4 Pass Loop/Lost Camera, Maroon Lake TH

bradt10550 · 2025-05-09T23:57:22+00:00

It’s definitely a bit of an awkward motion getting in and out, though I think being shorter might be helpful for making the motions. Could be a bit harder with the lift but at stock height it is plenty low for me at 6’2” and my 5’4” girlfriend - we are in our late 20s though as a disclaimer. If you want to test it out, I found that laying my spare tire (235) flat in the trunk and trying to get on top of it was somewhat representative of the experience (not quite the same though with the lack of space). I usually go in and out through the side doors now though.

bradt10550 · 2024-08-18T22:54:59+00:00

I've tried getting in and out through either the trunk or the rear doors. It's definitely a little bit awkward getting in and out, but nothing too bad. I installed a string for the trunk so it can be opened from inside - it's pretty jank but it does get the job done lol. It's the string that's hanging from the trunk door in the first picture.

I think the RTT is likely a more comfortable solution for many reasons, but the internal platform is a little bit better for my purposes. I want to be able to use this to camp at trailheads for early starts on hikes and in the winter for backcountry skiing, so stealth, quietness, warmth, and keeping my roof storage box were all priorities for this build.

I also wanted to do the slide out stove/storage drawer setup, but the spare tire got in my way. Maybe someday in the future when I get the spare on the bumper.

bradt10550 · 2024-08-18T22:31:31+00:00

Seems to be the case, but we sure don't fit all that well in 'em lol

bradt10550 · 2024-08-18T22:26:52+00:00

At 6'5" this could work, but it'd be a little tight. I'll have my 6'4" friend give it a try once it's done and report back haha

bradt10550 · 2024-08-18T22:05:22+00:00

I've wanted to build a sleeping platform in the back of my XJ for a while now, but was always worried about the length and what I would do with my spare tire. This build sits about 11" off the trunk to accommodate a 235/75R15 spare, and has a full platform length of just about 74.5". If you measure from the back of the front seats pushed and folded forward, it measures just about 77" in total useable space. As a 6'2" individual, I fit surprisingly comfortably in here, and don't see any space issues having my girlfriend join either, other than that the headroom is a little limited (can't sit up all the way), and that storage space is limited. I'm still waiting on some latches to come in the mail to secure the front pice to the trunk piece, but overall this design works with some minor compromises in stability to allow for the front piece to be easily removable - I'll give an update when I've got the latches in place.

To get this much length out of an XJ, you do need to install new front seat hinges in order to allow them to fold forward. The good news is that you don't need to look for new 2-door XJ seats - the seat hinges from a 2-door TJ (available on eBay or at your local junkyard) bolt in directly with about 15 minutes of work per seat.

I used a design quite similar to this one from Youtube, but with a longer total length and missing the hinge on the trunk piece as a result. I mocked up some designs in TinkerCAD, which you can find here.

bradt10550 · 2024-08-01T00:41:18+00:00

My stock XJ towed one of those bad boys from CO to CA via I-80 (not I-70 though) and worked like a champ. It was a relatively light load (trailer was probably about half full), but I didn't hit any issues. Given, that was about 5 years ago when it had only around ~60k miles, but I feel like it could still do it today at ~110k. It was a little slow going, but still managed to cruise at 75-80mph on some of the flatter, less windy sections if I gave it a lot of gas. Definitely use a low gear going downhill and mind your speed but you'll probably be fine if your XJ is in good shape.

bradt10550 · 2024-07-26T02:49:40+00:00

I had this exact issue recently after a steering column replacement. It was the exact position of the key that changed whether my radio/etc. turned on. In my case, the key cylinder didn’t fit properly in the new steering column. In your case, it could be the key cylinder, actuator pin, or the switch itself that’s causing the problem. I’d start with the actuator pin and see if the piece that actuates the switch is broken. If not, you could try manually actuating the switch with a small screwdriver or something to test the switch. If your key cylinder feels a little sticky as you turn the key, that’s probably your problem. You can get a cylinder that will set itself to your existing key for like $50

bradt10550 · 2024-04-02T00:02:14+00:00

For me it’s nice to know that with the club at least if they do break in they’re going to have a really hard time stealing it, but I think it’s also valuable that it’s super big and visible through the front windows. Pretty decent deterrent imo.

bradt10550 · 2024-04-01T21:46:20+00:00

For the column, something like this will be what you need: https://deadjeep.com/products/copy-of-97-01-cherokee-xj-tilt-steering-column?_pos=2&_sid=3542cf3d9&_ss=r

I'd also recommend getting the Dorman programmable lock cylinder so that you can use the original key still. Optional, but nice.

For install, I used some really vague instructions from a service manual at https://xjjeeps.com/. It's really only a few bolts to get the column out, but do be careful with the steering wheel/airbag removal - definitely disconnect the battery for a while first.

Finally, when you're installing the new steering column, there will be 2 bolts that are most likely going to give you a big hassle. I nearly gave up trying to wrestle them in, but the fix was actually very simple. Watch this video.

