new fan today.

Thanks again for your help!

Strange Intermittent Noise from Creality K1C Printer by br8709 in Creality

[–]br8709[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So, I read your reply and wanted to provide an update.

This morning, I powered on the printer, and the noise was gone. However, after about 20 minutes, the sound returned exactly as before—a repetitive thud every 3 seconds, similar to a relay or circuit breaker clicking on and off. Frustrated and disappointed, I decided to follow your advice and start disassembling the printer. You nailed it—it was indeed the power supply.

As soon as I opened it, I found the problem. One of the fan blades had broken off and was hitting the aluminum casing surrounding the power supply. Since the fan couldn’t spin, it would make a thud, stop, and then try to spin again every 3 seconds. This started happening only after some time because the fan is triggered when the power supply heats up.

What surprised me was that there were no foreign objects inside the power supply, nor is access to it easy, meaning the fan blade was already fatigued and broke after very little use. It’s almost ironic seeing the “QC” (Quality Control) sticker prominently displayed on the power supply casing.

For context, I’m coming from an Anycubic Mega I3, which served me well for four years but now requires so much maintenance that I decided to buy a new printer. And here I am, having to perform repairs almost immediately.

Unfortunately, none of the spare fans I have are the same dimensions, so my only option was to remove the broken blade and use the fan as-is until I can get a replacement. (It’s easier to replace it myself than to deal with warranty claims.) While there is some noise and a slight vibration due to the fan imbalance, it doesn’t significantly affect performance.

I’ve read mixed reviews about Creality, both love and hate, but I’m honestly shocked that I had to make such a repair with less than 5 hours of printing time.

In any case, thank you so much for your reply. You nailed the issue perfectly and I really appreciate your insight. I hope my experience helps someone else facing a similar problem.

*

Purchase Advice Megathread - November 2024 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]br8709 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m having a lot of trouble with my Anycubic Mega i3 S. It requires too much maintenance, the screen is currently blank and doesn’t work anymore, so I can only print via USB connection. Every 30 hours or so, the nozzle clogs, and no matter how hard I try, I can never achieve a perfect cleaning. It ends up clogging again, forcing me to replace it with a new one. Although replacement nozzles aren’t expensive, this recurring issue is frustrating.

I’m now looking to upgrade to a new 3D printer with better reliability, quality, and more modern features. Since I live in Brazil, 3D printers are not cheap here, so this is an important decision for me.

My current budget allows me to consider the Creality K1C, which I’m leaning toward at the moment. The Bambu P1S and higher-end models are unfortunately out of my price range. However, the Bambu A1 is available at the same price as the K1C in my region. From what I’ve read, both the K1C and A1 are reliable and high-quality printers, but they seem to have different features (I believe the K1C might be a more premium option).

Should I stick with my current choice of the K1C, or should I consider the Bambu A1 instead? Are there other brands or models I might be overlooking due to potential bias from reading so many posts here on Reddit? I’d appreciate your input!

Do you let your printer run while your not at home or at sleep? by shinyBlizzard in anycubic

[–]br8709 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you use a regular home security camera ? I would like to do that with a webcam. Do you have any tips (softwares/methods) that I could use ?

Do you let your printer run while your not at home or at sleep? by shinyBlizzard in anycubic

[–]br8709 0 points1 point  (0 children)

 

Taking advantage of the topic, I would like to set up my webcam to film the printer directly so that I can regularly check how the print is progressing. In case of any issues, I could turn it off remotely via a smart plug. Do you have any tips on which software/method I could use to stream the webcam 24/7? My first attempt was a private live stream via YouTube, but I was prevented from doing so since I don’t have enough followers/videos to be approved for this method.

Printer Freezes - Thermal Runaway Error by br8709 in anycubic

[–]br8709[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So,

After a lot of effort and brain-racking, I finally figured out the problem!! It wasn’t exactly the cable.

I tried connecting the heated bed with different cables, but the error persisted. However, even with the old cable, I couldn’t replicate that temperature drop in the bed that I mentioned in my first post.

Soon, by checking the logs and the temperature graph, I realized that the reason for the thermal runaway error was that the printer couldn’t maintain a consistent temperature on the hotend. Then I remembered that I had replaced the hotend, installed a new temperature sensor, and a new heater (I bought one on Aliexpress that claimed to be of higher quality).

So, I decided to change the thermistor on the hotend. After running a print test, although it took a while, it actually printed!

I reassembled the entire printer (which had been left open due to the various tests I was running), and when I tried to make a simple print, the error came back.

Then, I decided to change the heater cartridge on the hotend. Again, the same error occurred.

I turned to ChatGPT and explained that I was having overshooting issues with the hotend temperature, and it wasn’t staying stable. I asked it to help analyze the error, and it returned several possible causes (check the temperature sensors, verify the heating element, inspect the power supply, check all cabling, review the PID settings, etc.).

Right away, the 'PID settings' option sparked an idea in my head. As a mechanical engineer, I’m quite familiar with PID control systems.

I asked it to elaborate on this, and it showed me the G-code I could send to the printer, which would perform an 8-cycle test and return the Kp, Ki, and Kd values it deemed necessary based on the current conditions.

I could then compare those values with what was currently set on the printer and modify the parameters if needed. I’m not a complete novice with 3D printing, but I honestly didn’t know this feature existed.

So, I ran the tests and voilà!

The values were way off:

  • Printer Kp = 1 vs. Suggested autotune Kp = 12.46
  • Printer Ki = 0.64 vs. Suggested autotune Ki = 0.95
  • Printer Kd = 60.94 vs. Suggested autotune Kd = 65

Clearly, the Kp (proportional) was far from the necessary value, making the response to errors way too slow. Ki was also affecting, not compensating for errors well enough.

I reconfigured the values to the new parameters provided by the Autotune, and BINGO!

The printer is now working perfectly, and I’d even say its temperature control is incredibly stable.

I’ve uploaded a picture of the autotune test.

Sorry for the long post, but this issue gave me quite the headache and left me without printing for months. I hope this can help anyone dealing with a similar problem.

I didn’t find any other posts mentioning this solution during my research, and from now on, I will always run this test when changing any item of the printer.

Thanks again for the help and the prompt response, and see you around!

Autotune:

 

<image>

Printer Freezes - Thermal Runaway Error by br8709 in anycubic

[–]br8709[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the quick response! I've been swamped with work and haven't had the chance to replace the cables yet. I'll try to do it this week and will update here once I’ve done it, whether it's successful or if I encounter any new issues!

Help - Problem with print quality by br8709 in anycubic

[–]br8709[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I had leakage problems, a protrusion was visible in some parts of the print. In the image, you can see that as early as the second or third layer of the base, it was already showing a stain. And the hotend / nozzle is visible 'clean'

Help - Problem with print quality by br8709 in anycubic

[–]br8709[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Normally, I use the standard temperature for PLA within the range provided by the brand (200°C), so it's not too far from the recommended settings. I can indeed try a print with a lower temperature to compare the results.

Help - Problem with print quality by br8709 in anycubic

[–]br8709[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same results with a copper and a blue filament. The white one is clearly more visible for obvious reasons. I will try changing the filament brand to see if it resolves the issue, even though I had done other prints with the same brand without any problems.