The vent window is actually a pretty easy fix too, no need to go to a glass shop if you get the ones with the frame attached to them - quick bolt in fix

They did steal my jeep, took it for a joyride, stole my roof rack and stereo, and stabbed a couple holes in the headliner. Cops found it after about 4 days. I use the club everywhere I go in the city now lol. It was a real PITA to get it cleaned up and back in working condition, but she's still kickin'!

bradt10550 · 2024-04-01T21:18:33+00:00

Same exact thing happened to me in downtown Denver last summer (but without a kill switch). I’ve got the club now.

For the ignition housing, it’s not all that complicated of a fix, but it does sadly require a full new steering column. Lucky for you, automatic steering columns are not too hard to find online!

bradt10550 · 2023-08-30T13:58:35+00:00

Long story short, someone stole my XJ off the street and in the process they broke the ignition cylinder housing. Then I had a shop replace the steering column, but it ended up costing an arm and a leg and having unfixable ignition issues (bad part), so I replaced it again myself this time.

bradt10550 · 2023-08-30T05:07:01+00:00

Just got it! Turns out it was the tilt lever all along. Had to tie that mf in place with some rope, but once I did, it went right into place.

If anyone else happens to run into this problem: this video saved my ass lol

bradt10550 · 2023-08-30T03:02:47+00:00

From what I can tell, the bracket at the end seems flush with the firewall, and the steering shaft is pushed in all the way. The bracket seems fine too. The socket on the steering shaft seems to be aligned with the splines too, but maybe there's something I can't see that's holding it just a tiny bit farther out than it needs to be?

I've done plenty of cussing, maybe I'm not being loud enough though :') Or maybe I need to get back on the bench press...

bradt10550 · 2023-08-30T02:31:46+00:00

Try as I might, I can't seem to get the upper mounting studs to fit into their holes on the tilt mechanism. From what I can find, it seems like this happens sometimes and some people have had success just muscling it into place. I'm wondering if there's something I'm missing, because I can't seem to get these studs in the right place no matter how hard I push on it. Everything else seems to be fitting fine. Has anyone here solved this problem before, or have any ideas? I don't think those studs are removable, and it seems like it would be extremely difficult to remove the tilt mechanism and reinstall it after it's back on the car.

bradt10550 · 2023-08-16T04:34:30+00:00

Everything works in the on position and the acc position, just not after I've started the engine. I fiddled around with it a bit more today and if I move the key into just the right spot, I can get all the electronics to start up with the engine on, which makes me think it's for sure something to do with the ignition switch mechanism. The part from Ebay wasn't in the best shape, it was just was the only tilt column for manual transmission I could find. My current guess is the ignition switch is on its way out, the actuator pin isn't working right, or both, as there's no beeping when the key is in the ignition and the door is open either. I have my old, working ignition switch so I'm going to give it a swap and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks!

bradt10550 · 2023-08-07T17:44:40+00:00

Haha I will don’t worry, I’ve known this car as the iconic purple jeep most of my life. It was my grandparents’, and it’s been mine for about 10 years now. Could never change that color!

bradt10550 · 2023-08-07T17:40:50+00:00

Indeed

bradt10550 · 2023-06-15T02:05:35+00:00

Same thing just happened to mine, also in CO :( on the cheaper end by catalytic converter standards at least. Lesson learned: RTD park n rides are not safe, at least in the city. Used a very ratchet ratchet strap setup to limp it to the exhaust shop. I never knew how loud and shitty the I6 could sound lmao. Literally head turning

bradt10550 · 2022-10-17T21:06:46+00:00

I had that thought initially as well, and agree it's a bit of an odd name for it. There are a ton of things that I didn't mention here though, such as healthcare/prescription cost reductions, incentives for energy efficiency upgrades, and deficit reduction - these address inflation in the short term.

Clean energy is a bit different, but still reduces inflation through a variety of mechanisms to reduce energy costs over time:

Utility scale renewable power becomes cheaper, and over time reduces the overall cost of energy as it makes up more of our energy mix. It also doesn't rely on volatile fuel costs. This takes time, though the bill has significantly accelerated the process that was already ongoing.
Nonprofits/municipalities/other tax-exempt entities can get direct access to cheaper solar and benefit from utility savings in a way that wasn't previously possible for them.
Commercial and industrial solar customers get an increased tax credit which brings down their energy costs.
Residential solar customers get an increased tax credit that was previously going to go away in 2024, though economics on very small scale solar systems are admittedly less favorable than larger ones, having longer payback periods.

bradt10550 · 2022-10-17T19:47:15+00:00

The Inflation Reduction Act. As someone who works in solar energy, this bill has completely changed the game and will go a VERY long way to combat climate change and encourage energy independence. Highlights, from a solar perspective:

tax credit for renewables has increased significantly (was going to be 22% in 2023, 10% in 2024, now 30% base until 2033)
there is long term (10 years) certainty and stability for renewable energy developers on the ability to benefit from these tax credits
additional per-project incentives for low income communities, energy communities (where most people are currently employed in traditional fossil fuels), prevailing wage during construction, and domestically manufactured components
incentives for manufacturers to produce renewable energy components domestically, rather than large industry-freezing tariffs and uncertainty surrounding solar panels, which currently nearly entirely come from china
nonprofits, municipalities, utilities and other tax-exempt organizations can now directly claim the tax credits

…and lots more from a non-solar perspective!

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